used aluminum rims or new wheel simulators

[richard5933]

Is power coat an option for wheels? I'm sure that the steel could be power coated, but I'm not sure if it would hold up, especially around the area that makes contact with the lug nuts? Maybe there is a special treatment they have for the area to keep it from chipping?

I've worked with a place that does really spectacular work with power coating on a few other projects, including various metallic finishes. Cost is pretty reasonable.

[chessie4905]

There's a place around here that will clean and powder coat wheels for a reasonable price. They loonce when done. I wouldn't use it if you re using your coach in winter on salted roads. One little chip in paint and it will go down I'll fast. Look at all the hitch receivers on SUVs after a couple of years. They are all poder coated. Thanks at be an extreme example, but gives you an idea. For use in other than winter weather, they hold up well. Clean and was occasionally. Our local outfit can apply just about any shade or color

[Oonrahnjay]

Is power coat an option for wheels? ...

       Back in the old days, the company I worked for used powder coating for motorcycle frames and smaller parts like steering yokes, side stands, battery boxes, etc.  It worked great.  I tried a nice silvery shade (not to "Calfornia chrome" looking) on the wheels of my bus.  Just getting the tires installed started scratches and gouges.  Within a month, I had streaks of rust -- and that's in low-salt North Carolina.  Not a successful experiment in my experience.

[chessie4905]

If you have tires professionally installed nowadays, they can mount without buggering the finish with the new mounting machines. I still don't like powder coating for wheels. You can sand blast, prime and paint yourself or have a body man do it on the side after you get them ready.

[lostagain]

I like to feel the hubs for heat when I stop during the day. You wouldn't be able to do that with simulators on.

I don't think simulators look very good, too shiny.

JC

[Astro]

In regards to powder coating. With 40 years of experience building air and space vehicles, I can attest you will rarely find a single part powder  coated. Certainly nothing on the external envelope of the vehicle.  Powder coating, contrary to popular thought is not durable enough. We use paint and/or anodize. The former is cheap and easy to repair and the latter rarely needs repair. Just saying....

[easystreet]

When shopping for used aluminum wheels keep in mind that they also wear at the outer bead edge where it is rolls upward. They wear there because of the constant rubbing from the flexing of the casing bead edge and sidewall as the tire rolls. The outer turned up edge literally wears down in height. If the edge is sharp or has a groove worn into it beware. Each wheel manufacturer makes a go / no go contour gage that you set on the bead contact area and the top of the edge simultaneously. If the lower area of the contour gage makes full contact with the bead area / no space under it then the wheel is worn out. New aluminum wheels are the safest choice for the steer axle unless you really know what you are looking at in used wheels. Also, as mentioned, the wheels can be the cheap part if you need to change studs too.
The front studs on my Silversides are too short for aluminum wheels so I just had my steel wheels blasted and powder coated dark silver. Really looks pretty nice. Only cost me $40 each. But then I did all the tire work myself.
I know that this is slightly off topic, but still related: If any one has a really high mileage pickup with OEM aluminum wheels, you had better be checking them too at tire changes. They can also suffer from the wear issues and cracking at the bead area.  Most tire stores are good at checking them when mounting tires. Ford and Dodge factory 3/4 ton wheels in the mid 2000's were good for this.

[luvrbus]

Steel wheels look good with powered coat or simulators do also, the problem is you still have the crappy 2 piece weld wheels,aluminum wheels is the way to go

[PP]

I like to feel the hubs for heat when I stop during the day. You wouldn't be able to do that with simulators on.
JC

I completely forgot about that aspect. I'm anal when it comes to using my temp gun on the road. Simulators would put a real crimp in that.
Will

[DoubleEagle]

When it comes to using a temp gun with simulators on, I think it might be possible with the more advanced ones like the Flukes (Model 62 Max+ and up) with two laser dots that you aim at the particular spot you are trying to read. The Fluke gun reads the temperature on the surface between the two dots, therefore, if enough wheel metal shows through the simulator holes, you might get a good enough reading. Flukes are more expensive, but they are very accurate. There might be other brands that work the same way, but I doubt that the cheaper ones (like Harbor Freight) would be able to pinpoint the reading very well.

[chessie4905]

If you lean down with wheels turned one way or another, you could read the inside center of hub. Tougher on rear, but still doable.

[TomC]

What's not being said is the weight savings of aluminum over steel. On a drive axle that's 200lbs, on steer and tag 100lbs. So 400lbs lost-and that is what's called unsuspended weight-meaning the suspension has to overcome that weight each time the wheel deflects to push it back down to the road. Less weight-better ride.
When I changed my wheels from 22.5x9.00 steel with 12R-22.5 to 24.5x8.25 aluminum with 11R-24.5, could feel the difference. Even the mechanic said he's never been in such a smooth riding transit bus before.
Polishing? I use an aluminum polish with a sealer. My wheels have not been polished in 5 years and still look good-albeit a bit less shinny than fresh polished, but still nice. I have used Alcoa aluminum on two trucks, my bus, and now my truck. Only drawback to aluminum, don't kiss a curb-they'll crack. Good Luck, TomC

[luvrbus]

Another draw back to Alcoas is a tire monkey can destroy one the nut will go through the wheel before the stud breaks BT