Master switch no power

[Jim Blackwood]

Here's a shot of the only thing in that panel that really looks anything like switches, I expect they are circuit breakers. Hopefully that's what you are looking for. If not, try to give me very specific directions for what you want photos of and I'll try to get them. The hard part is understanding what needs to be in the picture.

Jim

[Jcparmley]

Hi Jim

Yes, I am referring to the yellow remote panel by the engine.  Sorry, I guess I was't clear.   The lift is still in the bus, I haven't touched it yet.  In fact I haven't even tried to see if it works.  I'm not sure if I want to get rid of it yet.

Back of the switches? Hmm... It has a toggle switch on the left side with a red cover but I don't remember seeing other switches. I'll take another look. You aren't referring to the yellow remote panel by any chance are you?

Definitely with a lift you'd have more wiring. Was that the part that you removed? I thought there was something. I'm pretty sure you'll find some sort of interlocks with that wheelchair lift. If there is anything Corps are scared of it's a disabled person. Big faucet that's hard to turn off. Really good chance that's where you will find your answer, some lift related wiring that lost continuity in the removal process.

Jim

[Jcparmley]

Ok, thanks Derrick.  I will look for the pin out of the ECM. 

L/ift interlock does not disable starting of the engine, it just doesn't let you release the parking brake. Ask me how I learned that one? Lol

If he has power on stud 4 of the ddec junction block then he should have ignition power to the ecm. Thats the same circuit that also applies power to the diag ports.

JC you need to find a pinout for the ecm and check for ignition power. I would find it for you but I'm on my way out the door. I know I have it around here somewhere.

[Jcparmley]

Thanks Jim

On the front cover of the rear remote panel are some toggle switches.  When you open the panel you can see the various wires going to those toggle switches.  One of my wires is disconnected and belongs on one of those toggles.  I want a pic of the back of your toggles switches so I can compare mine to yours.  Perhaps that hanging wire is important.  I don't know unless I try to connect.  I really appreciate all the help

Jared

Here's a shot of the only thing in that panel that really looks anything like switches, I expect they are circuit breakers. Hopefully that's what you are looking for. If not, try to give me very specific directions for what you want photos of and I'll try to get them. The hard part is understanding what needs to be in the picture.

Jim

[daddysgirl]

Here's a shot of the only thing in that panel that really looks anything like switches, I expect they are circuit breakers. Hopefully that's what you are looking for. If not, try to give me very specific directions for what you want photos of and I'll try to get them. The hard part is understanding what needs to be in the picture.

Jim

Those are the rear j box breakers and buss bars. Someone re-organized your rear box, but the bus specific components should still be the same...also for JC...although he might still have the wires underneath of the stud plate.

JC, quick question. Have you wired the battery bay back the way it was when you picked it up?

I only ask because if the PO did anything, and you put it all back to OEM, it might make the problem worse.

[daddysgirl]

Thanks Jim

On the front cover of the rear remote panel are some toggle switches. When you open the panel you can see the various wires going to those toggle switches.  One of my wires is disconnected and belongs on one of those toggles.  I want a pic of the back of your toggles switches so I can compare mine to yours.  Perhaps that hanging wire is important.  I don't know unless I try to connect.  I really appreciate all the help

Jared

Those switches are for the rear start and so forth. what position are they in?
Does the wire your trying to place have a code on it? Was it connected when you picked up the bus?

[Jcparmley]

Ok, I found a pin out of the ECM and am going over to the shop to test for power.  Now you mentioned that some should have power when the switch is off.  What switch are we referring to?  I am assuming it's the master dash switch.  So I will test each pin with the master dash switch off but the batter disconnect switch in the battery bay on.  Then I will turn on the master switch on the dash on and check for power in the ignition wire.  Am I missing anything?

How many of what voltage did you get at the ecm? With switch on or off? It's been a while since I have been into mine so my memory may be a little fuzzy, but I believe you should have 3 pins with voltage on them at the ecm with switch off, and one that comes alive with switch on.

Before resolving yourself to a bad ecm I would try to find someone that can plug into it in the vehicle and verify what it is or is not doing. There are a few things that are pretty simple that can keep it from starting even if all the appropriate voltages are present at the ecm. Srs and trs for starters. It's not completely beyond the realm of possibilities that something non related to your battery woe's has coincidentally happened at the same time.

[Jcparmley]

I have power on these wires

A2. Digital Output
B1. Check Engine Light
B3  Ignition
C1. Data Link Minus
C2. Data Link Plus
E2  Vehicle Speed Plus
G2. Digital Input
H3. Coolant Level
J2. Digital Input

I wasn't able to turn on the master switch on the dash because I left the door key back home and we are in the middle of a freak snow storm.  I will redo the test tomorrow.

[Jim Blackwood]

Try these:

Jim

[Jcparmley]

Excellent.  That should help.  Thanks

Try these:

Jim

[Jcparmley]

i'm at the bus now.  I redid the test on the ecm harness.  With the power on but the master dash switch off I have power on:

A2. Digital Output
B1. Check Engine Light
B3  Ignition
C1. Data Link Minus
C2. Data Link Plus
E2  Vehicle Speed Plus
G2. Digital Input
H3. Coolant Level
J2. Digital Input

I have 12 volts on all except H3 where I have 6.7 volts.

When I turn on the master switch on the dash I get the exact same readings as I do with the master switch off. 

I have not wired the batter box the way the PO had it wired.  Should I do that?

The hanging wire in the rear remote control box has a 10p label on it

The ECM diagnostic socket has no power.

also, the beeping I hear faintly from the front JBox is this beeper:

[Jim Blackwood]

Mine beeps until the air pressure comes up, don't know if it is the same beeper but I can check.

Jim

[daddysgirl]

Code 10 should be a low water level sensor. That might explain why the voltage is low on that pin...maybe it caused a prior issue. Was it connected when you brought it home?

[daddysgirl]

And IMHO...
I would put the batteries back the way they were when you got it. Reason being, we know the bus will run with that configuration. Get it to run, drive it where you need it to be, then begin the circuit by circuit analysis.
Just my 2 cents.

[luvrbus]

Check the voltage at cavity A the orange wire when the CE lights up it will run