Am I correct I need to drain oil to replace oil line to DN50?

[belfert]

It appears the big oil line from the bottom of my DN50 alternator has a hole in it and needs to be replaced.

Am I correct that the oil needs to be drained from my Series 60 engine to do this?  It appears the line hooks to the side of the oil pan on the engine. 

Why is the oil line from the bottom of the DN50 like 1" diameter while the the other oil line on the top of the Dn50 is like 1/4" diameter?

[TomC]

The top line going to the alt is under pressure.  The DN50 needs about one gallon a minute mainly for cooling. The DN50 is a design marvel-brushless, oil cooled, sealed, no maintenance required.  The big line to the oil pan is that size because it is draining by gravity.  Typically the drain line that needs to be replaced is dumping above the oil level of the pan (but am not sure on yours).  You could put a oil catch pan on the ground below the line and just take it off. If some comes out, refill to specs when done.  Unless the line is on the bottom of the pan (which I doubt).  Good Luck, TomC

[belfert]

This is what I needed to know.  It is on the side of the pan so I should be okay then.  I have several different oil pans, but I would need to clean them out before putting clean oil into them so I could reuse the oil.

Do you think Pirtek could make me a new braided line?

[belfert]

I had to give up on removing the hose as I didn't have a big enough crescent wrench. 

The area is filthy dirty due in part to the leak so I think I'm going to wash it down before trying again.

[Tony LEE]

Use the dipstick outside of the dip tube to get an idea of the sump level.
You could also run the left wheels up on blocks to tilt the engine away from the hose entry to make sure. My hose has a couple of dips in it so it may have quite a bit of oil sitting in it.

Yes, any shop that does replacement hoses will be able to make one. Just take the old one as a pattern and they may be able to reuse the fittings to save some money.

[TomC]

I bought two 16" cresent wrenches just for dealing with the big hydraulic lines and their fittings.  Good Luck, TomC

[Brian Diehl]

Catco in Roseville will make you up any hose you want.  Bring in the old and they can build a replacement. 

[belfert]

I was able to remove the oil drain hose without loosing a drop of oil.

My big battle is getting a hose that fits.  The 45 degree fitting on the bottom of the DN50 has a long taper.  I had Catco make me a new hose, but I realized when I tried to attach the new hose that they used a standard hydraulic fitting instead of a long tapered one.  I've been back twice and they don't seem to be able to fix it.

The best  fix is probably going to be to replace the 45 with one that is more normal, but now I need to remove the DN50 to remove the 45.

I should have just paid the $105 to MCI for a hose that actually works.

[Sammy]

The line should be a piece of #16 Aeroquip with AN style ends.
Take the fitting out of the bottom of the alternator, it unscrews.
You should not have to remove the alternator to do this.
I would take the original line,the fitting from the alternator and the wrong replacement line back to the folks that fabricated it. They will be able to understand you then.
It's only about 2 feet of hose and 2 hose ends - should still be less $$$ than MCI.     

[belfert]

The line should be a piece of #16 Aeroquip with AN style ends.
Take the fitting out of the bottom of the alternator, it unscrews.
You should not have to remove the alternator to do this.
I would take the original line,the fitting from the alternator and the wrong replacement line back to the folks that fabricated it. They will be able to understand you then.
It's only about 2 feet of hose and 2 hose ends - should still be less $$$ than MCI.     

The original hose was Aeroquip.  I don't think both ends were the same as the fitting going into the oil pan is different than the one going into the alternator.

I cannot get the fitting loose from the alternator.  Part of that is because I have limited access to the alternator side of the engine.  I don't see a way around having to remove the alternator to get the fitting off.

[tekebird]

just curious, let us know what you have in parts when all is put back together, and how much time spent going to the parts place?

[belfert]

Like I said before, I should have ordered the hose from MCI.  I would not have wasted so much time.

It should have been a simple matter for a shop to make a hose, but I didn't realize until I tried to install the new hose that they made it wrong.  I'm thinking I should just get my money back and order the hose from MCI.

[tekebird]

if you can't get the right fittings locally thats what I would do.
Although it is nice to buy locally, sometimes it is easier and quicker to buy from the manufacturer.

[Tony LEE]

"I cannot get the fitting loose from the alternator."

I was able to access the fitting through the floor hatch, admittedly only with one hand at full stretch, but it was enough.

[belfert]

"I cannot get the fitting loose from the alternator."

I was able to access the fitting through the floor hatch, admittedly only with one hand at full stretch, but it was enough.

I'll have to see if that would help, although my real problem is I decided to put the house batteries in a tray on that side of the engine.  I wasn't thinking about access to the alternator and air compressor when I did that.  I've removed several of the batteries, but don't want to remove them all if I can help it as the wiring is fairly complex to get 12 and 24 volts from eight 6 volt batteries.

The Dina is 43 feet, yet has a smaller luggage compartment than any 40 footer I've seen.  It may even be smaller than some 35 footers.  Dina also put the condenser in a section of the luggage bay taking away even more space.  After this issue, I may end up moving the batteries either lower down next to the engine or bite the bullet and take up bay space.