OTR Heat Keep it or Remove it? What do you recommend for heat?

[TomC]

I removed the entire over the road heating and A/C system. What was odd was the A/C evaporator was installed with some plumbing, but nothing else was installed since my transit bus was an Portland, Or bus. I removed the heater coil which is huge-6ft X 18" X 5" deep. Had it pressure tested and reinstalled it lengthwise in my hallway with 4 vents and 2- 14" radiator fans pushing the heat out. The controls are by the front seat and I can turn it on, count to 10 and feel the heat. Truly an amazing amount of heat comes out. Good Luck, TomC

[Geoff]

I removed the entire over the road heating and A/C system. What was odd was the A/C evaporator was installed with some plumbing, but nothing else was installed since my transit bus was an Portland, Or bus. I removed the heater coil which is huge-6ft X 18" X 5" deep. Had it pressure tested and reinstalled it lengthwise in my hallway with 4 vents and 2- 14" radiator fans pushing the heat out. The controls are by the front seat and I can turn it on, count to 10 and feel the heat. Truly an amazing amount of heat comes out. Good Luck, TomC

Tom, what are you doing for a defroster?

[lvmci]

Hi Andrea,the front escape hatch towards the front of it, is where i put the traditiinal roof top, down draft manual style AC unit. B &B uses the 6"  wide 1 1/2" Thick right angle ducts just as an experiment, worked so well, I kept it. In the future I will drop the ceiling and finish the duct work to deliver to the driver & passenger seats with registers, in the mean time you can open and close the registers to accommodate using the living room or driving, but the windshield area needs the most cooling , lvmci...

[TomC]

Geoff-I have a T with ball valve to shut off the big heater core. The front defroster is still hooked up and have a ball valve on that too to control the heat. Works well-practically never have to kick on the fan-just the air pressure from outside moves enough air through when heat is needed. Good Luck, TomC

[daddysgirl]

Hi Andrea,the front escape hatch towards the front of it, is where i put the traditiinal roof top, down draft manual style AC unit. B &B uses the 6"  wide 1 1/2" Thick right angle ducts just as an experiment, worked so well, I kept it. In the future I will drop the ceiling and finish the duct work to deliver to the driver & passenger seats with registers, in the mean time you can open and close the registers to accommodate using the living room or driving, but the windshield area needs the most cooling , lvmci...

That is so awesome! Thank you so much for the idea.
And just to run this thought by someone who has done it...

When I take the front ceiling down to insulate it (like the back) I will run ductwork (attached to the roof on the inside) from the existing front discharge vents over towards the front, and route ductwork from the rear discharge vent along the other side and have the outlet closer to the passenger side.

I never had a front escape hatch, but the front roof unit is already there. Also, I have just about twice the number of roof supports than most MC8's. They removed many of them when designing units built after # 31706. Maybe it was a cost issue, but I have plenty of ways to attach the vents.

Thanks again...simple and genius. 

[Scott & Heather]

Both my coaches had their OTR heat removed. Literally my biggest regret. Keep it. Trust me. On those frigid drives, you'll be sooop thankful for the free high BTU heat.


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