replacing wheel bearing and seal - Page 4
 

replacing wheel bearing and seal

Started by David Anderson, March 05, 2019, 02:23:43 PM

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buswarrior

Read chessie closely...

Idiots posting...

Moderated forums are the only place you have half a chance.

Happy coaching!
Buswarrior
Frozen North, Greater Toronto Area
new project: 1995 MCI 102D3, Cat 3176b, Eaton Autoshift

luvrbus

People post on U-tube for the dollars manufactures post for the free advertisement dollars lol. I have this friend that generates 2 to 3000 bucks a month from U-tube and posts some really dumb things and people read it .One can find anything on the internet the good,bad and ugly   
Life is short drink the good wine first

David Anderson

I have the whole procedure in my Eagle shop manual, but the videos I've seen illustrate much of the Eagle manual very closely.  I've learned some cool tricks from some of the stuff I've watched.  They are helpful.  My reassembly specs are done from here.  This should cover my work pretty well.

http://autoam.timken.com/techseries/trb_pages/TRB%20Adjustment%20RP-618.pdf

David


oldmansax

I agree with the posts about idiots on youtube. You have to weed those out. However, there are a lot of professionals that post there as well. The one I posted appears to be a Stemco rep teaching a class to Waste Management mechanics. Hopefully, Stemco knows something about replacing seals.......

;D ;D

TOM
1995 Wanderlodge WB40 current
1985 Wanderlodge PT36
1990 Holiday Rambler
1982 Wanderlodge PT40
1972 MCI MC7

luvrbus

Bendix has some good stuff on U-tube
Life is short drink the good wine first

David Anderson

got the bogies done.  Set the slack adjusters according to the Eagle manual.  I went back with oil.  I figured since it lasted over 100k miles it's pretty good.  I'm going to wait until the soreness subsides before I attack the front axles. :o
Thanks for all your help.

David Anderson

Took the bus out for a hard run of 30 miles and 70-75mph and checked axle hub temps when I returned home.  105 on the fronts and 125 on the bogies where I put the new bearings.  Should I be concerned?

windtrader

125 psi? That seems unusually high for bus drives unless yout've got a pallet of lead in the rear.
Don F
1976 MCI/TMC MC-8 #1286
Fully converted
Bought 2017

David Anderson

Quote from: windtrader on April 15, 2019, 05:57:46 PM
125 psi? That seems unusually high for bus drives unless yout've got a pallet of lead in the rear.
125 degrees.

Those are the hub temperatures at the bearings.

eagle19952

Quote from: David Anderson on March 31, 2019, 06:24:40 PM
I haven't decided yet.  I have been searching the web for answers. 

David


Why would you ? Rockwell and Spicer, etc. have about 150 years each in design....
PS. that pin that goes thru the brake web, the one the spring hooks to, you knock it out with a punch, and you replace it.
Donald PH
1978 Model 05 Eagle w/Torsilastic Suspension,8V71 N, DD, Allison on 24.5's 12kw Kubota.

buswarrior

Re: hub temps

Continue to monitor closely.

What weights do they both carry on that bus?

Shoot the drums also, through the hand holds, record and compare.

Snug bearing or dragging shoe are your potentials, but no where big enough temp to do more than continue to watch.

If it stays there, no worries says I.

Happy coaching!
Buswarrior
Frozen North, Greater Toronto Area
new project: 1995 MCI 102D3, Cat 3176b, Eaton Autoshift

David Anderson

Ok, so I changed this in April 2019 and noticed some oil leakage on street side bogie. I thought I sealed the oil reservoir  hub securely.  I wonder what I did wrong.

luvrbus

Looks to be a lock washer seepage ,trust the gasket never use RTV silicone on those,check the vent hole in the cap to0
Life is short drink the good wine first

David Anderson

Quote from: luvrbus on August 08, 2020, 02:29:35 PM
Looks to be a lock washer seepage ,trust the gasket never use RTV silicone on those,check the vent hole in the cap to0
It made it 8000 miles. Maybe I could put some goo around the washers and seal it up

luvrbus

Quote from: David Anderson on August 09, 2020, 09:36:14 AM
It made it 8000 miles. Maybe I could put some goo around the washers and seal it up

those are OEM caps from Eagle they leak over time because the fill cap is so large too,I changed my fill caps about every 3 to 5 years to stop the seepage till I changed over to the newer Stemco cast aluminum housing and the small fill plug.if you can rotate the plug easy then you need new plugs   
Life is short drink the good wine first