Final decision made today on batteries

[TomC]

I have 2-31 starting batteries. Since 1994, I'm on my third set (just installed 3 months ago). Using Duracell regular wet battery. Got them for $185.00 for the two at Bulbs and Batteries. Starting batteries can be jumped through a dash switched relay to the 2-8D AGM batteries for both charging the deeps going down the road, and for starting boost. Good Luck, TomC

[windtrader]

Tom,

I have a manual coach to house battery bank disconnect. I've thinking about converting to a switching relay with the cobtrol inside the coach like you. I'll find a lighted switch, a lot easier to know state of battery banks.

[eagle19952]

Good idea Jim. I'm on it


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5 years post AGM install, no battery terminal coating and no corrosion. nada, zip, none. they don't.

[Scott & Heather]

This isn't an issue at all for me just as Tony said. My generators both have a pull start option if each of their batteries die. I mean think about it, what are the odds that my combined house and start battery bank gets depleted, and both of my twin paralleled generator batteries die? Not going to happen. But if it does, I can pull start both of them. I am fully and completely convinced that I made a smart move spending my $900 on 4 deep cycle AGM group 31's and creating a combined start and house battery bank. Just makes perfect sense to me.


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[luvrbus]

What are planning on running off your battery bank I looked at those dual service batteries they were only 105 amp hrs ea, so you have a 210 AH battery bank @ 24v that is not going to run much for any length of time through a inverter you better keep the little Honda tuned up     

[Scott & Heather]

This is just the start of my bank. I'll add more later. I only want to run my LED ceiling lights and my samsung fridge which is rated at 1 amp. Literally. I don't boondock much, but sometimes on tour I like to shut the gennies down at night. With a big enough bank I might be able to go a partial weekend generator free.


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[Iceni John]

and my samsung fridge which is rated at 1 amp. Literally.

Tell me more.   I've never heard of a fridge that needs only one measly amp.   With a fridge like that I wouldn't need to use a fridger (a chest freezer converted to run as a fridge) instead.

John

[Oonrahnjay]

Tell me more.   I've never heard of a fridge that needs only one measly amp.   With a fridge like that I wouldn't need to use a fridger (a chest freezer converted to run as a fridge) instead.

John

    Yeah, one amp of what?   My Novacool is rated at 48 watts, steady state; 60 watts, max cool.   That's 4/5 Amp @ 12.8V or 1/2 Amp @ 120V.

[thomasinnv]

I'm guessing he meant 1 amp @ 120v. That battery bank won't last long running a fridge.

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[Scott & Heather]

Correct once compressor has started it uses only about 1 to 1.5 amps at 120v. Many people on various forums have said that this inverter Samsung fridge uses something like 70amps a day. I haven't worked out the math but if I get another 4 of these deep cycles for a total of 8, that would be 440 amp hours which I would think could get me through a day or two of led lights fridge and LED tv?


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[windtrader]

Scott, I like the question mark. Same as mine. I' still trying the best ways to do an energy audit to ensure sufficient energy is both generated and stored. There are many variables to consider beyond raw watts drawn down. Long subject for some other threads but my first easy step is connecting a device that reports energy used over time as well as real time. At least that way, I'll can get a gross number of watts used over specific periods of time. Will feed future purchases for more house batteries and sizing of solar panels and charge controller.

[Scott & Heather]

Yeah I have a kill a watt meter. Time to get it out and put it to use I suppose


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[bobofthenorth]

There's so much you don't know until you do it and get your own real world numbers.  I don't remember whether you have a state of charge meter Scott.  If you don't you really do need one.  Batteries don't die - they get killed.  Just the idle load of the inverter can be a significant draw.  Unless its really hot overnight your fridge will likely hold through the night without any power.  We used to shut the inverter off completely overnight on the boat.  Our bus had an absorption fridge so we ran it on propane when we needed to conserve power.

[Scott & Heather]

We've killed our fridge overnight before too. It stays cold. Again as long as ambient temps aren't hot.  My question is how to reconcile a 24 volt battery bank when I'm giving away half the amp hours because they are in series.


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[windtrader]

Simple, double up and run a parallel bank.