Radius Rod Bushing Replacement

[solardude]

Hello all - I am preparing to replace all front and rear Radius Rod bushings, has anyone done this on a 102 series, if so did you use the MCI PN#12J-1-133 or a urethane aftermarket bushing?

How big of a job is this? This looks like a big job with lots of heavy lifting?? Can anyone provide any insight?

Thanks
SolarDude

[Debo]

Because I have an MCI, I can't shed any light on a 102 specifically, but I can tell you about the job. I'd say first and foremost, follow all of the warnings you're going to get about blocking the bus up securely because you're going to be crawling around under it. Make sure it's sitting on as solid a surface as you can before you start the work. It'll be much easier to get the rods back on after bushing replacement if the undercarriage doesn't move in the process.

The rods themselves are heavy. My guess is 25-45 pounds apiece. You'll most likely have to pry a couple of them off because the bushings have bonded to the metal. On mine, getting to a couple of the nuts was a challenge, but do-able. Removing the old bushings from the rods can be a challenge too. I used a couple of pry bars and an oscillating tool to cut them in strategic places. I used an air-powered needle scaler to get all of the rust off, and painted mine to prevent more rust. I know there are people who prefer the rubber bushings, but I used the urethane and they've worked out fine. I don't know that I've seen a tremendous improvement in ride quality or suspension improvement, so maybe mine didn't need it to begin with. I just felt like it was time to do them since I had no service records.

In summary, it's a very physical job compounded by the fact that things will be rusted-on, stuck, or you'll find some more things to replace while you're under there, but it's totally do-able. Just take your time and follow the service manual. Let us know how it goes!

[chessie4905]

On car forums, it has been commonly reported that body control and handling have improved, however at the expense of ride quality. When and if I do mine, I'm going with factory ones. You could call Luke and ask him of any issues to expect. He also sells the bushings.

[Dave5Cs]

For a week before soak the end nuts with Kroil 2 times a day. You will need heat like a torch or at very least a small tank flamer. These nuts don't want to move and have heard of people snapping them off and having to weld back on. the rear ones are especially hard to get to. Make sure you stabilize the front axle so when you take them off it does not move because it a bugger to get back in place if it does. Do one at a time make it a bit easier.
If you use the rubber ones lots of tire lub to get them back on. Buy a gallon of that stuff.

[buswarrior]

Just for fun, price the job?

It can be a horribly ugly, parts breaking and physically challenging adventure.

If you are up for the game, go for it!!

Happy coaching!
Buswarrior

[solardude]

OK - Well as directed I soaked the front bolts with PB tonight, I ordered the front 8 bushings to get me started from Luke. I also asked Luke how much it would cost to do the job for reference, ~ $1500 for labor if things went well, the bushings cost $36 each. So, on a non-rusty bus ~ 2k total. I also called a local bus shop in Minneapolis, they quoted 3K, presumably because everything is rusty up in Minnesota. Fortunately, my bus is a Southern bus, and is mostly rust free.

OK - so this will the first time I have lifted the bus... I surveyed the undercarriage today, I'm wondering, do I blocK up the entire front even if I'm only working on one side at a time? I see some spots to jack on the axle close to the air bag, but very limited on the carriage. I was looking for a procedure in the maintenance manual, it did not jump out at me on my mediocre review. I'm thinking jack on the axel only and block body, let axel drop some and block axel.
Let me know if I've assessed it wrong.

Additionally, this is the first time I've tried to remove the bus tires, I gave it my best shot with a three foot breaker bar, no luck. I am going to pick up the HF electric impact with 1200flbs see if that works..

P.S.
I forgot to mention urethane bushings to Luke, he did not mention them either, so my assumption is that when given the option for both, he would rather use the rubber ones. These are more work though. I guess, in my mind, if I have to do the job, I might as well do it the way it was designed.

SolarDude.

[sledhead]

I would try a 3-4 ' extension on the breaker bar but you have to support the socket extension on a jack stand or make up a wood support to hold it up . then push down on the breaker bar with all your weight . I do not think the electric gun will do it

I use a 48 " torque wrench and my hands are right at the end of the wrench . oh ya when the socket falls off the nut you will get a nice blood blister on one of your fingers when all your weight slams your hand to the floor . don't ask how I know

   

dave

[buswarrior]

6 foot cheater pipe for wheel lugs.

Why struggle?

Even the kids have a chance to participate with a long bar.

Go shopping for a good pipe that fits over the end of the breaker bar, and add a cast collar to the end,so you don't de-form the end of the pipe.

Don't use your big ratchet, you'll blow the ratchet teeth out of it. Watched that once, some people don't like to listen...

Happy coaching!
Buswarrior

[eagle19952]

i like 7 foot minimum...that way u can fully sleeve the breaker bar...

schedule 80 aluminium is nice.

[bevans6]

Not positive on a 102 but on my MCI the driver's side lugs are left hand thread.  Watch out for that.

[chessie4905]

Don't try to loosen with less than minimum 3/4 drive breaker bar, sockets and extension, where needed. 1/2 inch drive stuff is too springy. You can oil studs and seats at wheels a couple of days before attempted removal. Use a wire wheel with a drill if there is rust or corrosion on protruding threads. Carefully examine cleaned end of studs for an embossed "L". Nuts are embossed also on face. That means the threads are @$# backwards. Clockwise to loosen, counter clockwise to tighten. Should be on Driver's side of coach. Some have all normal threads on both sides, and a few may have on other side from inexperienced mechanic in past. Always clean and check. I know many have learned the hard way the first time Don't mix up with other ones

[solardude]

Well - I invested in a set of 1" drive sockets and 1" drive 4 foot breaker bar. That with an additional 5' pipe got the first wheel removed.

I have the front of the bus mostly blocked up. I was surprised by how tall I had to block up the frame to get the axel to sit at ride height 11" between upper and lower air bag plates. I will post pictures to make sure the I am not blocking it completely wrong before I start to crawl around under the bus tomorrow. It looks pretty good so far.

SolarDude.

[chessie4905]

I would go around and oil all the bolt threads or use penetrant on all bolt heads frequently on the radius rod fasteners a couple of days befor starting any removal process. Will give it ome time to soak in. Also on the bushings themselves.

[solardude]

I was able to get one of the break drums removed today, and the second wheel removed.
I was in need of a new impact wrench, I have been watching/hoping for the new Milwaukee with 1400 ft lbs to go on sale.. No luck there, so I paid full price $229 for the tool only, I tried it out on the Lug nuts, I had doubts, but, it worked! The battery powered impact was able to remove bolts that required 8+ foot breaker bar to loosen by hand. Impressive. A little spendy, but better than dragging around a air hose.

SolarDude

[solardude]

I was inspecting the break drum, I noticed it has lots of cracks... is this normal?

SolarDude