Wires everywhere- Help!

[awoods716]

Hi all-

Just brought home a 1995 MCI 102DL3 on Sunday and the demo has already begun. This is my first conversion and my first post so patience please. 

We are ready to remove the overhead luggage bins.. but there are many wires back there and I've read horror stories of people not being able to start their bus after cutting all of them during demo. Any advise?

Thanks!

[lvmci]

One of the wires that goes thru to the outside is the clearance lights, it Ts off and carries voltage to the rear clearance lights, get a book or CD about the D's repair and parts, lvmci...

[luvrbus]

Clearance lights are the only wires to watch for ,the control wires for the engine and transmission are in the tunnel, if removing a wheel chair ramp remember and mark those because of the lockout feature you will need those or have someone disable the feature

[ktmossman]

MCI has the schematics on their website.  First thing I did after buying my bus was download everything related to that Year/Make/Model.

Most of the wiring in my luggage racks was related to passenger amenities (which are now gone), but there was ONE wire that was associated with the ignition switch.

Just for reference, I have a 2006 J4500 so I have multiplex to deal with.  But I think the schematics are out there for everything.

[Jim Blackwood]

I wouldn't just jump right in and remove the bins. Take some time to plan out your conversion first. Usually the bins include two 1-1/2 ton AC air handlers with distribution ducting and those can be handy. Also the AC system holds 30+lbs of freon so unless it is completely empty you might want to hold off. Not horrendously expensive to replace if it's r134 but still, an added expense that might not be necessary.

It mostly depends on your vision, but for my conversion I decided the overhead bins were both attractive and useful, so I only got rid of the ones to the rear of the AC units. That still leaves room for the bathroom and master bedroom with plenty of wardrobe space.

Best use of the OTR air system for RV use is evolving. Wholesale removal is no longer the only or even perhaps the best way to proceed. Most of the best parts of a large capacity mini-split system are already in place, and modification for both OTR and curbside use are now options.

Jim

As far as the wires go, for the lights you can just remove what you don't intend to use (LED type replacement bulbs and fixtures are now available in suitable voltages), and my approach was to just bag the extra wires until I decide if I can use them. For instance, because I had extra parcel racks with 115v inverters, I have relatively heavy DC leads that could be useful, perhaps for instance to feed topside power distribution panels. There is a lead at the right rear left over from the lavatory emergency switch that could be useful and the rest doesn't seem too complicated. The last thing I'd do though is just whack 'em off.

[awoods716]

Hi everyone- THANK YOU!

As far as leaving the overhead bins, we really don't have any intention to keep them. I am tall (6ft) and I have already hit my head on them one too many times Happy to see them go. We also have a dumpster coming this weekend and plan to get as much "gutting" done as possible. Seats are already out and overhead bins are ready. Bathroom will need to come out this weekend too..

I have the schematics manual now, MCI just emailed it to me. I also have the maintenance manual and operators manual on hand.

I wouldn't just jump right in and remove the bins. Take some time to plan out your conversion first. Usually the bins include two 1-1/2 ton AC air handlers with distribution ducting and those can be handy. Also the AC system holds 30+lbs of freon so unless it is completely empty you might want to hold off. Not horrendously expensive to replace if it's r134 but still, an added expense that might not be necessary.

I see the two AC air handlers in the bins, we were planning to leave them for now. I would like to keep whatever AC system is in there, but I say that only because I have read on these forums alot of people have regret after removing them. With that being said, I do not want to keep them where they are overhead.. so at some point I am envisioning needing to relocate those units. I'm hoping thats even possible. I will likely hire someone to come and either help me plan and understand, or take care of all of the electrical concepts for the conversion. I have literally zero experience in that area, and I'm scared to make any very expensive errors.

Happily accepting any contacts in NH for bus conversion electrical guidance

[Jim Blackwood]

The biggest thing on the AC units would be the freon lines. You can relocate them but it'd be better if you can plan around them where they are. Sort out your floor plan and component layout first. You may find it works out. For instance, if your tanks go in the rear bay your bathroom ends up being right behind the AC units.

Check the project build threads before going too far.

Jim

[windtrader]

Congrats on the purchase and taking on the challenge! There is so much knowledge and practical advice here to guide you along, it is truly unique.


Great coach to convert, be patient, as it will take longer and cost more in time and money that you had budgeted, just enjoy the journey rather than the destination until you're done. Then enjoy the journey rather than the destination while on cruising the open roads.

[awoods716]

So we've taken everything out that we possibly can without touching anything electrical. At the suggestion from Jim we have done alot more research and planning.

I have also spent hours pouring over the manual and schematics. I am feeling defeated in that I still don't know where to identify which wires are which, or even how to comprehend alot of it. 

We have come up with a floor plan that we believe is going to work. The units in the overhead parcel rack that I believe are air ventilation systems have copper piping that runs down the inside of the wall. Our floor plan allows us to keep an AC system in the same location on both sides. I have to figure out how to get those old ones out though..Any suggestions?

I can see where most of the wires for the overhead lights and vents were. There is a larger bundle of wires all the way in the back of the parcel rack. Can anyone tell me about those?

[chessie4905]

Go to Harbor Freight and buy a wire tracker. Follow the instructions with it and then you can figure out every wire goes, along with the schematics. Remember, some wires may connect to more than one location.

[luvrbus]

So we've taken everything out that we possibly can without touching anything electrical. At the suggestion from Jim we have done alot more research and planning.

I have also spent hours pouring over the manual and schematics. I am feeling defeated in that I still don't know where to identify which wires are which, or even how to comprehend alot of it. 

We have come up with a floor plan that we believe is going to work. The units in the overhead parcel rack that I believe are air ventilation systems have copper piping that runs down the inside of the wall. Our floor plan allows us to keep an AC system in the same location on both sides. I have to figure out how to get those old ones out though..Any suggestions?

I can see where most of the wires for the overhead lights and vents were. There is a larger bundle of wires all the way in the back of the parcel rack. Can anyone tell me about those?

Depending on how they were spec the DL had wires for passeners blinds.climate control for each seat and locks for the overhead bins plus if restroom equipped there were more wires,does your have a electrical panel on the passengers side at the rear above the coolant fill tank or just the panel on the drivers side rear,you should have wires for the Webasto if it mounted at the rear like mine was above the turbo on the engine
 

[Jim Blackwood]

Also there are the panels at the front of each row of bins, which distribute power to the lights and such. One disadvantage of removing the bins before you track down the wires is in later identifying where the wires originally went and what they were for. Probably a bit late for this, but my approach would have been to label each wire as you disconnect it with a piece of masking tape and a pen. Then follow them back to the junction and label them there. Disconnect and remove what you know for sure you don't need and then trace the supply lines back to their source.

The thing the wire connects to always tells you what it is for.

Jim