The bus has been insulated!!!!!!!
 

The bus has been insulated!!!!!!!

Started by peterbylt, August 10, 2017, 09:43:18 AM

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peterbylt

I have reached a Milestone in the conversion.

A lot of stuff had to be installed before the spray Foam insulation went in, mostly electrical, conduit, wring, light fixtures, the surface rust needed to be dealt with and everything cleaned, sealed and painted.

I had called around to all the big insulators in the area and was told by all of them that they were not interested.

One guy that does refrigerated Trailers told me he would do it with open Cell foam for $5,000, NOT !!!!!!!

I found one guy that said he would do it, but kept putting me off.

I thought I would have to do it myself and was pricing out the kits when I happened to do a Spray Foam search on Craigslist and found a local guy, EliteFoam.

He came over and measured up the Bus and gave me an estimate for much lower than anything I had been given or even heard of before.

Showed up when he said he would and did an outstanding job, completely insulated the Bus with Closed Cell, trimmed it, and cleaned it up afterward.

I would Highly recommend anyone in the Tampa Bay Area that needs Spray foam to contact these guys.

I spent the two days before masking everything off, spent over a $100 in masking materials.

Money and time well spent, anything not masked and covered will get overspray, airborne residue or droppings on it.









Peter
Tampa Fl,

1989 MCI 96A3, 8V92TA

Darkspeed

4106 6V92TA MUI + V730 8" Lowered Floor & Polished > http://www.busconversions.com/bbs/index.php?topic=24673.0 QuietBox > http://www.busconversions.com/bbs/index.php?topic=29946.0
It's all math and metal...

jcdillin

Looks great! Did you have him do inside the lower walls as well?
Jeremiah
Jacksonville, FL

1995 MCI MC12
6V-92T HT740

Darkspeed

Do you plan on doing a thermal break on the metal ribs?
4106 6V92TA MUI + V730 8" Lowered Floor & Polished > http://www.busconversions.com/bbs/index.php?topic=24673.0 QuietBox > http://www.busconversions.com/bbs/index.php?topic=29946.0
It's all math and metal...

PP


peterbylt

Quote from: jcdillin on August 10, 2017, 09:59:22 AM
Looks great! Did you have him do inside the lower walls as well?

No, I did not have the inside of the lower walls spray foamed, a decision I may come to regret.
I plan to sandwich some foam board in when sheathing the walls.

Quote from: Darkspeed on August 10, 2017, 11:28:37 AM
Do you plan on doing a thermal break on the metal ribs?

Yes, I definitely plan on a thermal break on the metal rib, possibly some foam insulation tape, don't want to go to thick, do not want to use up any of the height, at 6 foot I fit fine right now.
I have not decided yet what I will use, any suggestions would be appreciated.


With just the insulation done, a few of the windows open and a fan running I can notice a 10 or 15 degree difference working in the bus in the hot Florida sun.

Peter

Tampa Fl,

1989 MCI 96A3, 8V92TA

jcdillin

Since you are so close I would take off the lower side panels, that's where I found most of my nightmares. Any cracks in the window frames will lead to rust in that area. The fiberglass insulation doesn't help.

That's just one of my panels.



For a thermal break I used floor underlayment and 1/4" Wood strips, i'm 6'3 and didn't want to make the ceiling any lower than it needed to be.

You can see it here as I was installing the tongue and groove.

Jeremiah
Jacksonville, FL

1995 MCI MC12
6V-92T HT740

Jim Eh.

Quote from: jcdillin on August 11, 2017, 10:37:39 AM
Since you are so close I would take off the lower side panels, that's where I found most of my nightmares. Any cracks in the window frames will lead to rust in that area. The fiberglass insulation doesn't help.

Ditto
"Some days it's just not worth chewing through the restraints"
Jim Eh.
1996 MC12
6V92TA / HT741D
Winnipeg, MB.

pabusnut

Ditto on removing the lower panels.

Even though I have a GM which is "all aluminum" there were some steel ribs that had rust that I didn't want going any further.

Yes, it will be painful and time consuming, but in this case ignorance is not bliss.

Steve
Steve Toomey
PAbusnut

Darkspeed

If it were me, I would remove the lower panels, repair the rust, prime it really well, cut isocyanate insulation panels to fit the cavity leaving about two inches gap all the way around, then fill the gap with isocyanate spray foam to seal it. - that is if you did not want to have they guy come back and spray the cavities.

https://sprayfoamkit.com/products/spray-foam-insulation/foam-it-12-patch-repair-kit/

https://sprayfoamkit.com/products/spray-foam-insulation/foam-it-green-102-closed-cell-spray-foam-insulation-kit/

You do need some sort of thermal break, wood works ok but I have found pvc works a little better even though it is close on the chart >

http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/thermal-conductivity-d_429.html

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Royal-Mouldings-6510-1-4-in-x-1-3-4-in-x-8-ft-PVC-Composite-White-Lattice-Moulding-0651008005/202089995
4106 6V92TA MUI + V730 8" Lowered Floor & Polished > http://www.busconversions.com/bbs/index.php?topic=24673.0 QuietBox > http://www.busconversions.com/bbs/index.php?topic=29946.0
It's all math and metal...