Seat rails mc9

OKIE9ERS · July 01, 2018, 12:55:35 PM

On my 81, theres 25 big phillips screws holding the rail that the seats bolted to, the a/c duct system also slips under the edge of this rail...couldnt budge them with cordless drill...got my 1/2" impact on them and they just spin like crazy but dont back out. Does anyone know how to get these out, short of chiseling? Are they some kind of 1/4 turn fastener?
Thanks!!!

Dave5Cs · July 01, 2018, 12:59:27 PM

4" grinder is your friend.
Or Dremel Tool

chessie4905 · July 01, 2018, 01:07:58 PM

Maybe nuts underneath in baggage bays?

OKIE9ERS · July 01, 2018, 01:47:20 PM

No, theyre attached to the outer wall

neoneddy · July 01, 2018, 02:24:01 PM

I used a 5" grinding wheel on a cordless angle grinder. The 5" wheel let me get through the entire bolt, while keeping the motor bits above the rail. It's corroded on via dissimilar metal.

Oonrahnjay · July 02, 2018, 05:53:59 AM

Quote from: neoneddy on July 01, 2018, 02:24:01 PMI used a 5" grinding wheel on a cordless angle grinder. ...

One question, please. Do you mean a thick, radiused grinding wheel or a flat, thinner cut-off wheel to cut the bolts? I've never been able to find a flat wheel for an angle grinder but I've often thought that I'd like to.
Thanks, BH

neoneddy · July 02, 2018, 09:20:36 AM

Yeah, sorry, thin cut off wheel. I went through 4 or 5. With the 4" or 4.5" wheels I found I could only do a bolt or two before it wouldn't reach.

OKIE9ERS · July 02, 2018, 04:52:20 PM

Nice...I have 50 of these to cut off...just bought me a brand new angle grinder...stocked up on wheels(bought 3 lol)

Dave5Cs · July 02, 2018, 09:30:52 PM

Can you get a sawzall with a long blade in there, use a metal blade.
And a Carborundum blade on the grinder last a little longer and are a little thicker than a cutoff wheel but still thin 3/16 maybe. I sometimes take off the guard (but I didn't tell you to do that) and put a 7 inch blade on a 4-1/2" grinder.

buswarrior · July 03, 2018, 05:56:46 AM

To save some grinding wheels...

Grind far enough, whack with chisel, snap head, move to next one.

Easier to clean up the ragged stump with the worn wheels, after the rail is out of the way.

Small satisfaction in getting to beat something productive?

Happy coaching!
Buswarrior

chessie4905 · July 03, 2018, 07:19:17 AM

Titanium drill bit. Drill out the phillips cross till head comes off. Also a carbide round burr will work, although it'll take awhile with lots of steel slivers to keep off the shin and eyes. Burn out the recessed heads with a torch if there is no fire issue.

brmax · July 03, 2018, 05:14:02 PM

You might try using a large ball peen hammer and after 3 good hits with the ball side, try your big philips screw driver to unscrew it. Im not going to say it always works, but will say I just did 3 and knockin on wood for when in the future the others get some attention.

Good day

Floyd

chessie4905 · July 03, 2018, 06:50:47 PM

He said that they turned when he used an impact wrench, just didn't back out. So that useful idea isn't going to work in this situation. I'll keep it in mind though the next time one seems stripped out or too tight to turn. I've also used a wrench on the screwdriver handle for assist.

OKIE9ERS · July 03, 2018, 07:36:55 PM

Thanks for all the suggestions...bought some new sawzall blades too so between them and the grinder I'll get em out(being positive)....These are only the biggest screws Ive seen on the whole dang bus...
Interesting and very impressive the quality Im finding in the demo...they built this thing like a tank

OKIE9ERS · July 22, 2018, 12:56:03 PM

Making progress with the screws(cutoff wheel and chisel).
I'm still left with the stub of the screw sticking out of the frame after removing the panel. How do you get that special nut thats inside the frame out of there? I hate to think of all those rattling around inside the frame for all of eternity...thanks