Summit Fridge

[DavidInWilmNC]

I'm looking at 'fridges for the bus and the Summit CP133 has been recommended.  It's a cycle defrost with no fans and is Energy Star rated, and fairly inexpensive.  It's around 10 cu. ft, which is about the right size, plus it'll fit through a window to get it in the bus.  I plan on adding additional insulation to the sides ( 3/4-1" rigid foam board) to the sides, top, and thinner on the back between the coils and the fridge itself.  I'd obviously build this in, as that pink foam is not the look I'm going for!  Ventilation would be provided, so that would not be an issue.  Has anybody used this model, or one similar, and had good results?  I'll run it on an inverter or genset when the bus is running, or on inverter and batteries when stopped.  I realize I'll eventually have to upgrade my battery bank for this, but a larger propane 'fridge isn't in the budget at the moment, unless somebody has a good one that they want to get rid of cheap!     I'll mostly be using the bus for an occasional overnight stay without power, but generally hooked to a pole.  Any suggestions, criticisms, or general comments would be appreciated (as long as they're useful!).  Thanks.

David

[DavidInWilmNC]

Here's a link to the one in question.  http://www.ajmadison.com/cgi-bin/ajmadison/CP133.html.  I've seen 'demand defrost' fridges mentioned here before (or maybe it was BNO) and the individual had good luck with adding additional insulation, etc.

David

[Nick Badame Refrig/ACC]

Hi David,

I read all the discriptions on this refrig but, I don't seem to see the most important spec.  Amp Draw...

Thats kinda strange for them to leave that out. I'd like to know the defrost amps as well as the refrig. amp draw.

Let me know if I missed that.

Nick-

[NJT5047]

Dave, can't help with your elect fridge, but if an LP unit would suit (and if price is an issue), you may wish to check on a used takeout.  There's a huge RV salvage dealer in Liberty, NC.  I don't have a phone number, and have never bought anything from them, but before I bought a bus went over and looked around.   They had a ton of good RV appliances...at least they looked good. 
Most of the top and bottom door LP units (freezer on top?) will easily go thru an MC9 window.   Probably most side by side units would also. 
Let me know if you're interested and I'll get the name of the place.  A friend lives near there.
I can offer this, if you plan to be on a pole most of the time, an electric home style fridge will keep things colder, and would likely be less problematic, and much easier to install.   However, should you plan on boonying for any period, plans to refresh the batts would be in order. 
JR

[NewbeeMC9]

David,

Look for the amp draw and if it has a switch to turn off the defrost.  if it doesent you'll want to add one so it doesent defrost when your on batteries

My trace 4024 has a standby mode that it uses very little energy until aload is needed and then runs then.  the inverter efficiency goes down with load going down, and uses some energy when waiting for load.

I can put mine in standby and the batteries keep the fridge going for a while like parking at a sitesee or resturaunt. at 1.9 amps(label) on the fridge about 240watts and about 100 amphr(@ 24v) or 2400 watthours on the batteries about 10 hours strait time and much more on cycling time

good luck and let us know what you come up with

[DavidInWilmNC]

I've emailed the manufacturer and asked for the current draw.  Lowe's also has this model http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=209768-46-ET0WSRXMQ&lpage=none, but I'm sure it'll be less efficient than the Summit.  This one is a standard frost-free model where as the other one is 'frostless' in the refrigerator only.  I have a clamp-on ammeter that I'll take to Lowe's and see what the current draw is.  I believe I looked at that model in the past and its label indicated 6.5 amps, but I'm sure that's for when it's in defrost mode and with the heaters to reduce condensation.  It should be relatively easy to bypass the defrost heaters.  Still, the model without the heaters would likely be a bit easier to use, as I wouldn't have to remember to bypass then switch back on the defrost heaters.  I'll post whatever the draw is on the Lowe's model and what info. I get on the Summit.  Thanks.

David

[Nick Badame Refrig/ACC]

Hi David,

I purchaced this refrig. for my bus for two reasons.

1- the amp draw in refrigeration is 4.3  Defrost cycle is 6.7 which I installed a bypass switch if I choose.

2- it has held enough food for two week trips with the kids along.

3- I'm a Frigidaire dealer  LOL..

Here's the same at lowes

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=134691-2251-FLSC238DS&lpage=none

Nick-

[DavidInWilmNC]

Nice fridge, Nick.  It looks big enough to hold the kids plus food!  I'm pretty much limited to either depth or width of 24", as I don't want to remove a windshield.  I finally got them leak-free.  Do you know if Frigidaire makes something in the 9.5-11 cu. ft. range that's either frost-free or frost-less and easy on power consumption?  Thanks!

David

[belfert]

I found that many of the smaller fridges in the range you are looking for are Chinese or overseas made.  The Americans don't have much in the range, at least not with manul defrost and low amp draw.  Haier has several in that size range both with and without defrost.  The Haier I choose claims to have only a 1.2 or 1.5 amp draw.

Is there anything Nick doesn't sell? 

Brian Elfert

[Nick Badame Refrig/ACC]

Hi David,

With all the major brands, there are no small [9 to 12 cf] refrigerators that carry the energy star rating.

The Summit that you mention seems to have the * rating but, seems strange that they won't print the amp draw..

If you do your amp meter test at the store I'm sure that will tell the truth.

Good Luck
Nick-

Brian, Is there somthing you need??  I'm sure I can sell you something.....

[DavidInWilmNC]

Nick, the one I'll check is a Whirlpool, I believe, but it shows its yearly energy consumption to be higher than some 18+ cu ft models.  I'm guessing this is due to the insulation. As an aside, my 26 cu ft at home is a 13 year old Kenmore that (originally, at least) uses less kw-hours than some new models.  It's got expanded foam in the sides, top, back, bottom, and door and doesn't have any of those condensation heaters.  When I switched to that from an old '70's Coldspot, my power bill dropped around $30


LG (most likely Chinese or Korean) has a model that might be what I'm looking for.  Here's a quote from the email I received from LG just now:

"The LRTN09314SW power consumption is 2.5 amps and the current draw is 300 watts. This is the only model that is 24''. For further information or troubleshooting, you may contact us at 800-243-0000 for LG Customer Service assistance. An agent will be glad to assist you. Please feel free to contact us with any additional questions or concerns. Thank you again for contacting LG Electronics."

I think that they have a few things confused, though.  Current draw should be 2.5 amps and power consumption should be 300 watts.  The email mentions 24", but I think that's depth, according to Google searches.  Width is supposed to be 21.5"  If so, that's even better, as I have quite a bit of cabinet space / counter top area and would like to have a bit more space in the pantry. 

Brian, what model Haier do you have?  My main requirements are at least around 9+ cu. ft. and a separate door for the fridge and freezer sections. 

We'll see what the ammeter has to say.  I'd really rather have something other than a white fridge, which is what the cheap imports tend to be.

David

[DrivingMissLazy]

In addition to amps drawn, it would be beneficial to know what the power factor is. If the PF was for instance 0.9 then you would multiply the actual measured amps by .9  and multiply that by the voltage to get actual watts used. In this case actual watts would be lower by 10% than if you just used amps and volts to determine wattage.
In Davids example then the actual wattage would be 270 watts, instead of 300 watts.
Richard

Nick, the one I'll check is a Whirlpool, I believe, but it shows its yearly energy consumption to be higher than some 18+ cu ft models.  I'm guessing this is due to the insulation. As an aside, my 26 cu ft at home is a 13 year old Kenmore that (originally, at least) uses less kw-hours than some new models.  It's got expanded foam in the sides, top, back, bottom, and door and doesn't have any of those condensation heaters.  When I switched to that from an old '70's Coldspot, my power bill dropped around $30


LG (most likely Chinese or Korean) has a model that might be what I'm looking for.  Here's a quote from the email I received from LG just now:

"The LRTN09314SW power consumption is 2.5 amps and the current draw is 300 watts. This is the only model that is 24''. For further information or troubleshooting, you may contact us at 800-243-0000 for LG Customer Service assistance. An agent will be glad to assist you. Please feel free to contact us with any additional questions or concerns. Thank you again for contacting LG Electronics."

I think that they have a few things confused, though.  Current draw should be 2.5 amps and power consumption should be 300 watts.  The email mentions 24", but I think that's depth, according to Google searches.  Width is supposed to be 21.5"  If so, that's even better, as I have quite a bit of cabinet space / counter top area and would like to have a bit more space in the pantry. 

Brian, what model Haier do you have?  My main requirements are at least around 9+ cu. ft. and a separate door for the fridge and freezer sections. 

We'll see what the ammeter has to say.  I'd really rather have something other than a white fridge, which is what the cheap imports tend to be.

David

[bobh]

The place in Liberty, NC has a web address.   www.nationalrecoveryservice.com    phone is 336-622-7285.

[belfert]

Brian, Is there somthing you need??  I'm sure I can sell you something.....

A new entrance door for my bus, seriously.

I'm sure between you, Bruce Knee, and Ross, the work would get done, but I don't have the time to drive to Delaware.  The only palce that would do the work locally would just install an RV door like used on a travel trailer.  I would like something a bit better.

Brian Elfert

[Nick Badame Refrig/ACC]

Brian,

If you can work up a cad drawling to be able to send to me, I can fabricate anything to spec.

A door is a door, it's not rocket science... or it can be if you want some star trek kinda door

that makes a "tech" sound when it opens.  LOL..

Maybe we can give you one of theese cool paddels that Bruce and I have on our busses..

Nick-