Tires
 

Tires

Started by mung, January 18, 2015, 06:34:08 PM

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mung

OK, I have already taken a bashing on one of the other boards for asking this, so if you don't have anything productive to add to the conversation, don't bother.

Now that said.  I have some new to me tires and am planning to install them on the rims myself.  Steel rims on my 4104, 11R22.5 tires.  I have tire irons, I am buying one of those air tank bead seaters.  I will get an inflator with a very long hose so that I am not too close to the tire during inflation.  I will get the bead sealing juice.  Is there anything else I need or need to think of?  If you have actually done it, I would like some tips, if you are too scared to do it, or think that the high school dropout at your tire place is more talented than you and is some kind of tire god, no need to tell me that you know more than the rest of the world about round rubber things.  If you have stock in Goodyear and are upset that I am not driving your stock up, no need to reply. 

Sorry, but I am over being bashed about buying used tires and not having an OSHA certified union shop.  I am trying to learn how to do something that many have done in the past and will be something that could be useful in the future. 
Vern in Central Florida
PD-4104-772

itspaidfor

I think thats awsome! I used to change my own tires on the road cuz I owned my own trucks. You will want a sledge or maul of some sort. otherwise get-r-done! I agree we are quickly being bred into politically correct panty waists. You can also slide tire under truck or bus to cage it if that is what is bothering you.......Dan
1974 MCI MC8 740 Allison Auto
1993 Freightliner cabover 3406 B cat
2005 Gmc 2500 Hd Duramax
1987 300sdl Mercedes diesel

mung

I have an 18lb sledge to break the bead from the old one.

Thanks Dan for providing real information. 

I got replies on "other boards" not only about not having an OSHA approved cage, but that I was putting the entire Earth in danger by using take-offs as they are the root of all evil in the world today.  I am not doing any Interstate driving at this point, the plan for the next year is just local campgrounds within about 30 miles of my house and most of which on local roads.  If everything looks good the longest trip will be to Arcadia next year which is mostly back roads for me and not that far. 

Anyway, is there anything else I need?  Are there any tricks that I wouldn't be able to see watching the videos on YouTube? 
Vern in Central Florida
PD-4104-772

HB of CJ

They are not split rims are they?  FWIW, way back in high school in about 1965, Auto Shop One was required ... and Coed.  The chicks looked so cool in their red and white coveralls.

No ... wait.  Part of the class was learning how to bash, pry and convince tires to come off of and onto one piece steel wheels.  To pass, boys had to do several ... the girls just one.  

Tubes and boots also.  Also something new called a tubeless tire.  I see no reason why you could not change out your own new-to-you tires if you have done it before and know how.

Just me.  HB of CJ (old coot)

Edited by HB ... We did cheat in High School and only did car and light pickup truck tires and one piece wheels.  No heavy truck wheels as back then I do not think single piece steel wheels yet existed.  We most certainly did not do split rims.

Tubeless tires were just coming out.  We changed out both types.  Also had to watch the usual horrible accident movies.  Some girls barfed.  So did some boys.  Yuck!  We also used a widget called a ratchet type manual bead expander thread compressor.  Helped.

mung

Nope, not split rims, straight steel rims.
Vern in Central Florida
PD-4104-772

krcevs

Wow Mung I didn't realize you caught the rath for that post.
The way I have done tires in the past was to first, after removing the tire from the vehicle, was to pull the schrader valve out of the stem. Then with the tire flat on the ground walk the bead with the heels of your shoes to break the beads. Hard soled shoes work much better. repeat this on the other side. If the beads do not break then you will have to work them off. There is a type of sledge that has a curved blade to help work the beads off, but a sledge near the bead should work. Once you have the beads broken loose, you need to work on the side closest to the drop center, the section of rim that is a smaller diameter to allow the tire to move around the rim. Press one side of the tire bead that you are working on into the drop center then using the tire tool, pry bar, lift the bead over the rim all the way around. Once you have the first bead worked off the rim lift the tire up on one side to get the bead closer to the rim edge. Using a wheel chock or block of wood helps with this. Then work the lower bead off the rim until the tire comes free.
Installing the replacement tire requires the tire lube or slick soap and a little water. Apply to the beads and the sides of the tire along the bead about 3 inches up. This will help the tire slide onto the rim. Now with the tire up next to the rim flat on the ground lay the tire on the rim at an angle and using your knee press down on the outer bead area to work the inner bead onto the rim. Use your tools to complete the install of the inner bead. Then cock the tire to one side so you can stand on the tire holding down the bead with your foot on one side. From that point where the bead is below the rim use your tool to work the tire over the rim. Make sure you have the bead of the tire down into the drop center to give the tire room to move over the rim lip.
Now take your air hose and hook it to the tire stem. Stand the tire up give it a shake to side to side and usually the beads will seat and you can put air into the tire. Once the tire beads seat you should see it and may hear a pop as they seat. Stop airing the tire allow it to deflate and then reinstall your valve. Now you can air the tire to the recommended pressure.

Hope this helps and make sure you get a schrader valve tool. NAPA or any parts store should have them. Looks like a small screwdriver hollow with a notch cut into the end. Oh and careful when taking the valve out they can shoot out and you will loose them.

Good luck,

Ken
Kim and Ken Carpenter
GMC PD4107-1121
GMC PD4107=1180
Berthoud CO

"Here hold my beer!"

mung

Thanks!!! That is a very good description of what to do.  I will add the schrader valve tool to the list of items I need. 
Vern in Central Florida
PD-4104-772

Jim Eh.

If you have a sizeable compressor you can use what is called an tube deflating aspirator  Schrader-Bridgeport P/N 5262   http://www.romppais.com/Catalog/Schrader-BridgeportCatAll.pdf   (pg32).
It helps you break the bead by creating a siphon effect thru the valve stem. Quite inexpensive but work on all kinds of sizes not just heavy tires. You need a lot of reserve air in your compressor though.
Just something that makes life a little easier.
"Some days it's just not worth chewing through the restraints"
Jim Eh.
1996 MC12
6V92TA / HT741D
Winnipeg, MB.

TomC

With using 11r-22.5 on 22.5 x 8.25 rims, you probably won't have to use anything fancy to get them to bead especially since they are lightly used tires. If all fails, I've seen tire guys spray ether into the tire then throw a match onto the tire-rather explosive way to bead the tire.

Once the tires are on the bus, please run the proper tire inflation according to what your axle weights are-not the maximum on the side of the tire. You'll have much better ride and the best tire wear. Good Luck, TomC
Tom & Donna Christman. 1985 Kenworth 40ft Super C with garage. '77 AMGeneral 10240B; 8V-71TATAIC V730.

Nel

Hey Vern, My favorite source for useful info is good old YOUTUBE, there will be a bunch of guys on there showing how they did it and no its not rocket science, it worked for me on a lot of DIY stuff. Nel
4104-4519
West Nyack , NY

bevans6

Truck tires on steel wheels will have virtually no risk of doing anything stupid on install.  Breaking the bead on both sides is the hardest part, never done it, watched it being done.  The hammer they use is different from a regular sledge hammer.  Don't miss with that 18 pounder, which may be too heavy anyway, a miss can bend the rim.  Lube the rim, and I have used a big strap around the tread of the tire to help get the bead to seat.  You must have the valve out to seat the bead, it restricts air flow too much otherwise.  Good luck, my old tire guy could do those things about as fast as his young guys could do car tires on the machines.

Brian
1980 MCI MC-5C, 8V-71T from a M-110 self propelled howitzer
Allison MT-647
Tatamagouche, Nova Scotia

Tikvah

1989 MCI-102 A3
DD 6V92 Turbo, Alison
Tons of stuff to learn!
Started in Cheboygan, Michigan (near the Mackinaw Bridge).  Now home is anywhere we park
http://dave-amy.com/

Jon

This is the best bead seating tool for the dollar. I use it on all my tires. Way cheaper, easy to store and works great.

http://www.gemplers.com/product/IN225/Radial-Truck-Tire-Bead-Seater-225-245-TC-70
Jon

Current coach 2006 Prevost, Liberty conversion
Knoxville, TN

luvrbus

I just set one side of the tire to the wheel and then use a bicycle tube on the other
Life is short drink the good wine first

mung

That is a pretty cool way of doing it as well.  Hmm, now I have to decide which way to go.  The logic behind the tube type sealers is compelling and it is a bit cheaper and really cheap if I go with the bike tire.

Now for bead breaking, I do have a nice dead blow hammer.  What about that with http://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0439-Bead-Popper/dp/B001AWM0HS/ref=sr_1_14?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1421675185&sr=1-14&keywords=bead+breaker
Vern in Central Florida
PD-4104-772