Lesson learned: My radiator is really, really dirty

belfert · August 15, 2007, 06:56:23 PM

Ok, I learned my lesson. You guys said I should be sure my radiator is clean on the fins. I assumed the guys at C&J Bus Repair would have cleaned the radiator when they pulled and repaired the charge air cooler. They did not.

I pulled out the shrouding around the charge air cooler this evening and found the radiator is just filthy! I'll bet it is 50% plugged. There is a pretty good layer of soot from when the exhaust pipe was broke in half. I'm going to continue pulling the charge air cooler as it doesn't seem to be terribly difficult to do.

You guys were absolutely right to check my radiator for cleanliness. Because of they way the CAC is stacked in front of of the radiator I cannot check the radiator without pulling off the shrouding around the CAC.

Any recommendations for cleaning the radiator? I'm thinking I may still pull the radiator and have it professionally cleaned and check internally too.

Kristinsgrandpa · August 15, 2007, 07:22:12 PM

I used a pressure washer on mine, but didn't get it close enough to damage the fins. Some cleaners (Castrol Super Clean) will remove paint if left on too long.

If its oil or grease, Gunk might be the best thing.

I would clean the outside and flush the inside, then do the heat (overheat) test.

I'm glad you found your problem.

Ed

Busted Knuckle · August 15, 2007, 08:00:46 PM

Brian try the Spray Power I showed you when you were here! You can get it at Menards!

DavidInWilmNC · August 15, 2007, 08:59:26 PM

I also used a pressure washer on mine. I laid the radiator flat over two saw horses and kept washing it 'til the water dripping from the other side was clear. It was filthy! It took a while... I ran the pressure washer out of gas doing one MCI radiator (the gas tank was mostly full when I started). Just use the widest / lowest pressure nozzle available and keep an eye on the fins and you'll be fine.

David

prevost82 · August 15, 2007, 10:27:51 PM

I also use a pressure washer and do it quit regular, every couple of months. I don't remove it, I do it in place. Glad you found the problem before you spent a bunch of money for NOT.
Ron

FloridaCliff · August 16, 2007, 05:54:27 AM

Brian,

Good deal on finding it needed to be cleaned.

Sometimes its the easy fix...

I was amazed at how many pine needles and leaves that were sucked into the face of my radiator when we were pulling into a state park last week. Even at low speed those fans really move some air.

Cliff

Hi yo silver · August 16, 2007, 08:20:09 AM

You can also buy a flexible wire brush at a heating and air conditioning wholesale house, like a Carrier distributor, that is designed for cleaning the fins of A-coils and such.
Dennis

FloridaCliff · August 16, 2007, 10:48:50 AM

Dennis.

You reminded me of the coil straightning comb at HF

Great for straightning out those bent fins, only 4.99.

Cliff

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=37892

belfert · August 17, 2007, 06:50:07 AM

Update:

I got the charge air cooler out last night. The radiator is in even worse shape that I thought. It is totally plugged on about 20 to 25% of the surface. The radiator does not have traditional fins like a lot of radiators. It has metal zigzagging back and forth in a very tight pattern.

The charge air cooler was a breeze to remove. It took me around 60 to 90 minutes to remove. The radiator is a different story all together. My maintenance book shows that both the surge tank and the fan Assembly need to come out to remove the radiator. Stupid, stupid, stupid!

Removing the radiator Assembly should make replacing the water pump much easier. Otherwise, the turbo intake piping and perhaps the turbo itself would have to come out to reach the water pump. Whoever designed the engine bay was NOT thinking about future service!

H3Jim · August 17, 2007, 07:48:42 AM

Frustrating, but at least you know what it takes to solve the overheating issue. Way better than scratching your head

prevost82 · August 17, 2007, 08:52:34 AM

Can't you pressure wash the rad. in place, without rippin it apart? Seem like a lot of work just to wash the rad.
Ron

belfert · August 17, 2007, 09:04:31 AM

Yes, I could probably clean the radiator in place, but I would like to take the radiator to a radiator shop to make sure it is clean inside too.

Either the radiator or the turbo has come out to replace the water pump as they squeezed the radiator in right next to the engine. (Water pump is leaking a little bit.)

prevost82 · August 17, 2007, 09:06:30 AM

Understand now ....
Ron

Busted Knuckle · August 18, 2007, 07:23:31 AM

Quote from: belfert on August 17, 2007, 09:04:31 AM
Yes, I could probably clean the radiator in place, but I would like to take the radiator to a radiator shop to make sure it is clean inside too.

Either the radiator or the turbo has come out to replace the water pump as they squeezed the radiator in right next to the engine. (Water pump is leaking a little bit.)

I'll take yer word for it, but I really doubt that either HAS to come out to replace the H2O pump. But I'm not where I can look at a DINA and confirm this at the moment. I do know I just recently changed the pump on a customers Setra S215 w/60 series in it and I only had to remove the coolant pipe from the transmission retarder cooler and it was a breeze 5 hr job from drianing coolant, R & R, refilling coolant, running engine up to operating temps topping off coolant, using test strip to test coolant, test driving, clean up and invoicing (most important part!) FWIW

BK

belfert · August 18, 2007, 08:03:39 AM

Quote from: Busted Knuckle on August 18, 2007, 07:23:31 AM
Quote from: belfert on August 17, 2007, 09:04:31 AM
Yes, I could probably clean the radiator in place, but I would like to take the radiator to a radiator shop to make sure it is clean inside too.

Either the radiator or the turbo has come out to replace the water pump as they squeezed the radiator in right next to the engine. (Water pump is leaking a little bit.)

I'll take yer word for it, but I really doubt that either HAS to come out to replace the H2O pump. But I'm not where I can look at a DINA and confirm this at the moment. I do know I just recently changed the pump on a customers Setra S215 w/60 series in it and I only had to remove the coolant pipe from the transmission retarder cooler and it was a breeze 5 hr job from drianing coolant, R & R, refilling coolant, running engine up to operating temps topping off coolant, using test strip to test coolant, test driving, clean up and invoicing (most important part!) FWIW BK

Ok, I'll swing by your place and see if you can do it without removing at least the turbo intake pipe.

There is zero access from the rear of the engine. You can at least see the pump by removing the panels next to the charge air cooler. I would at minimum remove the CAC because it is easy to do once the panels are out. Maybe the turbo doesn't have to come out to replace the water pump form the side, but I don't see doing it without removing some of the turbo piping.

I should have asked MCI the best way to remove the water pump when I called yesterday to ask how the radiator comes out.

It just start raining good here so I don't think I'll get any engine work done today. I wish my backup camera was here so I could install that.