MCI 102c3 6v92ta Mechanical Won't Air Up

[Jcparmley]

I figured it out.  It was the brake pedal was rusted down to the floor.  The pedal wasn't allowing the air to build up.  I broke it loose and now the coach airs up.  Now I just have to figure out why the master switch has no power.  But that's a different thread.  Thank you all for all your suggestions.  I greatly appreciate this forum.

[buswarrior]

The brake pedal being stuck at full travel denying the air to build up is a fascinating mystery. And not right at all.

You better check that air system very closely in various configurations, before going anywhere.

Happy coaching!
Buswarrior

[Busted Knuckle]

I figured it out.  It was the brake pedal was rusted down to the floor.  The pedal wasn't allowing the air to build up.  I broke it loose and now the coach airs up.  Now I just have to figure out why the master switch has no power.  But that's a different thread.  Thank you all for all your suggestions.  I greatly appreciate this forum.

I'm scared!
  BK 

[Lee Bradley]

Next question. Where was the air going with the brake pedal on the floor?

[Jcparmley]

Last year when I moved it to it's parking spot on my property one of the rear wheel brakes was locked up.  I wasn't able to build enough pressure to release it due to the fact that the valve on the air dryer was stuck open.  So in order to move it I bypassed the air dryer by connecting the supply from the compressor to the delivery line to the tanks.  This setup was very temporary and leaked air as well.  This was just so I could move it a few hundred feet to a new spot out of the way of my snow plowing. 

Last week I installed the new air dryer and as you know I was having trouble building air.  So I assumed that something was plugged or my air dryer wasn't working.  I shared with you all that the air wouldn't build up and the brake pedal was on the floor.  I realized yesterday that the brake pedal hinge was rusted and wouldn't allow the pedal to come up.  So when I loosened it and raised the pedal up the pressure began to build. 

My hope is that I can build up the full pressure to fully release the brakes and move the vehicle to a new spot.  However, today I found a new issue.  I can start the engine but it stalls after a few minutes.  I tried giving it more throttle but it still stalls.  Therefore, I haven't been able to run the engine long enough to build up the pressure.  This is a mechanical engine.  I thought it might be a fuel sense the tank is low and the fuel is over a year old so I disconnected the small inline fuel pump (PO must have installed it to help prime the engine) and I put it in a fresh fuel can.  Still stalls after a minute or so.  What are your thoughts?  I was going to look at the air intake to make sure the filter is not plugged.  I also thought about low coolant but am not sure the mechanical engine has a low coolant shutoff. 

The brake pedal being stuck at full travel denying the air to build up is a fascinating mystery. And not right at all.

You better check that air system very closely in various configurations, before going anywhere.

Happy coaching!
Buswarrior

[Jcparmley]

That is a great question.  I don't have an answer.  I hooked up a small air compressor with a 50 line so I can listen for leaks but didn't hear any.  There was a small leak coming from the new air dryer compression fitting but I tightened that down and it sealed.  I am curious as well.

Next question. Where was the air going with the brake pedal on the floor?

[Jcparmley]

I forgot to mention.  This valve doesn't move at all and is rusted badly.  Could this be part of my air issue?

[chessie4905]

Valve won't move with link attached or won't move with link disconnected? Latter, bad leveling valve. Looks like coach needed leveling valves anyway.

[Jim Blackwood]

Check your antifreeze level. On my DL3 if it is low it shuts down after about a minute.

Jim

[thomasinnv]

If you still have no power at the dash, then the engine is being shut down once the air begins to build. Unbolt the air shutdown cylinder on top of the governor and swing it to the side. Just remember once you do that the only way to shut the engine down is by manually pushing the lever on the governor.

[Jcparmley]

The air shutdown cylinder on top of the air compressor governor?

What does that look like?  Currently the only way I shut it down is my manually pushing the lever on the governor.

If you still have no power at the dash, then the engine is being shut down once the air begins to build. Unbolt the air shutdown cylinder on top of the governor and swing it to the side. Just remember once you do that the only way to shut the engine down is by manually pushing the lever on the governor.

[Jcparmley]

Oh, the air shutdown on the throttle governor.  Got it.  How does that system work?  Why would it shutdown the engine when the engine is building air?  Isn't that what the engine is supposed to do? 

If you still have no power at the dash, then the engine is being shut down once the air begins to build. Unbolt the air shutdown cylinder on top of the governor and swing it to the side. Just remember once you do that the only way to shut the engine down is by manually pushing the lever on the governor.

[Jcparmley]

Got it.  Thank you for the advice.

Oh, the air shutdown on the throttle governor.  Got it.  How does that system work?  Why would it shutdown the engine when the engine is building air?  Isn't that what the engine is supposed to do?

[Jcparmley]

What does this cylinder look like?

If you still have no power at the dash, then the engine is being shut down once the air begins to build. Unbolt the air shutdown cylinder on top of the governor and swing it to the side. Just remember once you do that the only way to shut the engine down is by manually pushing the lever on the governor.

[luvrbus]

If you are using the rear start without  the switch on the dash being on it will shut at around 60 lbs