Removing lug nuts (without breaking them)

[benherman1]

So I had an unfortunate experience today attempting to remove the inner lug bolts to get at my leaky airbag. I bought a new 3/4 drive electric impact that worked on a couple of them if I got it good and hot with the propane torch first. I still usually had to break it loose with the breaker bar and a large cheater pipe. Unfortunately I ripped the head off one entirely which is going to make for a fun time...

Anyway, What do you use to make this process less awful? I still have 6 more to go and will need a torch for the broken one.

[richard5933]

Maybe you can get one of these locally?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/30165-Budd-Wheel-Nut-Remover-for-Broken-Inner-Nuts-US-Steel-/162644856179

[chessie4905]

The limited lifetime of a few uses gives me pause at 55 bucks. Maybe have a guy thats good with a torch can assist you. You were using proper impact socket with 3/4 drive? Also let the other nuts set overnight with pb blaster or equivalent sprayed several times where the nut contacts the wheel.

[lostagain]

The exact same thing happened to me 3 days ago.

First I welded the broken piece back onto the stub. It broke again.

Then I welded a big nut onto the stub. It broke again.

I tried a big pipe wrench with a floor jack. Didn't work either.

I ended up grinding as much as I could off, then I drilled 3 holes into the flange, and chiseled what was left off. Took a day and a half. The steel is hard and tough to drill. You have to be careful not to damage the wheel or the stud.

I could've removed the hub with the drum and wheel attached and removed the stud from behind. It is held on by a nut. But I didn't feel like doing that, and the whole time I was convinced that it would only be another minute. It would've been quicker and easier to remove the hub from the start.

Anyway, it was a bitch.

I think maybe it was cracked from somebody before me over torquing it. Take a close look at all the others.

Good luck.

JC

[lostagain]

I didn't want to use heat that would transfer to the wheel (aluminum in my case) and the stud. Although the stud is replaceable.

The problem is that the nut is clamped into the wheel flange with 450 ft/lb of torque. I used PB Blaster, but I don't think it penetrated at all. I was only able to move it until after the tension was released by drilling the holes.

JC

[chessie4905]

The nuts and studs are grade 8. You will need hardened titanium or similar to drill the flange. A Dremel with  1/16" carbide ball bit will work to make the holes. Wear face shield though as it will spit micro slivers of metal. Use a magnet to remove them from your hands, arms and sleeves.

[chessie4905]

I guess I should mention that the nuts are marked if they are left hand with an L on the end. Sometimes you need a 1" drive impact, with proper socket to deal with nuts that havent been removed for years. 2000+ lb. ft. can make the difference.

[richard5933]

I guess I should mention that the nuts are marked if they are left hand with an L on the end. Sometimes you need a 1" drive impact, with proper socket to deal with nuts that havent been removed for years. 2000+ lb. ft. can make the difference.

Could someone have installed the wrong stud on this particular one? Check carefully to make sure.

If the tool at $55 is too high, see if the local parts store has loaners.

[luvrbus]

Those 55 dollar tools don't work good if the square is completely gone on a steel wheel, I use a torch and split the nut or sometime if you have enough room I drive a cheap H/F socket on the stud and weld it to the stud not with a wire welder I use the old fashion stick welder   

[ol713]

     Hi;
        Might try using a "torque multiplier". Also, when I put the wheel back on,
        I use "neversieze" so that I don't have that problem again. Found  my
        "torque multiplier"  on ebay and did not cost that much.

                                                Good luck,     Merle   

[lostagain]

I suppose never seize on the flange that contacts the chamfer on the wheel holes would be a good idea. Any lubricant on the stud threads is controversial 

[chessie4905]

The chamfer would be also.

[dtcerrato]

Been using never seize on the lugs with a 3/4" CP for 40 years without issue. They stay tight & remove easily.

[Ed Hackenbruch]

Just bought a new to me used pickup and went to pull the wheels to inspect everything. Loosened all of the lug nuts with a star lug wrench except for 2 of them. Got out my air impact which i could easily take off the lugs on my bus that were torqued to 480 lbs.....didn't even budge these two. Finally ended up using a breaker bar and a 1 & 1/2 ton floor jack and slowly applied pressure and they finally popped loose. Was afraid that i was going to break the studs or the bar. Since sometimes we get way out in the middle of nowhere with no cell service i want to be able to change a flat. Just like all of my other rigs i have owned, from now on nobody will put wheels on with an air gun. They either hand torque them while i am watching or i will do them myself.

[DoubleEagle]

I've had rims that were rusted to the hub that would not come off without using a twenty pound sledge from the inside. A little Never-Sieze on the hub or rim is what I use now. If anybody is running on salty roads, it is very prudent to use it.