Replacing fuel lines

[luvrbus]

The bio fuel is tough on old fuel they break down on the inside too.Wheel bearing should be checked at the least every 100,000 miles their life is usually around 150 to 200 thousand miles.Have a good shop do those for if you see a guy beating on the lock nut with a hammer and chisel run those are a special torque 200 to 400 ft lbs to load the inner bearings FWIW   

[Iceni John]

When replacing hoses I now routinely also add the silicone/fiberglass insulation sheathing over any hose that's close to the engine or exhaust.   I had a high-pressure hydraulic hose burst some years ago, and I'm lucky it didn't set fire to the whole bus when it sprayed onto the exhaust pipe;  the old hose was completely dried out and brittle from the heat there.   For small-diameter fuel lines such as to the fuel pressure gauge I use stainless-braided PTFE hose because it runs alongside the engine, but most of the other fuel lines look similar to PEX and they all seem OK for now.

John

[buswarrior]

wheel bearings last a long time.

Wheel end SEALS are a different matter.

Commercial stuff needs a wheel end inspection/teardown annually. A busnut might stretch that a bit...

You really want to get in there for inspection and lubrication periodically. A new set of seals, both the inner and the outer gasket, is best practices.

Leaking inner seal takes out your brake linings with lube soak, $o there i$ $$$ motivation to at least know the age of your seals.

Happy coaching!
Buswarrior

[lovetofix]

wheel bearings last a long time.

Happy coaching!
Buswarrior

So if someone has no idea how many miles a wheel bearing might have on it, how do you go about deciding if it needs replaced?
How does one visually determine wear/damage?

[richard5933]

So if someone has no idea how many miles a wheel bearing might have on it, how do you go about deciding if it needs replaced?
How does one visually determine wear/damage?

The wheel bearings themselves last a long time if maintained, but they still require inspection/service. If they've been properly maintained over the years they'll go back in. Otherwise, replacements are in order.

Unless you have evidence that the hub has been serviced in recent years, it would seem that at a minimum the hub should be pulled and a full inspection service completed. That means cleaning, inspecting the bearings/races, replacing the seals, and repacking with grease/refilling with oil (as appropriate).

While the hub is off, the brakes should also get a full inspection and service.

This will set you up for years of use without worry about the hubs and all the internals.

[luvrbus]

To check a tapered bearing
1 you check for a nice smooth even wear pattern in the bearing race you should not be able to feel any marks
2 Look for any chips or flaking on the rollers and inter race
3 Inspect the bearing cage that holds the rollers there should be no wear on the sides of the cage holding the rollers
4 Look for heat marks and rust
5 proper adjustment is the key to bearing and seal life .Most all bearing and seal manufactures recommend the TMC method you can find that on Stemco site
6 you can replace a lot of bearings and seals for the price of 1 axle spindle   

Every one does it different If I have a hub off I replace the bearing the and seals if the bearings show any wear .LOL we won't get into the oil vs grease I don't have problems with the oil bearings and seals though 

good luck   

[6805eagleguy]

To check a tapered bearing
1 you check for a nice smooth even wear pattern in the bearing race you should not be able to feel any marks
2 Look for any chips or flaking on the rollers and inter race
3 Inspect the bearing cage that holds the rollers there should be no wear on the sides of the cage holding the rollers
4 Look for heat marks and rust
5 proper adjustment is the key to bearing and seal life .Most all bearing and seal manufactures recommend the TMC method you can find that on Stemco site
6 you can replace a lot of bearings and seals for the price of 1 axle spindle   

Every one does it different If I have a hub off I replace the bearing the and seals if the bearings show any wear .LOL we won't get into the oil vs grease I don't have problems with the oil bearings and seals though 

good luck

Thanks for the write up Clifford I need to pull my front hubs apart the drivers side tire has a little play when it's jacked up. Really hoping that it's not the king pin other wise I'm in for a lot of work

[Jim Blackwood]

Not all wear/damage you see in a bearing race is cause for replacement. An example is the very small pockmarks you sometimes see in the worn area of the race. Maybe caused by hydraulic pressure between the roller and race, if they do not have any sort of regular pattern and are small they aren't likely to affect the bearing. Clean the bearing and races thoroughly with brake cleaner and dry with an air gun then with hand pressure push the bearing into the race and rotate it under as much pressure as you can apply by hand. If you feel any roughness at all and you are positive it is all perfectly clean and dry, replace it.

Jim

[chessie4905]

After thorough cleaning carefully inspect the surface the rollers ride on behind the cage that keeps rollers in place. Bright led flashlight works.Not uncommon to have deep pits in this surface and no indication on the rollers
Also bearing mfgrs have  illustrated charts on their bearings to indicate acceptable reuse and discard. Google it.

[luvrbus]

Any tapered bearing that the roller inside the cage has end to end play you can feel needs to be replaced,I was taught that years ago,taperd roller bearings are made to be loaded by adjustment unlike ball bearing. Example like a old DD blower it has ball bearing in 1 end and the tapered roller bearing in the other end for adjustment     

[Jim Blackwood]

That's because the ball in a ball bearing skids if there is any side loading at all, due to the curve. A tapered bearing properly preloaded never skids. It's theoretically a friction free bearing but in practice the required preloading does create a bit of friction. But not much.

Jim

[chessie4905]

Then you have the barrel bearing. Supposedly, GM bearing division came up with these to get around the patents on roller bearings.

[Jim Blackwood]

I don't know if a barrel bearing is a zero skid bearing like the Timken design but I suspect not. In any case the original patents have long since expired and every bearing manufacturer in the world now makes a timken type bearing. And for good reason.

Jim

[buswarrior]

Fresh seals, if it has been apart.

Cheaper than losing the brake linings to oil contamination, and compromised stopping power until you discover you're "lubed"

happy coaching!
buswarrior