Rustoleum fail

[Zephod]

I'm going for inexpensive, hence the bus. Over $35 a can for paint just isn't going to happen right now. Maybe in a few years. I'll probably scrape the loose and flaked paint off, scuff whatever's underneath and slap oil based paint over it. I've got a small pot of grey Rustoleum left over so I might just use that up. In some places the Rustoleum is well attached. In others, not so. Eventually I'll repaint with better paint.

Right now my struggle has to be to do the battery carrier, the water carriers and the door lock.

I got a bargain from fastenal on 10-24 2 inch hex head galvanized bolts. 3 cents each and they have 1200lbs sheer strength. My compartment will only weigh - fully loaded - 180lbs.

Sent from my Nexus 7

[luvrbus]

 Base coat clear coat for me Mike easier to work with. Kyle, Newell hasn't used 1 coat paint since the 90's I have no idea why Blades went to base coat clear coat paint.

A friend of mine Mike Wilson spent weeks at Miami teaching the process to Newell painters

Looks like Imron lasted over 25 years on mine. 
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[eagle19952]

I have no dog in the fight, but I've used Du Pont's Delfleet Essential on three motorhomes now and have been surprised at the quality.  It is a single stage polyurethane with a catalytic hardener that is as easy to apply as sprayed Rustoleum.  It probably isn't as good as Imron but it is about 1/3 the price.  Sprayed with a HVLP gun, it dries with a glossy finish similar to a factory paint job and seems to tolerate bird poop reasonably well.  I have't tried color sanding and buffing though I'm sure you could.  Jack

you mean PPG ....

[kyle4501]

Lots of good paint for sale. Lots more bad paint out there.

One needs to define good before an answer can be given.

Then, there is the cost vs. benefit . . . . . .

At work, we use Imron for long term durability & quality. It is usually cheaper in the long run as we don't have to maintain it.

The base coat, clear coat may look the best for the least amount of work, but long term durability is an issue.

If there was a paint ( that would holdup to the automotive/ industrial environment )  that was under $35/ gal, it would not be sold that cheap very long as it would be worth so much more!.

When we have to go fast & cheap - we go to Tractor Supply & get some Majic Catalyst Hardener ( 1/2 pint ~ $15 ) & add the appropriate amount to rustoleum. It speeds up dry time & improves durability. We use it on guards & handrails. Holds up really well considering how cheap it is compared to other industrial paints we have used.

YMMV

[luvrbus]

With all the no feel to the touch graphics on new RV's, with the blending and shading Imron wouldn't work.
If I was doing 1 or 2 colors Imron on any other 1 stage would work.Clear coat depends on the grade and the application it will last for ever also,people clear coat on Imron to hide the lines and it holds up that stuff is hard and tuff.

The durability of base coat clear coat or Imron all gets down to the prep work and primer without those all paint will fail       

[Zephod]

Lol. I'm watching my bus as the paint slowly peels. Each day brings worse peeling. I notice its mainly where the sun hits the paint.

Is there any paint at tractor supply that's any good? I know to avoid Rustoleum now.

Sent from my Nexus 7

[oltrunt]

Donald, yes, I meant PPG.

Zephoid, no, I'd bet there isn't.

Just as an aside, most of the peeling of original finishes is related to the factory use (no choice) of water borne primer. WBP has to be baked shortly after spraying to drive off the water in order to eliminate rust.  The problem is that the color coat can't penetrate and bond to the super hard baked primer and soon fails.  Subsequent paint jobs fail unless all the color coat of the original paint job are removed and the primer well sanded. Curiously enough, once the baked primer is sanded, subsequent coats of paint adhere just fine.  Go figger.  Jack

[Iceni John]

Lol. I'm watching my bus as the paint slowly peels. Each day brings worse peeling. I notice its mainly where the sun hits the paint.

Is there any paint at tractor supply that's any good? I know to avoid Rustoleum now.

Sent from my Nexus 7

Just wait a bit longer, then you won't need to strip off any paint yourself  -  it will have auto-stripped.   The same was happening with my roof paint  -  it was coming off in big pieces, so my fellow Crownaholics suggested I leave it for a few years until it had all gone.   Some of it actually blew off when driving!   I ended up hand-scraping it off with a small putty knife and a hot air gun to get down to bare metal, all 400 sq.ft. of it.   No fun.   I hate to say so, but it sounds like this is also in your future.   Once you have bare metal, you can then recaulk every seam, sand to clean shiny metal, degrease, etch, prime, sand smooth, and only then can you apply the paint.   Quite simply, you can't take shortcuts  -  there's no easy way to do it right.

Have fun . . .
John

[Zephod]

I can see why nobody repainted the bus before. I'm getting some big flakes.
And that despite washing then scuffing the yellow paint!

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[Oonrahnjay]

... And that despite washing then scuffing the yellow paint! 

    Yeah, but if it's a bad batch of paint, it's not going to stick no matter how much you wash and scuff.  And the way life is, if you don't get it washed and scuffed right, even the best paint won't stick to it.  Did anybody put a really thick coat of silicone car wax on that bus sometime in the past?

[Zephod]

    Yeah, but if it's a bad batch of paint, it's not going to stick no matter how much you wash and scuff.  And the way life is, if you don't get it washed and scuffed right, even the best paint won't stick to it.  Did anybody put a really thick coat of silicone car wax on that bus sometime in the past?

I suspect that the batch may have been bad given Rustoleum stating....

Thank you for providing the batch code a refund has been processed and you will receive a check within one to two weeks.

I reported the problem and supplied these photos and they asked the batch number then said they were sending a check.




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[kyle4501]

Not necessarily an admission of a bad batch - Just providing good customer service.

Keeping track of batch numbers associated with customer complaints is an easy way to identify where problems are & where improvements can be made.


Prep work for a quality paint job usually takes more time, effort & money than applying the top coat.

Based on what I see, the problem wasn't a bad batch of Rustoleum, BUT instead was more of an incompatibility issue of the top coat & what you were painting over.

I'm guessing we'd be seeing the same results regardless of the paint you had used - an expected result of incomplete preparation.

( I base my opinion on my own personal experience gleaned from my mistakes, and there have been plenty. )

[Darkspeed]

Did you de-wax it before you sanded? If not you drove wax into the old paint.

[Jeremy]

Based on what I see, the problem wasn't a bad batch of Rustoleum, BUT instead was more of an incompatibility issue of the top coat & what you were painting over.

Absolutely, that photo of the wrinkling runs is showing a solvent reaction, clear as day. Not the fault of either paint, just two paints brought together when they shouldn't have been.

Odd thing is though - there isn't any reaction evident in the photo where the paint can is sitting on the fender - must admit when I  saw that one my first thought was whether school buses were painted with anti-graffiti paint.

Jeremy

[goldgiter]

After you remove the failed paint you need to prime the bus before painting again,if you don't the next paint job will fail also! IMHO

Wes