Electrical... From Bad to Worse - Page 2
 

Electrical... From Bad to Worse

Started by Glennman, October 17, 2020, 10:04:56 PM

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Glennman

I removed the batteries... one at 12.57, the other 12.7. I have a charger on one of them now, and I'll do the other one later. I'll be looking for ground issues too, but for now I am cutting down a huge Maple tree in my yard and will take most of the day to only make a dent in it. I know, I hate doing anything that is not related to the bus!!!

I like the 24 volt stationary style 24 volt charger that was recommended by richard5933. That will be my next toy.

richard5933

If you get the PD charger, be sure to order one that comes with the charge wizard dongle. It allows you to check and/or change the charge mode from inside the bus.

I've got a 70-amp 12v charger for the house batteries, and the 25-amp 24v for the chassis batteries. They are plugged in pretty much all the time unless we're dry camping.

The 12v units can be found in lots of places, but the 24v one is a bit more difficult to find.

Here's where I got mine: https://www.ltdrvparts.com/PROGRESSIVE-DYNAMICS-25-AMP-24-VOLT-CONVERTER-CHARGER-PD9225-24-PD9225-24.htm
Richard
1974 GMC P8M4108a-125 Custom Coach "Land Cruiser" (Sold)
1964 GM PD4106-2412 (Former Bus)
1994 Airstream Excella 25-ft w/ 1999 Suburban 2500
Located in beautiful Wisconsin

Melbo

I have a 24  volt charger that I bought from NAPA.  It travels in a small out of the way place in one of my bays BUT it sure has come in handy when I have needed it.  My inverter / charger that I got from WRICO keeps the house batteries in good shape.

HTH

Melbo
If it won't go FORCE it ---- if it breaks it needed to be replaced anyway
Albuquerque, NM   MC8 L10 Cummins ZF

Glennman

I have one of the batteries up to 13.65 and the other is now charging. By tomorrow I should be able to put them back in and see what happens.

Glennman

Quote from: richard5933 on October 18, 2020, 01:46:32 PM
If you get the PD charger, be sure to order one that comes with the charge wizard dongle. It allows you to check and/or change the charge mode from inside the bus.

I've got a 70-amp 12v charger for the house batteries, and the 25-amp 24v for the chassis batteries. They are plugged in pretty much all the time unless we're dry camping.

The 12v units can be found in lots of places, but the 24v one is a bit more difficult to find.

Here's where I got mine: https://www.ltdrvparts.com/PROGRESSIVE-DYNAMICS-25-AMP-24-VOLT-CONVERTER-CHARGER-PD9225-24-PD9225-24.htm

I didn't see the "dongle" thing, but I'll be calling their number tomorrow to inquire.

It looks like it permanently installs. Where do you have it installed?

richard5933

I have it installed in my electrical bay next to my 12v charger and all the other associated stuff. I've got a remote 24v positive post installed in there so I don't need to go all the way to the battery box every time I want to add some little thing, and I think it's installed with 6 ga wire running to the battery. (Not designed for jump starting and such, just running accessories.)

Most of the units come with the dongle. They actually call it a pendent. On the 9200 series the charge wizard software is built in, and the pendent is just a way to press the button remotely. It's a small device about the size of a car remote which plugs into the charger with a cable similar to a telephone flat wire. You can make a longer one to install the pendent inside if needed. It should come with the charger, but every once it looks like a seller will try and sell them separately.

Here's photos of my electrical bay and the pendent. If you look carefully at the lower left corners of the two Progressive Dynamic chargers, you'll see the pendents stuck on with double-stick. I've since moved them upstairs for convenience.

Why the pendent? Usually when the 120v power is turned off to the chargers they start their smart charge cycle again when they are plugged in next. If I know that the batteries are fully charged, there is no need for me to let them run at the higher voltage and I just push them into maintenance mode (float charge). Otherwise, it just gives me piece of mind being able to see the blinking lights so I know what it's doing.
Richard
1974 GMC P8M4108a-125 Custom Coach "Land Cruiser" (Sold)
1964 GM PD4106-2412 (Former Bus)
1994 Airstream Excella 25-ft w/ 1999 Suburban 2500
Located in beautiful Wisconsin

luvrbus

In your planning stage I would buy a cheap pulse 24 charger from amazon they work good keeping the batteries charged,then when you decide on the inverter and house system buy a echo type charger to keep the starting and generator battery charged 
Life is short drink the good wine first

Jim Blackwood

It seems like a lot of these kind of problems come from playing fast and loose with the electrical system. Now if it was the fueling system or the brakes would you be unhooking things and just walking off without ever knowing what it was to start with? No, never. Hardly ever. The reality is that doing the same on the electrical can have the same bad results. You really need to make sure you know what it is before you unhook it. Also, if the engine died would you start by pulling out the fuel tank? It really helps to look where the problem might be rather than where it isn't. More often than not it's going to be something self inflicted so start where the last work was being done. Not the opposite end of the thing.

Jim
I saw it on the Internet. It MUST be true...

windtrader


Don't that sound familiar. I know the greatest number of my problems are self inflicted. Always "fix" something then WTF  - Why'd that quit working? LOL

QuoteMore often than not it's going to be something self inflicted so start where the last work was being done.

Don F
1976 MCI/TMC MC-8 #1286
Fully converted
Bought 2017

Glennman

Quote from: Jim Blackwood on October 19, 2020, 08:32:35 AM
It seems like a lot of these kind of problems come from playing fast and loose with the electrical system. Now if it was the fueling system or the brakes would you be unhooking things and just walking off without ever knowing what it was to start with? No, never. Hardly ever. The reality is that doing the same on the electrical can have the same bad results. You really need to make sure you know what it is before you unhook it. Also, if the engine died would you start by pulling out the fuel tank? It really helps to look where the problem might be rather than where it isn't. More often than not it's going to be something self inflicted so start where the last work was being done. Not the opposite end of the thing.

Jim

Yep, I understand what you are saying, except that I have not done anything to the bus wiring since the last time I started it (when I say the last time, what I mean is that last week it would start, but no working throttle, etc.). Now, after doing nothing, it won't even light up the dash, no power at all up there, no starting, nothing. That's why I started looking at the batteries (at the suggestion of those on this board). I've gone over all the grounds that I can find too.

With that being said, I now have 26.8 volts, but still no power to the dash. It's not like I need to drive it around, but I was hoping to get it to the DOT to have it licensed as a motor home before winter.