Tire Valve info please

[Ncbob]

I have spent hours searching the net and the archives of both Boards for the info I seek and parts of yesterday morning with a tire dealer who's had 8 buses. Guess what? The info isn't out there!

Like most I run Alcoas (MC5A)  but my inner drivers are steel. Even though I was the one who mounted the wheels after the brake job I cannot access the stem for the inner wheel and yes, they are 180 Degrees to the outers. The stems just aren't long enough and I don't use extensions. One of the rears is leaking so I'm thinking it might just be time to change valves...the seals are probably too old.

It strikes me that valves must come in different lengths so one can choose the right length so the inners can be checked and pressure adjusted without removing the outer wheel. And shouldn't there be a difference between the valve used on steel wheels and aluminum wheels? Is the seal itself a different composition?

It seems that about every 6 months I need to call the tire company to come over and change a valve at $60 a pop. They install a new valve and throw the old on right back in the box where they got the new one. Do they just change the seal and re-sell the old valve?

And I don't want to hang any cross feed goo-gaws or braided extensions on my wheels to create more problems...I just want to keep it simple and accessible. Any thoughts?

NCbob

[gumpy]

Suggest you go to NAPA. They should have the valves you need.

As far as I know, there is no special valve for Alcoa's, but I haven't had Alcoa's, so could be wrong. For steel, it's a steel or brass valve with a rubber seal and threaded nut. When they install them, make sure they dip them in tire lubricant/sealer (same stuff they use on the bead when mounting on the rim). Don't install them dry. Make sure your steel wheels don't have rust around the stem hole.

As for not being able to reach the stem, I have an issue with my centrimatics being in the way and partially blocking my inner valve stem, and I have to reach around the outside tire, and in between the two tires, rather than through the holes. It's easier to grip the cap that way anyway. You may have to move the bus a bit to get the hole to a more comfortable position to do this , though.

[luvrbus]

Bob, I am on vacation now but when I get home I have some 5 inch stems for steel wheels I will give you 2  they made me buy a box of 25 to get two ( cheaper than 2 new wheels)and there is a difference in the steel wheel and  Alcoa wheels stems. Some steel wheels have the stem holes next to bead line on the wheel and some have a shoulder type the latter you can use a shorter stem  (newer wheels).  NAPA doesn't carry the 5 inch stems   good luck

[lostagain]

On my converted bus, I first had some cheap extentions. One broke just pulling into a campground once. Lucky it didn't happen on the highway! I replaced them with some good quality ones: steel braided with clamps to attach to the outer rim. Been 3 years now, no problems. Sure handy.

On the hockey team bus used in winter in deep snow and slush often, I wouldn't want that. So I found a tire gauge with a straight end that can reach the inner wheel stem. On the stem, put on the little stainless extentions with the ball on the end, so you don't have to deal with caps. My tire chuck for inflating is long with a straight end like the gauge for reaching through the outer hole to the inner valve. Works good. You can check your pressures more often like you should.

JC

[JackConrad]

We used rigid stainless steel extensions (4" or 5"). We used sink stoppers to stablize the extensions. No problems or leaks in several years.  The extensions were purchased at a large truck parts store.  Jack

[JackConrad]

We also re-aligned the outer wheel valve to stem for easier access, especially with the arge PressurePro valve caps

[TomC]

I have both duals Alcoas.  I also have centrimatics in between.  I bought the braided extension line from Camping World and mounted it to one of the bolts on the axle hub-so now the valve is right there on the axle hub with my Pressure Pro on it.  The outside wheel I had my tire guy just install a 1" straight stub valve, also with my Pressure Pro on it.  Even with the Pressure Pro, I still initially check my tires before each trip to get them even.
The trick to checking the insides is to have the normal tire stem, but to not have a valve cap on it and check it with a tire gauge that has a straight end on it, not the angled head.  To keep the dirt out, I would use my tire chuck without the hose on it to first clear the dirt, then go ahead and check the tire pressure.  Always worked-and this from driving an average of 62,000 miles a year for 21 years.  Good Luck, TomC

[white-eagle]

Nice touch as usual, Jack.  Good pics and i never would have thought about the drain plug.  i'd love to have an easier way to check and fill those darn rear duals, even better if i could someone else to do it for me.

i've been keeping mine around 110, but the bogeys seem to keep losing air down to 70.  same wheels, different tires-some off brand.  is that the valve's or tires or both?

[jjrbus]

I bought the better more expensive Valve extensions from camping world. Stainless steel brided  w clamps, I ended up with flat tire because one leaked. I was lucky and caught it befor any damage was done!! They went in the garbage. Only my opinion, ymmv  JIm

[kingfa39]

i also had the braded extensions on my 06, about two yrs in service one leaked down and i had a flay tire, wish i could use them as it is really hard to get to the inside dual on mine.
Frank allen

[FloridaCliff]

i also had the braided extensions on my 06, about two yrs in service one leaked down and i had a flay tire, wish i could use them as it is really hard to get to the inside dual on mine.
Frank Allen

They make two types of the braided extensions.

One has air in the extension all the time, the other only has air when filling.

The second would end that leak down problem.

I have been contemplating this same issue.....

Cliff

[jjrbus]

These are the ones I had    http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/dual-tire-inflators-hand-hole-mount-stainless-steel-2-hose-kit-for-16-19-5-inner-dual-wheels/6285

  HTH Jim

[Sam 4106]

Hi Gumpy,

Thanks for the suggestion of reaching between the tires to access the inner tire valve stem. My access is limited by the stainless wheel covers I have. I used your idea this morning and I was even lucky enough to be able to check both sides without moving the bus. What a simple, easy solution to a problem that has prevented me from checking my tire pressure as often as I should have.

Thanks, Sam 4106

[JackConrad]

but the bogeys seem to keep losing air down to 70.  same wheels, different tires-some off brand.  is that the valve's or tires or both?

EITHER, or maybe the tire bead to wheel. Get your bottle of soap spray and test valve stem/core first, because that is the easiest. If you buy a bottle of children's bubble soap (the stuff kids use to make bubbles with that little wand they wave in the air), it works good for searching for air leaks.  Jack

[Dallas]

but the bogeys seem to keep losing air down to 70.  same wheels, different tires-some off brand.  is that the valve's or tires or both?

EITHER, or maybe the tire bead to wheel. Get your bottle of soap spray and test valve stem/core first, because that is the easiest. If you buy a bottle of children's bubble soap (the stuff kids use to make bubbles with that little wand they wave in the air), it works good for searching for air leaks.  Jack

Or, you could just spit on your finger and stick it on the end of the valve stem at the schraeder valve.. If it leaks, it'll blow a nice little bubble.

Just an old trick every tire guy has used since balloon tires were invented.

Another easy way to check for leaks in bead seats, side walls, possibly a nail or screw stuck where you can't see it...

Over fill the tire with air, up to Mfg max.
Get out your trusty garden hose and with a mild stream of water, run it over the tires..you'll see bubbles wherever a leak is.

Dallas