Aluminum wheels or stainless simulators?

luvrbus · October 10, 2018, 06:45:23 AM

Quote from: Boomer on October 09, 2018, 09:19:38 PM
Aw 'come on Cliff. We all know you swing through Danny's in Phoenix and get your wheels polished, lol.

LOL they do a good job

chessie4905 · October 10, 2018, 06:54:33 AM

Where I had my rims polished, they do semis; wheels, fuel tanks, etc. One of the guys has a green grey haze all over him. The wheel guy has this on hands and face. Even the company cat has this haze all over it.lol

OKIE9ERS · October 10, 2018, 06:56:06 AM

Would anyone have an MCI part # on the wheel studs? Or an old one laying around to get dimensions on? Shoulder/serrations diameter is what I need.
Stud pilot of course on my 81..
Thanks

OKIE9ERS · October 10, 2018, 07:25:55 AM

1 1/8"thread, 1 1/4"at the shoulder is standard truck stud for steer axle.
Ive never seen one from an MCI.
It might not even have serrations, could have a clipped head to keep it from turning in the hub...

TomC · October 11, 2018, 08:18:18 AM

Steel are heavier, many times out of balance-but if you bend them, you can many times pound them back into shape with a big ol hammer.
Aluminum are lighter-better ride, look better, and usually are balanced better. BUT-don't hit a curb sideways, or you'll crack them (don't ask how I know). As to polishing-if you put a sealer over the freshly polished wheels, they will stay shiny for several years. I haven't polished my rims for 7 years and yes they are a little less polished looking, but still look alright. Good Luck, TomC

luvrbus · October 11, 2018, 09:00:51 AM

Quote from: OKIE9ERS on October 10, 2018, 07:25:55 AM
1 1/8"thread, 1 1/4"at the shoulder is standard truck stud for steer axle.
Ive never seen one from an MCI.
It might not even have serrations, could have a clipped head to keep it from turning in the hub...

They have serrations with a nut on the drum side, the dimensions are posted here some place with Mertior numbers the search for those has been going on for several years lol and we all ended up biting the bullet. look up Meritor 20x305 and you will see the standard MCI stud but they are 3/8th too short for aluminum wheels

OKIE9ERS · October 11, 2018, 11:34:49 AM

Thanks Cliff...

OKIE9ERS · October 11, 2018, 01:53:38 PM

Quote from: luvrbus on October 11, 2018, 09:00:51 AM

They have serrations with a nut on the drum side, the dimensions are posted here some place with Mertior numbers the search for those has been going on for several years lol and we all ended up biting the bullet. look up Meritor 20x305 and you will see the standard MCI stud but they are 3/8th too short for aluminum wheels

Man these are not what I was expecting...lol...I found some 3/10" longer than the 20x305 on the wheel end..Do you think that would be enough to go with aluminum?
Geez, wholesale from meritor like 17 bucks apiece...Found some imported, company called automann, $4.62 apiece wholesale... for the 3/10 longer

eagle19952 · October 11, 2018, 03:38:00 PM

https://www.realwheels.com/aerodynamic-wheel-covers/

https://www.realwheels.com/product/twist-lock-aero-covers/

windtrader · October 12, 2018, 08:22:50 AM

Don't recall this being mentioned as an option for replacing studs and nuts. Since you can replace both bolt and nut as a pair, the threading spec is not as relevant as you'd order a set that matched. Then you can concentrate on searching for bolts that match base on length and diameter and grade which should make a lot more options available. Seems like it could work and be cheaper too.

luvrbus · October 12, 2018, 08:53:14 AM

Quote from: windtrader on October 12, 2018, 08:22:50 AM
Don't recall this being mentioned as an option for replacing studs and nuts. Since you can replace both bolt and nut as a pair, the threading spec is not as relevant as you'd order a set that matched. Then you can concentrate on searching for bolts that match base on length and diameter and grade which should make a lot more options available. Seems like it could work and be cheaper too.

You have some explaining to do replacing a wheel stud with a bolt ,I am lost on this one and all ears

OKIE9ERS · October 12, 2018, 09:44:40 AM

I think Im gonna be good with the 3/10" longer studs I got..
Alum wheel is 1/2" thicker than steel, but, the alum has an extra countersink for the nut of around 1/4", and I had a few extra threads on my steel wheels with factory studs to begin with...
Bus getting shiny new steers!!!!

windtrader · October 12, 2018, 10:04:24 AM

QuoteYou have some explaining to do replacing a wheel stud with a bolt, I am lost on this one and all ears

Clifford, you know I'm not afraid to say I am clueless about buses. Yes, the idea was to replace a stud with a bolt. Probably showing my ignorance that a bolt won't fit on the backside of the plate. Sounded like a possibility though.

OK. So what about metric sized studs and nuts? I'm traveling in SE Asia and wonder if studs and nuts sourced here might make a group buy might worthwhile. If you can give me some metric equivalents maybe I can ask around some bus repair shops.

RJ · October 12, 2018, 12:05:53 PM

Quote from: OKIE9ERS on October 12, 2018, 09:44:40 AM
I think Im gonna be good with the 3/10" longer studs I got..

For future reference, the MCI part numbers for stock studs are

Front

15C-2-38 = LH thread
15C-2-39 = RH thread

Rear

15C-3-37 = LH Thread
15C-3-38 = RH Thread

My 5C's parts book doesn't show an optional stud for aluminum wheels.

FWIW & HTH. . .

OKIE9ERS · October 12, 2018, 02:03:09 PM

Thanks RJ...I'll need those rear #s when I get to the drives