QUESTION OR 2 FOR THE ELECTRICAL WIZARDS

[sivrtnge2]

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I am trying to eliminate running the engine and genset at the same time. I have a 2500 watt rv series(rv2512) inverter charger, a 9200 series (9280) intelli-power converter, a 200 amp battery isolator, and a 200 amp continuous duty solenoid. I dont think I need all of this, depending on how I hook it up. Also, this is not on my coach, it is on my rig.

1st off, I have a total of 9 batteries on this unit. 6 are engine starting batteries, 2 are house batteries(2 6 volt connected in series for 12 volts), and 1 battery for starting the genset. At this moment, I have the inverter charger set up to charge the house batteries when the genset is running...or invert when genset is stopped. The genset will also charge the starting batteries and genset battery. It doing this through its own isolator setup (from factory).

While driving down the road, I want to be able to charge the house batteries with the 200 amp alternator or the intelli-power. My thought is 1 of 3.
1) Run a 2/0 wire from the alternator to the 200 amp continuous duty solenoid...then from the solenoid to the house batteries. And then wire a 14 or 16 gauge wire to an on / off switch to engage the solenoid.
2) Run a wire from the engine batteries to the isolator...then from the isolator to the house battery and genset battery.
3) DONT KNOW IF THIS WOULD WORK OR NOT!!! If I install the intelli-power, one hot and ground to the engine batteries...the other hot and ground to the house batteries. Plug the intelli-power into a 20amp receptacle, When I am driving down the road, the inverter is on the intelli power would charge the house batteries constantly ans well as charge the engine. "WILL THIS INTERFERE WITH THE ALTERNATOR OR INVERTER???" I know that if I am sitting with shore power hooked up, it would charge the starting batteries and house batteries, which is what I am also looking for. sorry for the long post...just wanted to make sure it is well understood what I am trying to accomplish!!!
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BILL

[Buffalo SpaceShip]

First off, 6 engine starting batts are about 4 too many unless you live in Nome or someplace than never gets above freezing. Better to have 6-8 house batts and just a pair of Grp.31s or 8Ds to start her. The more house batts you have, the longer you can go between charges. I'd also ditch the converter and the isolator. Neither of these are needed to charge the batt banks via the alt. Isolators always introduce a voltage drop, so it's best to avoid them.

I'd tie the two banks together whilst tooling down the road, letting the alt. keep putting juice into the batts, and un-tie them via the solenoid anytime the engine isn't running. You can actually use an oil pressure sender or master engine switch to automate the solenoid to avoid forgetting to turn off the solenoid and running down your start set.

Just curious: what is your "coach" and what is your "rig"?

HTH,
Brian B.

[sivrtnge2]

Thanks for the info Buffalo,
My coach is a 94 Eagle, 10/45...the rig is a 2001 Kenworth with a 150" super sleeper. It is a mini version of the coach with the same amenities!!!
The rig came from factory with the six starting batteries and genset battery. I added the inverter and house batteries. Before adding the inverter, I had to run the genset at all times thus, burning extra fuel which would cause me to get less mpg, costing me more in fuel tax each year. (This side has nothing to do with busin but just think about running as a team from coast to coast with the genset running day and night constantly.) I talked to one guy that showed my his truck setup. It has the intelli-power installed to keep the batteries charged when he is at home for 2 weeks at a time or on vacation. He said he just plug in to shore power, and walk away.
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BILL

[Buffalo SpaceShip]

Aha, I see now about your rig. Ignore what I said about the start batts, then. I'm sure Kenworth knows what they're doing (still, it seems like a lot of batts). With your inverter/charger, you won't need the Intellipower converter... unless you think its charger is superior to your inverter's. Hooking up just the inverter/charger is simpler, also. As long as it has a multi-stage charger for best performance, you shouldn't need the converter. I'd also recommend some type of meter/gauge is best to tell how much you've put in and then pulled out of your house bank.

BTW, your alternator puts out DC and it will charge whatever batts are hooked up to it without having to go through a charger (and going DC to AC and back to DC). Some folks put a three-stage regulator on their alts. (from the marine industry), which helps charge the batts faster, but this is seldom an issue with long-haul highway service.

HTH,
Brian B.

[sivrtnge2]

Thanks for the info Buff!!!
I don't have the inverter (RV2512)hooked to the chassis battery bank. It was installed to the house bank. What would be this procedure??? Will this interfere with my chassis bank for any reason other than charging purposes only??? If i'm not mistaken, the inverter is charging through the same leads that it is inverting...right???
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BILL