Rivet guns and rivets ???
 

Rivet guns and rivets ???

Started by scanzel, January 07, 2008, 06:24:46 PM

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scanzel

Since I am going to have to replace the rear cap on my bus I will be needing to rivet the new one in place up the sides and across the top to the structure. What are you guys using for a rivet gun and what type of rivet is used? I looked on ebay but have no idea what to buy.
Steve Canzellarini
Myrtle Beach, SC
1989 Prevost XL

Tenor

I had several panels and some figerglass work to do as well.  I bought the big Harbor Freight air gun for about $100.  It uses large pop style rivets that I got from a local fastener supplier.  Works great.
Glenn Williams
Lansing, MI
www.tenorclock@gmail.com
2001 MCI D4500
Series 60 Detroit Diesel
4 speed Spicer

belfert

I personally used Shavehead rivets with a Harbor Freight air riveter borrowed from Craig Shepard.  I recently bought my own air riveter as Harbor Freight had them on sale for $30 when they are normally $100.

I don't particularly like normal pop rivets because they have a hole in them that can leak.  I guess the Shavehead rivets are technically pop rivets, but they don't have a hole and should not leak if installed properly.
Brian Elfert - 1995 Dina Viaggio 1000 Series 60/B500 - 75% done but usable - Minneapolis, MN

RTS/Daytona

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94669

I've had one for 6 years now - still works great after 1000's of rivets

PeTe RTS/Daytona
If you ain't part of the solution, then you're part of the problem.

Sam 4106

Hi scanzel,
When I re-riveted the rear cap on the Prevost I had, after I raised the roof, I used buck rivets that matched the originals. The buck rivets were $6 a pound and the rivet-set that goes in the air hammer I had was $15. I also used buck rivets to attach the new side panels except where the rivets had to go into tubing. For those I used pull-type rivets that have matching heads. However, those pull-type rivets have a hole in the center that has to be sealed. I used buck rivets where I could to avoid having to seal so many holes.
Good luck, Sam 4106
1976 MCI-8TA with 8V92 DDEC II and Allison HT740

Fred Mc

When I put on my rear cap from R&M they supplied 3/16 rivets along with caps for the rivets. They not only seal the hole in the middle but are domed shaped and look just like the original rivets on the bus. You can get them at an industrial rivet/fastener supplier.

You set the rivet, then place the cap on the rivet and give it a slight tap with a hammer. Very easy and attractive.

The only problem comes when you neded to drill one out. It is more difficult.

Fred Mc.  PD 4106

jjrbus

When I put the new cap on my MCI5C I used buck rivets where possible. There are areas that the rear of rivet is unaccesable and pull (pop) rivets need to be used. In these areas I used shavehead rivets. The shaveheads require a special tool to shave the head of the rivet after installation. The tool is very expensive $150. But for a small amount of rivets such as on a cap some delicate work with a 4 inch angle grinder will work.
The advantage to the shavehead is there is no hole in rivet to allow moisture to enter.
Remember, even at a Mensa convention someone is the dumbest person in the room!

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