Finally got to drive the bus

[mikeH8H-649]

Our bus is far from being done but had to take it for a ride,just a short 50 mile trip to get it up to temp for oil change but it ran and drove great.I will start putting in the bath today and we are hoping to be using it alot starting the end of the month,it is a 79 h8h-649 10'' roof raise lots of work as alot of you know.Questions,I need to put in some electric power my thoughts I have a 125 amp breaker box(home type) for hooking in shore power and gen(will be getting wrico 12kw but that will be a few months)and a 50 amp iota to run inverter thru,am thinking of using 8 golf cart batts plus keeping my 2 8d's for starting(opions welcomed here)will be using all marine wire and a vanner 100amp for 12 volt stuff,I bought a iota 12 volt panel for this,I have read Dave Galleys book and all I could find on this but sure would feel alot better talking to or getting actual layout to put this all together mostly worried about bonding I want to get all of this right the first time,as for the inverter I have found a dr2424 new for $900,a dr3624 new for $1300 I want to get a 4024 but no luck finding one so far.Untill we get the gen we will be mostly pluged in or running but may stot overnight with no power and will have a large apt refer and will want to be able to at least run a fantastic vent fan,thoughts or ideas greatly appericated,Mike

[FloridaCliff]

Mike,

Congratulations!

I remember the first drive off after doing my roof raise, "I didn't forget anything did I?"

It sounds as if you have a good plan for your a/c and d/c setup.

Are you going to be able to come to Timmonsville in October?

We could setup a 4905 roof raise section

Julie says Hi!

Cliff

[mikeH8H-649]

Hi Cliff,Tell Julie and the kids hi for me,we really hated to miss the last ralley but yes Kathy and I will be there this time,a few questions for you,I am getting ready to order a rivet shaver how long did it take you and any do's or dont's 2800 plus rivets also what did you use for running lights on your caps,and what did you decide to do for your pass seat so it was not so high up,sounds like you all had a great time in Timmonsvills Mike

[FloridaCliff]

Mike,

Get the longest handle front nipper that you can find.

I found a 12".  I cut the shafts off as many rivets as I could stand and then shaved the heads, repeat.

I used the shaver in a battery drill.  I felt I had more control with it on speed and movement as well as it is quiet.

The shaver usage is more of a finese thing.  I start with some direct pressure straight in, you have to hold the outside part of the shaver.

I found that working with the straight in pressure and a slight round motion I could make quick work of them.

I am now an expert!   But you will be too by number 2800.

How long did it take?  It took about a week, but its a tedious job, I would cut, then shave,get tired of doing it, work on something else, repeat.

On to the Lights:

I used LED marker lights.

Dont remember the exact size , but the key was that 3 would fit in the rear cap center inset. The rest made the same size.

I have converted all the lights to twelve volts except for in the engine door lid.  I am still using the 24vdc to control all of them, just relays that switch in the 12vdc to light them.

Passenger seat:

This is in redeisgn.  I originally had it up at parlor level on a swivel, but no way to look out the front.

Moved it down to floor level facing forward, but it was still a little to high as the top of the winshield was in your field of vision.

I am going to refab the structure were I raised my front floor to recess it in at the same level as the driver and make a foot rest that either pulls out from underneath or folds down from the dash area.

Great hearing from you.

Cliff

[edvanland]

You do not want to use a house style breaker box.  Use one for RV only.  The reason.  My MCI 7 had a house style and if conditions were right when you touched the outside of the bus you got a tingle.  The grounds and nuturals are hooked up differnet on a RV as compaired to a house.  How do I know this, cost me $2000 in parts and labor to have it corrected.  Luckuly I never got more than a tingle, not a full blow shock.
Been there done that.
ED

[FloridaCliff]

The grounds and nuturals are hooked up differnet on a RV as compaired to a house.  How do I know this, cost me $2000 in parts and labor to have it corrected.  Luckuly I never got more than a tingle, not a full blow shock.
Been there done that.
ED

Ed,

The panel was not the problem, but probably the way the inverter, generator and shore power feeds were connected or combined.

You need to make sure the Hot and Neutral are isolated from each different source of power or you will create the situation you described.

The little tingle was the warning......

Cliff

[DrivingMissLazy]

The grounds and nuturals are hooked up differnet on a RV as compaired to a house.  How do I know this, cost me $2000 in parts and labor to have it corrected.  Luckuly I never got more than a tingle, not a full blow shock.
Been there done that.
ED

Ed,

The panel was not the problem, but probably the way the inverter, generator and shore power feeds were connected or combined.

You need to make sure the Hot and Neutral are isolated from each different source of power or you will create the situation you described.

The little tingle was the warning......

Cliff

I agree with Cliff. The boxes are the same. Need the ones with the isolated neutrals and grounds.
Richard

[Danny]

That's great!  I wish I were that far along   But that is OK - somebody will be saying that to me one day

[mikeH8H-649]

Thanks all,yes Danny I know what you mean and I say all of the time that I wish I was farther along,but it is a good feeling when you work day after day on that big pile of parts then all of a sudden ond day you stop and look and think to yourself wow it is starting to look more finished than not,Cliff yea I figured about the same on the rivets work on them untill it gets old then work on something else which there is of course plenty of the more to do,as for the pins in the mean time I tell the people who ask what they are for that I have them on there for wind tunnel testing(some beleived it),as for running lights I found 24 volt led's but everyone seems to use 12 volt with resistors and was wondering why since the 24 are not much higher in price,I also am going to have to recess the co-pilot seat and I put a small 18 inch window there so will have to work that out,hope every one has a great weekend Mike

[JackConrad]

Mike,
   You can use a home type braker box IF you make sure the neutral stip in isolated from the case. Most of the boxes come with a "bonding screw" that connects  the neutral strip to the case electrically. DO NOT USE THIS SCREW. Add a second neutral strip attaching it to the metal case. Connect all neutral (white ) wires to the isolated neutral strip and connect all ground (green/bare copper) wires the the ground strip that you added. Don't forget to switch the neutral as well as the hot wires at the transfer switch.  Hope this helps, Jack

[mikeH8H-649]

Thank you Jack(hope you are enjoying retirement)yes that helps some but I still have a few questions I hope someone will answer,1 is the Dr3624 with 3 stage charger a good choice for the inverter,I found a new one with 2 year warranty for $945,and can I mount this in front where I raised the floor if I add some vents for air circulation 2,What is a recomendation for the transfere switch(iota 50 amp?)and where in the system should it be mounted 3,where I enter the bus with shore power should I use a 50 amp breaker switch like the hot tub or similar type 4,what cable should I use from there to the main breaker box 5,how do you tie the main breaker box and the inverter panel together,I really do have a pretty good understanding of elect systems mostly auto but I really want to get this right the first time since 12 years ago I got zapped real good on a camper that was plugged into a house with the ground pin cut off(my shoulder still hurts)if anyone would like to take the time to explain some of this you could email me with phone # and I would be happy to call on my dime.I usally can read and understand what to do but everything I have read (maybe too much)just dose not seem to work together,Thanks for any and all help Mike

[JackConrad]

Mike,
    Yes I am enjoying my retirement. I will try to answer your questions
1. I am not familiar with that model of inverter. Inverters can be mounted anywhere that is dry, adequately ventilated and away from flammable gases or battery acids. I am not sure where you have in mind, but if it is inside the bus, you may get a hum or fan noise that could be annoying.
2, 3,4, 5. There are several ways to wire a bus that work. I wired our as follows. Shoreline connects to the bus with a marine type fitting. 6 gauge wires fron fitting to transfer switch. Generator (which has circuit breakers in it) is connected to transfer switch with 6 gauge wire. Transfer switch connects to main load center using 6 gauge wires. This panel has the breakers for all circuits that are NOT supplied by the inverter (AC, water heater, block heater, etc.)  A 30 amp circuit breaker in this main load center feeds our 2500 watt inverter through 10 gauge wires. The output from the inverter feeds a sub panel. This subpanel has the breakers for all the circuits that are supplied by the inverter (TV, outlets, lights, etc).
   I have to go repair a roof air this morning, but if want to call after 3 PM, I will be glad to discuss this with you. Jack (863) 993-3683