Engine set-up advise

[lostagain]

Hey, it worked! Thanks Dreamscape for turning me on to Photobucket.

Here is a couple more. This a momentous occasion for me because this is as deep as I go into my engine. Head is off, pistons, rods, liners, crank bearings, transmission, clutch, flywheel and housing all off. I feel like I am over the hump, and from now on, the rebuilding process can start with new parts. And there is more, like going from oil bath oil filter to dry, intercooler, cleaning up engine compartment, etc, etc...

JC

[lostagain]

One more.

[lostagain]

And one more.



The rad is off too. I got it back last week all recored with dimpled tubes and serpentine fins.

JC

[belfert]

Man, I wish I had a bus shop and the time/ambition to pull my engine out.  Even though it is a Series 60 I still have some minor oil leaks and other minor issues it would be nice to correct.

Nice job!

[TomC]

JC- highly recommend you clean up, prime and paint your engine compartment.  One of the problems that the bus manufacturers had in the 80's when Detroit changed to silicone gaskets, was they found the engine compartments were rusting since they didn't have the oil be slung from the engine anymore to coat everything.  Besides-it just looks good.  Good Luck, TomC

[BG6]

Man, I wish I had a bus shop and the time/ambition to pull my engine out.  Even though it is a Series 60 I still have some minor oil leaks and other minor issues it would be nice to correct.

I'm sure that there are a bunch of us who would be more than happy to pull that 60 out for you.  In fact, I volunteer.  Just go get some lemonade, take a nap, come back some time tomorrow.  I'm sure you will be surprised to discover that the Series 60 looks remarkably like an 8V71, when you see it sitting there in the driveway . . !

[Dreamscape]

JC, I applaud you for taking on this task and keeping it as stock as possible! There aren't many of us nuts who would do that!

This is a very interesting thread, Thanks for sharing! Topics like this is how we novice DD guys can learn!

Glad you like the Photobucket thing, it sure makes a big difference on what we see on this board. Good Job!

What is your Photobucket Link, so I can keep up with what you are doing?

Paul

[zubzub]

Nice pics and nice bus garage, sure looks nicer than an open field.  BTW the more pics of the teardown and rebuild the merrier, it will help me (and perhaps some others here) understand these engines a little more. 

[TomC]

BG6- not quite sure how a V8 two stroke engine with a blower on the top of it can look anything like a 4 stroke inline six!  Good Luck, TomC

[Van]

BG6,you must plan on drinking alot of lemonade? .Tom you know,6-8-12,if "Ya seen one you've seen em' all" .have a great BN day.Van

[NJT 5573]

Lostagain, the worst thing you could do is put high compression pistons in your engine. If you want longivity and service with a turbo you must use low compression pistons, retard the timing and increase the fuel. The reference reading for this is at pittsburgdiesel.net and they have alot of experience with big horsepower that goes back many years. Gasoline engines can make more power with more compression, diesel engines cannot, they just grenade.

[JohnEd]

NJT,

I hear you!  I have been trying to make sense out of that also and I was coming up empty.  I happened on a thought though:  The "static" compression of a forced induction, read turbo or blown, engine is much power than that called for in a "normal" aspirated engine.  There is a term called "effective" compression ratio.  That is computed using the PIS of boost and the static CR as terms.  Don't know how that is done but the max CR on gasoline is something like 14::1 and that is the max ECR and the limit of the boost at low rpm.  SOOOOO, looking at it that way a "turbo" piston must be able to tolerate more compression so it could be called a high compression piston.  Now, I am wrapping myself around the axle on this and I do well agree with your post and your caution and your reference to Pgh Diesel.

Thank you for your effort and concern on behalf of a fellow Knut.  Yours is the spirit that keeps this place "solid gold" instead of merely "really usefull".  I think he is on his way to a successful outcome.

John

[lostagain]

I have replaced the front oil seal, rear seal, trans. oil seal, diff. oil seal and a couple of gaskets, got the flywheel resurfaced, replaced the throwout bearing grease line, etc. Every part to be reinstalled needs cleaning up because it all was quite greasy from all the leaks, so it all takes time. I got all the parts and overhaul kit, (high compression cross-head pistons and matching rods, bearings, cranks bearings, rebuilt head, etc.), and will be getting to that soon.

Meanwhile, I am putting the flywheel back on this morning and the service manual calls for applying "International Compound no. 2" on the bolt threads. I have Permatex thread locker blue or red. Which should I use? I am hoping some experienced mechanic or two on the board could tell me. Being Saturday, my local contacts aren't in. I'm going back to the shop to clean up and reinstall the starter. I'll check back here at lunch time. Thank you.

JC

[luvrbus]

JC, international 2 compound is a lubricant I don't believe it is a thread locker, watch out for brass washers on the bell housing and  the end plate if not in the right place it will leak.My manual shows grease in the thread hole with the #2 compound then wiping the excess, international #2 is just a assembly grease fwiw good luck

[Gary W]

Jc

Looks like you're doing a great job. Gail and I are enjoying the sun in Apache Jct Az. See you in May.

Gary