Tapping into main fuel tank?

[jmblake]

What is the best way to tap into my main fuel tank for my diesel generator? If drilling and tapping a hole how do you not get any shavings into the tank? Thanks for any suggestions.
Jason

[Utahclaimjumper]

You already have two taps,,one to the engine and one return from the engine.>>>Dan

[Stormcloud]

As you drill then new hole, put some heavy grease on the bit end just before it drills through the tank. 
It worked pretty well for me.

I have 5 additional holes in my diesel tank. Supply and return for the Webasto, ditto for the generator, and the 5th....well, let's just say measure twice, drill once.   

[jmblake]

Dan, I read in the archives not to tap into those lines

[jmblake]

Thanks for the tip Stormcloud, also if I tap threads into the tank how do I get a pickup tube on the inside
Jason

[Stormcloud]

I used steel brake lines for the dip tubes, and secured to top of fuel tank with JB Weld.  Brake line bends real easy for corners, fuel line clamps onto the brake line easily.

[chessie4905]

Drill and tap hole for compression fitting of the size tubing you are going to use. Drill out stop in fitting permitting line to go clear through. Install fitting into tank and slide tubing in to desired depth. You can add some curvature as necessary. Do Not put clear to bottom, inserting only down 2/3 rds or less. One to void sucking up dirt and two to running tank out of fuel for main engine. Tighten flare nut once you are satisfied to location. I would then add a coupler or check valve to tubing just outside of tank for easy removal.keep in mind that most tanks aren't that thick and a fitting may not be that rigid, so it should have some support upon exit of line. A soldered bung would be best but may require removing tank or talent with a soldering torch and empty tank.

[jmblake]

Thanks for the suggestions, Never thought of drilling out the fitting to let the tube pass through. also found this but requires a pretty big hole

http://www.fueltankparts.com/aluminum-bolt-in-pickup-tube-return-assembly.html

[buswarrior]

Are there no block-off plates on the face of the tank somewhere?

remove plate, install new lines in the plate and return to position?

happy coaching!
buswarrior

[luvrbus]

There should be a plate on top to install the pickup and return line,the tank on a MCI is so thin there is no tapping with out a a weld on bung for the lines.The shavings are no big deal they fall to the bottom of the tank and stay because the pickup for the fuel system is 2 inches above the bottom of the tank.You drain the fuel tank you see all kinds of crap from rubber gaskets to nuts and bolts  

[jmblake]

BW and Cliff I don't have any extra plates any where I could see, On the top all I can see is the strap that holds the tank in. I wasn't sure how thick the tank was so maybe something like in the link I posted would be the best way, it has a plate that goes on the inside as long as you don't drop it into the tank 
Jason

[TomC]

When I dropped my fuel tank to tap into it to add a fuel gauge, I discovered it had two 5 bolt access plates. I removed one and dropped in the fuel gauge sending unit with a perfect fit (of course with the proper height sending unit ordered). With the other 5 bolt access plate, I removed it then made my own Diesel generator pickup, with the pickup tube about 2 inches shy of the bottom of the tank so the generator will run out of fuel before the big engine. And also drilled a return. This home made pickup has been successful running the generator for 23 years and over 1,500 hours. Good Luck, TomC

[Scott & Heather]

I've had both of my bus's fuel tanks out so I'm pretty familiar with them. I even patched several pin hole leaks in my current coach tank using JB weld with the tank removed. I can vouch that the metal is indeed super thin. No way on earth you'll be able to tap any threads. FYI, if you have a place you can pump your fuel off to, it's not hard to remove the tank if you want to. I've now done it several times and it's really pretty easy.


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[chessie4905]

If you are intent on doing this, I recommend removing tank. Thoroughly clean it while you have it out, have bung installed in desired location. Verify proper resistance change of movement of fuel sending unit before reinstall. Clean and paint exterior of tank and straps.With a nice clean tank, you'll go through fewer fuel filters. Cliffs right about all the crap lying in bottom like sludge. I used about a gallon of laquer thinner and about 3 cups of screened 3/8 diameter limestone to clean tank. Rocked tank around till stones cleaned it up nice and clean. Then flushed with some laundry detergent and hot water,repeat, and then rinse with hot water and drain and allow to completely dry. OR you could take somewhere to have it steam cleaned, making sure they are thorough. GM Buffalo series use a long logitudinal tank with baffles every two feet, so it is difficult to steam clean.

[edvanland]

I must have been lucks. My MCI 7 had a 3 or 4 inch plate on top in the front which was easy to get to. We took it off and drilled two holes through which we put fittings for the fuel pick up and return. We left the pick up tube 12 inches above the bottom, be sure to do that, so we could not run the bus out of fuel. When the gen runs out of fuel we still have 44 gallons left in the tank. I had previously pulled my tank due to some leaks and had it cleaned, repaired and then I painted it. Good luck.