Torque Multipliers How Big is good?

[quantum500]

Yep a 3/4" will do it most of the time....with enough air.  I have had a 1" impact not budge a stud that holds the inside wheel on a L8000 ford this summer.  It was a cheap impact but it had 150psi through 1/2" hose.  It finally twisted it off and didn't even ruin any threads!  How lucky is that!?  I'm just a big fan of impacts to get the job done quick.  I have changed many truck tires the old armstrong way and I know that a torque multiplier would make it easier.  Most of the buses on the board are old enough that there are going to be issues.  That one nut that needs a 12' cheater all the way off is my favorite!  Along side a 2-lane road in the dark would make it even better!  As for dinging wheels with an impact....there is a solution to that problem.  You can make your own or buy them special.  No need to avoid an impact though!  Speaking of tools I'm seriously thinking about packing  250 twin miller stick welder around.  It would be more for the toys than the actual bus, but if the bus did ever need it that would sure be sweet.  Gotta love tools.  I have seen reference to "60lbs" of tools is the accepted amount.  I'm not sure how much that is exactly.  If your dealing with 1/4" drive stuff its a whole lot.  3/4" or 1" it isn't squat!  I have 4 sets of stacked tool boxes and even the little part on top has to be close to 200lbs on the one that is almost empty.  When in doubt always pack more tools.  Its always the goofy stuff that saves the day.

[JohnEd]

JJ,

I, for one, want to know how you do that.

Thanks,

John

[jjrbus]

JJ,

I, for one, want to know how you do that.

Thanks,

John

After watching me struggle for a while with an impact my Guru, Jerry Jenkinson came over and stopped me. He then explained it like this.  If you place an air gauge at the impact tool, when you plull the trigger you can see the pressure drop. Take your finger off the trigger and the pressure rebuilds. If you hold the triggger down the pressure continues to drop, so there is less pressure and volume to the tool. After 10 seconds all you are doing is making noise, there is insufficent pressure and volume to the tool.  Makes sense when you think about it.
By useing the tool in bursts of 3 to 5 seconds and then let the compressor rebuild pressure and volume in the hose for a few seconds. Then another short burst, let the pressure rebuild etc. This allows the tool to work at its maximum power. If the compressor cycles, stop and let it catch up. The addition of a auxillary tank as close as possible to the tool also helps.  Also needed is oil, Oil is power, use oil in impact wrench liberaly!!!
With a little time and patience this method works extreamly well! Given a choice I would rather have a 1 inch impact with a 1 inch hose and a 10 HP compressor, it is just not an option for me.  HTH Jim

As a side note, I no longer use 12 foot scd 80 cheater bars or jacks on braker bars, if a nut is that hard to take off I find the delicate use of an angle grinder is my preferred method. No more broken studs, broken sockets, broken wrenches. Two minutes with an angle grinder, beats a couple hours removeing a broken stud.  It also reduces the chance of injury!!!!

60lbs of tools is the acceptable amount, for who? The wife?

[Sojourner]

Thank you Jim....you explain it well about the burst of air volume under high pressure coming from small line and compressor.

Remember any size air impact tool are rated at 90 psi lubed air with a given cfm flow rate from the manufacture's spec. Other words, air motor need to spins at maximum rpm in order to reach the design specification. An impact tool is rotary motor spinning to allow hammers hitting shaft's anvil to transmit that blow of rotary force onto the nut.

Air hose size, the bigger the better for max torque at 90 psi. No less than spec size and no longer than 10 ft but connect to one size larger beyond that. PAT (portable air tank) is good if you want to use standard size air hose from bus to PAT and a 6 ft large size hose to the impact.

Don't forget to squirt a little air lube into male disconnect after 5 minutes of uses. Otherwise you will get weaker torque output.


About avoiding breaking stud....A proper rated torque stick well solve that problem.
Look for ¾" or 1" Torque Stick near bottom of page:
http://www.torquestick.com/cart/catalog/INDIVIDUAL_TORQUE_STICKS-p-1-c-1.html

Torque Chart:
http://www.tireindustry.org/cts/know2.asp

I have work at 2 trucking fleet in late 50's to early 60's, I learn the only way to break lug's stud is either over torque or chewed thread to cause binding. Torque Stick wasn't available then. And worn & strip thread from many of off & on or lack of tread's care...need to be free of sand dust & dirt.

You can remove them with max torque and make sure read the letter on end of stud..."L" left or "R" right hand.

About torque multiplier.....if you don't have a source of air...that the only time I might consider one. It also comes with a risk of bruise on your leg or whatever. They are costly, heavy and long breaking bar to handle while moving to & fro plus slip off sometime and very time consuming. Done that and no thanks.

On a hot rainy-muddy day or cold snowy day or on very busy roadway traffic....my choice is an impact or call road service while on vacation or retired to enjoy more of your time.

FWIW

Sojourn for Christ, Gerald

[HB of CJ]

Great thread everyone.  Thank you.  I'm getting sooss old that even thinking about changing out a flat on a dark and stormy night gives me the willies.  An air wrench...humm. 

[luvrbus]

I have a 1/2 drive AirCat that will loosen 1000#torque and tighten 800# cost me $180.00 weighs 4 # and fit's in my tool box some of the China built 1 inch will only do 800# but always use the protector on your Alcoa's Good luck

[jjrbus]

Great thread everyone.  Thank you.  I'm getting sooss old that even thinking about changing out a flat on a dark and stormy night gives me the willies.  An air wrench...humm. 

If you are getting that old, you should not be out on a dark stormy night 

[HB of CJ]

It was a dark and stormy night and I was Old...soooss Old that when the tire went...he he he 

[Brassman]

Hows come nobody mentioned the BFH (big hammer). Torque multipilers need to lock onto something stationary to achieve their force,

[quantum500]

Probably cause nobody likes to hold onto what ever the BFH is hitting.  Takes 2 to tango and I'll bet the wife doesn't get to swing the hammer 

[Brassman]

If she could swing the BFH, I'd hold the wrench.

[quantum500]

Key word is "IF"!  I would hold the wrench too but we both know it wouldn't do anything.  I have a old slaughter house kill hammer that weighs about 30lbs with a welded on pipe handle, it will move things that any mere mortal hammer could never attempt.  I will guarantee you that you do not want to be the one swinging it.

[Brassman]

Though it does seem like one heck of a torque multiplier.

[kyle4501]

Hows come nobody mentioned the BFH (big hammer). Torque multipliers need to lock onto something stationary to achieve their force,

Every time I've used my torque multipliers, there was plenty of ground to use as something stationary for the reaction bar. 

I can't imagine how the big hammer would work for the outer wheel without something stationary holding the extension up. 

[kyle4501]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Sweeney-Torque-Multiplier_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ39Q3a1Q7c66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a15Q7c240Q3a1318QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem280275897409QQitemZ280275897409


Looks like one of mine. Stout unit for sure!