Train Alerts!!!

[John316]

We are looking for a train horn. I don't have a problem installing another tank, but I didn't know if electric was better. Just in the looking stage I found some Wolo's http://www.wolo-mfg.com/truck.htm.

Some of the horns on that page looked kind of interesting. What do you all think, and which one?

Thanks,

God bless,

John

[poppi]

 John,

    My air horn is plumbed to the tank under the drivers seat. It doesn't use to much air
as long as I am not just tooting constantly . The little air compressors are slow I
have one that is 24v and am not real impressed with it.

   They all look nice but it sounds better to me if there are multiple horns 

  Good luck
   Skip

[junkman42]

John316, I have a diesel electric horn mounted under the driver area plumbed like the previous post.  It is so loud that even for a biker it is annoying!  It terrifies My Ratty and the wife hates it.  However it does have some valid uses.  Idiots that like to  pull out before looking quickly respond to a short blast.  I would much rather have horns mounted on the roof.  Have a great day,John.

[Van]

John,try train horns.com

http://trainhorns.com/
  Van

[Van]

Sorry bud,wrong link,here's the right link.Had these in our dodge hemi,Home owners assc made me promise to never blow them in our development LOL .
http://trainhornkits.com/

[Sean]

John,

None of those horns (the Wolos or the ones Van linked) is a true train horn, known in the industry as "diesel chimes."

If all you want is something with a similar set of notes, then one of these will probably deliver, but if you want the same volume (without which, frankly, you will not have the same sound), prepare to spend over $1,000 for real ones.

One way to tell you are not getting real chimes is air line size -- a real locomotive horn requires at least 3/4".  You're not going to get much sound at all from diesel chimes plumbed with 1/4" line.

We discussed much of this in another thread:
http://www.busconversions.com/bbs/index.php?topic=7419.0

Note my caution there about legality (or lack thereof) of real chimes, and my suggestion that you install them out of sight if you ever intend to sound them.

Real chimes are available from a variety of sources, even brand new.  Used take-offs often appear on eBay and even CraigsList, if you know how to search for them.

FWIW.

-Sean
http://ourodyssey.blogspot.com

[poppi]

   Sean,

    I'll check tonight but I think I am running 3/8 line.  Mine are supposed to be old switch engine horns which are different than main line horns

   "Graham-White's 353 Series of manual horn valves allow an engineer great control over signaling a locomotive's horn that electronic solenoid valves cannot provide.  Several metering options are available in the 353 Series: 12 SCFM, 24 SCFM, and 30 SCFM.   We can provide you with a valve that best suits your horn, as different series and models of locomotive horns react uniquely to various air flows.  A 70 SCFM non-metering valve is also available.  The 353 Series uses a common body and operating lever that allows for easy maintenance.  " Product blurb.....

YTMV where T = tooting

Skip

[Van]

Absolutly,Sean,I see the nathans on e-bay from time to time,nothing like the real thing to make the hair stand on end.Just a quick note before I get flammed ,I do not condone harassing the public with any train horns as was depicted on the previous web site .these horns could possibly cause a serious accident,thanks.

van

check these out;http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cN4STb-kEpA&feature=related

[Sean]

    I'll check tonight but I think I am running 3/8 line.  Mine are supposed to be old switch engine horns which are different than main line horns

... 12 SCFM, 24 SCFM, and 30 SCFM.   ...  A 70 SCFM non-metering valve is also available.

Sorry, Skip, I should have been more clear about the air line requirements.

Yes, different horns require different amounts of air, and, of course, differing amounts of air on the same horn will result in different volume (and possibly tonality).  And a lot also depends on the pressure in your tank and the ability of your compressor to deliver air.

On a real locomotive, air pressure runs at 150psi and the amount of SCFMs the compressor(s) is capable of delivering is staggering.  Also, the chimes are plumbed perhaps 15'-20' from the compressor and accessory tank.  Consequently, many locomotives use 1/2" plumbing to the chimes -- at 150psi, the required SCFM are easily delivered.

Note also that the SCFM requirements vary due to the number of bells.  A three-chime horn uses a lot less air than a seven-chime horn, naturally.

Lastly, on real trains, the horns must be capable of several sustained blasts in a row.  The most commonly used signal in all of railroading is the grade crossing, and that requires three long blasts and one short (not in that order), a good six or seven seconds of sustained blast.  Some grade crossings are so close together, there is no recovery time at all between signals.  While you might be able to get 10-20 SCFM from a 3- or 4-gallon tank through 3/4" line for a couple of seconds, you'd never be able to "imitate" a real train with one of these setups.

To give a comparison, even the wimpiest diesel chimes require something like 10 SCFM continuously, and 30 SCFM is not atypical for a 5-chime Nathan or Leslie on a road locomotive.  By contrast,  the Bendix compressors on most of our buses are rated at 25 SCFM at peak rpm, and most of us have brake treadles (the largest air valve on the coach) rated around 9 SCFM.

So, I am sure your chimes work fine on 3/8" line, but I would guess that you'd see a significant drop in output after two or three seconds on the horn.  (Of course, three seconds is an eternity if you are listening to diesel chimes ten feet away!)  Not a problem for a "show" horn, but if this is your primary safety horn, and you end up with a runaway coming down Donner Pass, you might wish for something with a little more stamina, even if it has lower initial volume.  FWIW.

-Sean
http://ourodyssey.blogspot.com

[buswarrior]

Lay into those style horns coming down Donner, you'll self-inflict a run-away!!!

oh the fun you can have mixing and matching....!

Where on the ol' DD can we mount the second compressor for "Chime Tank" duty?

Or, there's those 4 cylinder ones used on the bulk trucks....

just think of the possibilities!

happy coaching!
buswarrior

[bobofthenorth]

Lay into those style horns coming down Donner, you'll self-inflict a run-away!!!

My thoughts exactly.  When I'm coming down Donner I'm hanging off the Jakes and preserving the air for emergencies.  If the civilians need warning they'll have to listen for the sound of my electric horn, which is pretty loud in its own right.  My air horn is for wildlife and assholes in convertibles.

[Ray D]

Not trying to ruin your'e horns, but seems like I heard somewhere (could very well be wrong) that the train sound is illegal on everything but a train.

Ray D

[Van]

Ok,now I don't care who ya are these are just plane cool!Never realized how many train horn nuts were out there.
This is pretty impressive ,must be trailing an air hose out the back of this rig
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UUNnC-9XMnI&NR=1

[JohnEd]

I never could afford those BIG train horns.  Fortunately, I only wanted to make cars that were "herding" me into the fast lane and not allowing me to turn off the freeway TO YIELD SOME RIGHT OF WAY.  There are some idiots that think they are in a race and after you pass they hang in your right hand blind spot for miles.  Poor driving habit and I think many are just napping.  I have a rather rude electric horn up front and it usually works fine.  Had some tough situations so I improvised.....I installed those plastic "triple horns' that come with their own little compressor.  Had those on all my sports cars and they were magic at inspiring those Blue Hairs to stay in their own lane....forever!  Not BAD enuf for my RV so I plumbed them into my 90 psi and put a regulator in the line.  I blew them and turned up the air to 60 PSI.  HORRIFIC!  Put three horns under the mid coach and pointing out the side and three more pointing out the front.    I had those things installed and I demoed them to maybe 10 people max.  All said "you are going to hurt someone with those, man" except one 19 year old.  He wanted all the info.  I learned that the diaphragms blow out the front of the horn at 70 PSI.  They were plumbed with 3/8th tubing.  These were Hillbilly el cheapo air horns that were also considered a WEAPON.  Used sparingly but never ever ignored by any car in the right lane.  Mucho brake mucho quick.  Sean would have given me a ticket after arresting me.  The 150 psi rated air valve cost more than the horns.  Careful with that regulator.

Just some thoughts there.

John

[Sean]

My thoughts exactly.  When I'm coming down Donner I'm hanging off the Jakes and preserving the air for emergencies.  If the civilians need warning they'll have to listen for the sound of my electric horn, which is pretty loud in its own right.

Just to be clear, I said you'd need the air horn IF you already had a runaway.

If you have a runaway, it doesn't matter how much air you have available for the brakes -- you are already beyond that point.  The drum diameter has already increased to a point where there is not enough pushrod left to apply the brakes, or they have already cammed over.  By this time, you will have already tried the spring brakes (if so equipped) to no avail.  Now all you can do is hope and pray you can make the runaway ramp before you plow into some unsuspecting soccer mom with a van load of kids.  And now, you'll want the loudest darn horn you can muster.

In this situation, "preserving air" will not be on your list.

FWIW.

-Sean
http://ourodyssey.blogspot.com