Radius Rod Bushing Replacement

[solardude]

I'm not a heavy equipment breaks expert (yet) but everything appears to me to in order here. fewww.

Typically jobs like this expand in scope as things progress, so far so good for now.

I noticed a broken bolt on the hub that normally would keep the drum centered, they were all missing on this wheel. On my cars, I too have left these bolts out as they tend to seize up. What do you guys do? Should I find some bolts for the holes?

SolarDude

[chessie4905]

The bolts secure the drum to hub. If you lose the wheels from an axle, this still keeps drum on. Usually flat head screws. Used to be brass for ease of removal for brake servicing. If you replace them and the new ones are steel, use antiseize on threads for ease of removal down the road. I don't think brass is used anymore, but that is what i'd use. Either will work.

[Tom Y]

Heat cracks on drum normal, but lets see what the rest say. I put after market plastic bushings on mine and was told the rubber would give a better ride so I changed out the front to rubber. It was easy when only a month old.

[eagle19952]

i would not worry about the "centering" screws.
losing a wheel with drum will be the least of your problem.

i would clean the roller and S cam surfaces. the brakes will feel and operate mo better.

oh, and check the S cam bushings, no one ever does...

[Lee Bradley]

The screws keep the drums on in the factory; no real use after the wheels are installed.  If you want to use them and be able to remove them, install them with medium strength Loc-tite 242.

[solardude]

I was able to get the first radius rod out today without too much hassle. I was able to remove the bushings after some tribulations. Initially I tried pounding it out, without a tool with the correct size pilot I could not hit the "race" hard enough without fear of damaging the ID of the bore. So I started cutting slots in the race, I did not want to cut all the way through the race, so I cut as close as I thought possible without cutting through and damaging the bore. Then I used a chisel to knock out the small piece and the rest of the race followed easily. 2 down 14 to go. I'm sure it will get easier as I go.

Additionally almost all the studs came loose before the nuts... not sure what to do there.. Just put them back in like that, or try to get the nuts free?

SolarDude

[eagle19952]

Wouldn't a walking beam style press do this job...

We had one, but we rented/borrowed them too.

[solardude]

That looks very handy! It looks like a porta power specifically made for pushing out bushings. Neat. I have access to a porta power, my goal was not to have to build/buy anything too fancy if possible. I'm not in a rush yet... and so far mostly everything is coming apart pretty easy after a little thought. Hopefully the my luck continues.

SolarDude.

[solardude]

Well I finished the front bushings, I have started on the rear, I reassembled the left rear, but I am wondering if anyone knows how to make sure the off-set cam bushing adjuster is set correctly. I marked it before I took it all apart, but I don't see how you would ever use it to adjust anything with it as it's all so tight you would have to disassemble the parts to actually adjust anything. I had a tough time getting the cam out of the bore as it is a press fit.

Is there a measurement to double check? I looked for info related to measuring some fixed distance with no luck. Also, the pictures I could find showed a collar without the offset... strange.

item 19 is the eccentric cam I'm wondering about.

SD

[Jim Eh.]

My thoughts

Check the brake drum cracks to ensure none reach the outside edge of the drum. As stated, heat checking, as pictured, is common and not reason for rejection.

Check the drum diameter with a good drum gauge, it looks like the beginning of the s head of the cam is pretty dirty and the roller was not sitting at the starting point indicating quite a bit of drum wear considering the shoe thickness.

Clean all mating surfaces so everything sits flat to get the proper torque on the wheel nuts.

Use a mirror if you have one take a look at the back edge of the brake shoes (if you are not going to remove them completely) to check for cracks or delamination of the friction material.

That bushing tool for Friegthliner suspension pivot bushings is a almost a must for installation of the bushings in that suspension. Without a tool you would have to remove the springs and do it in a press.

I am not familiar with your bus but if it is eccentric I would suspect it is an axle alignment device. If so you would have to re-check the alignment after assembly. Never-seize is your friend.

[chessie4905]

You can leave the drum screws off if you prefer. I will reinstall mine when reinstalling drums. Helps prevent drum cocking and not allowing wheels to fully seat. Could seat later, and result in loose lug nuts.