Anti-freeze out of Air Box Drain Can - Page 2
 

Anti-freeze out of Air Box Drain Can

Started by GnarlyBus, June 16, 2018, 07:56:27 AM

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TomC

While you're at it, probably should replace all cylinder liner O-rings. This is a big reason I found a bus with a 8V-71 (71's have dry cylinder liners). Good Luck, TomC
Tom & Donna Christman. 1985 Kenworth 40ft Super C with garage. '77 AMGeneral 10240B; 8V-71TATAIC V730.

GnarlyBus

Quote from: chessie4905 on June 17, 2018, 04:59:09 AMTurn engine slightly for piston to uncover ports in that cylinder and repeat.
So when did you get it hot/ overheat in past?
We did this before we shot the video to make sure the water wasn't coming from inside the cylinder.

We triggered the engine temp shut down one of the first times we drove the bus over 3 years ago because the coolant sight glass bulb hose had a kink in it making it look full. Never ran it hot since then.
1984 MC-9 w/ 6v92TA & Allison 740
Oregon Summers & Arizona Winters
Full-Time since 2015

GnarlyBus

Quote from: luvrbus on June 17, 2018, 05:58:49 AM
It is the liner seals leaking you have 2 o=rings seals above the ports on the liner in the block, that is a bummer the heads and pan need to come off and pull the liners to replace 30 bucks of o-rings, thanks for the video   
Ok, I've been soaking up knowledge, reading the manuals and doing my own maintenance for a few years so I would be more ready to tackle inevitable jobs like this. My bus is my home so it has to be done!

I'll be working on this project over the summer.

1. if I drain the slobber catch can (and leave it open) and make sure the coolant and oil are topped up, how crazy is the risk of driving the bus 15 miles to move it somewhere I can work on it?

2. Where exactly is the coolant coming from before it gets past the cylinder liner seal? Does that mean my head gasket is bad too?
1984 MC-9 w/ 6v92TA & Allison 740
Oregon Summers & Arizona Winters
Full-Time since 2015

luvrbus

No head gaskets will leak coolant into the oil and most of the time hydro lock a engine,  there is a 2 inch water jacket around the liners at the top that is where the coolant is leaking from.
Makes no difference about the head gasket the heads come off anyways.when you go back buy good antifreeze stay away from the Walmart crap,you can drive it 15 miles as long as the drains are open and coolant is not going into the oil.You have a lot of work to do, parts are not bad around 100 bucks total plus the fluids and bearings which I would replace    
Life is short drink the good wine first

eagle19952

Quote from: luvrbus on June 17, 2018, 09:20:10 AM
No head gaskets will leak coolant into the oil and most of the time hydro lock a engine,  there is a 2 inch water jacket around the liners at the top that is where the coolant is leaking from.
Makes no difference about the head gasket the heads come off anyways.when you go back buy good antifreeze stay away from the Walmart crap,you can drive it 15 miles as long as the drains are open and coolant is not going into the oil.You have a lot of work to do, parts are not bad around 100 bucks total plus the fluids and bearings which I would replace    

you don't think now is the time to measure and measure some more ?

no way i go that deep and just replace the o-rings and rod bearings...
Donald PH
1978 Model 05 Eagle w/Torsilastic Suspension,8V71 N, DD, Allison on 24.5's 12kw Kubota.

luvrbus

Quote from: eagle19952 on June 17, 2018, 07:38:51 PM
you don't think now is the time to measure and measure some more ?

no way i go that deep and just replace the o-rings and rod bearings...

Yep when he gets in there no telling what he will find ,I did notice the build up on the 1 piston I could see 
Life is short drink the good wine first

bevans6

When you pull the sleeves, do you pull the pistons/rods first or as an assembly?  I always assumed as an assembly.

Brian
1980 MCI MC-5C, 8V-71T from a M-110 self propelled howitzer
Allison MT-647
Tatamagouche, Nova Scotia

luvrbus

Quote from: bevans6 on June 18, 2018, 08:21:46 AM
When you pull the sleeves, do you pull the pistons/rods first or as an assembly?  I always assumed as an assembly.

Brian

I pull those as a assembly you can do both ways
Life is short drink the good wine first

eagle19952

Quote from: luvrbus on June 18, 2018, 08:30:42 AM


I pull those as a assembly you can do both ways
not without a loader :(
or a Sharpie :)
Donald PH
1978 Model 05 Eagle w/Torsilastic Suspension,8V71 N, DD, Allison on 24.5's 12kw Kubota.

GnarlyBus

After reading the shop manual's instructions for removing the head, I have a few questions. I'm trying to visualize the project before I start it. I know this could turn into a larger more complete overhaul once I get in there and see what's up, but I'll start here.

1. Will I need to remove the turbocharger?

2. The manual didn't say anything about removing the rocker arm assemblies. Do these or the jakes need to be removed?

3. What kind of lift am I going to need to get the head lifted off the block?

4. I'm thinking of getting an air ratchet (not impact) to help make this a little less knuckle busting. Think that would help?

Thanks for all the replies!
1984 MC-9 w/ 6v92TA & Allison 740
Oregon Summers & Arizona Winters
Full-Time since 2015

luvrbus

Top mounted turbo dosen't need to be removed just the piping to the heads ,the rocker arm stands and Jake need to come off to get to the head bolts, the lift will depend on the space  you will need a set of guides to re install the head,the air ratchet is going to be kinda of useless buy a impact air or one of the new cordless model,you have a liner puller ? and pull the injector to protect the tips from getting broken  good luck    
Life is short drink the good wine first

eagle19952

3/8" air ratchet, might come in handy on 8-10 bolts on a DD. :)
Donald PH
1978 Model 05 Eagle w/Torsilastic Suspension,8V71 N, DD, Allison on 24.5's 12kw Kubota.

bevans6

Going to be pulling the oil pan off too, and you'll need a torque wrench to put it all back together.  If the heads are off, the pan is off, how could you resist not pulling all the liners out to change all the O-rings?  And if the kits are out, how can you resist not doing new piston rings?  And new rod bearings? And all of a sudden it's a complete in-frame...  These things have a way of multiplying, kind of like rabbits...
1980 MCI MC-5C, 8V-71T from a M-110 self propelled howitzer
Allison MT-647
Tatamagouche, Nova Scotia

GnarlyBus

I hear that, Bevans. I'm processing all this new information and considering all options. I have quite a few tools with me including a compressor, impact wrench, and torque wrench. I have the time to do the work. I want to learn how to do the work because I don't have a ton of money and prefer to do things myself.

The engine appears to me to be in good shape. When I use a coolant heater and start it up, barely a puff of smoke comes out. It does not appear to need a rebuild but it is tempting for the amount of work I'm already doing...

I'm glad I learned how to do a tune up this last winter so I have more confidence putting the head back in tune.
1984 MC-9 w/ 6v92TA & Allison 740
Oregon Summers & Arizona Winters
Full-Time since 2015

chessie4905

A coolant heater will make most start clean. How clean it starts Without any starting aid or heat will tell you more.
If you spend time on You tube, there are many videos to assist you in the task. Keep all fasteners in order or bagged or whatever to reinstall in proper location. One thing that can help you is to get a cheap notebook and document each procedure in dismantling. It will be of great value in reassembly, especially since time to reassembly will result in loss of memory where and when you did what.
GMC h8h 649#028 (4905)
Pennsylvania-central