Ran the batteries dead for first time

[Zephod]

I suggest that adding chargers without knowing what underlies is a band-aid.

You need to know where the power is going, and then YOU decide when or whether it will be allowed.

Fix or replace crappy cut-off switches.

Cut-off switches are for prissy people that don't want to get their hands grubby by handling cabling.

I left mine in the mix and left it switched on because the extra length of cable makes for easier reach to the terminal. The hand wheel simply because I don't want to have to find my wrench each time.

Knowing where the power leak is, is the first move to fixing it. I'm not sure yet but then it's not high on my list of priorities to find it and fix it yet. Thus my bandaid hand nut does for the moment.

As for trickle chargers etc... waste of money. A hand nut is far cheaper!


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[Billysurf]

What's the best strategy in the event that starter batteries die and you just need to get to the next destination?  Should you charge them with a charger (and if so what kind)?  OR is it best to have spares on board?  Can batteries sit for years like this?  We have 2 12V in series.

[brmax]

At your site with electric i would make a good amount of time and individually charge  15 amp.
It will take a good time for each hooked for 12v. To get back at 100% Maybe all night, a higher rate charge needs especially spec. monitored.
I would use other means for any lighting before having a spare set of big batteries.
What size are they at the present 8d or some other 31 possibly, curious.


Floyd

[brmax]

All means have a good weekend

Floyd

[buswarrior]

Blunt answer: Don't let the starter batteries die.

Either through knowledge and self discipline, or by design.

Murder on purpose or manslaughter by accident, the batteries are still being ruined.

By design your goal is all hotel loads, everything you will use power for, go to the house batteries, no loads on start batteries when camping, otherwise, it WILL happen.

daddysgirl, if a centre tap has been added, a 12 volt line off the middle of the pair of batteries that make up the 24 volt, it must be switched/cut-off same as the 24 volt switch, in order to protect the batteries for the style of storage Branderson is following, no source of power available.

It is popular to run a centre tap for radios/CB other 12 volt accessories, however the unbalanced charging rears its head, ruins batteries... the whole world of battery equalizers would muddy this thread.

Shut off isn't shut off if something is still connected, (except the negative to ground).

happy coaching!
buswarrior

[Van]

Well said BW!

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[Iceni John]

What's the best strategy in the event that starter batteries die and you just need to get to the next destination?  Should you charge them with a charger (and if so what kind)?  OR is it best to have spares on board?  Can batteries sit for years like this?  We have 2 12V in series.

Run a pair of 4/0 cables from the house batteries directly to the starter, through a beefy cutoff switch such as a Cole-Hersee M750 or a Blue Sea 9001 so you can easily boost your start batteries if needed.   Easy!   Some folk use a remotely-actuated heavy-duty contactor instead of a switch, but the idea's the same.   With some solar charging and a house battery intertie, you will never be stranded again, ever.

John

[Billysurf]

NICE!  Thanks John!

[eagle19952]

why not just start a generator and plug in a charger....

[Iceni John]

why not just start a generator and plug in a charger....

You're boondocking on National Forest land when you hear that a wild fire's approaching you, and fast.   Your start batteries are dead.   I don't think I would prefer to be charging my batteries in those circumstances  -  I just need to start NOW and get moving NOW.

OK, that's an extreme situation, but I know what I'd prefer!

John

[daddysgirl]

Blunt answer: Don't let the starter batteries die.

Either through knowledge and self discipline, or by design.

Murder on purpose or manslaughter by accident, the batteries are still being ruined.

By design your goal is all hotel loads, everything you will use power for, go to the house batteries, no loads on start batteries when camping, otherwise, it WILL happen.

daddysgirl, if a centre tap has been added, a 12 volt line off the middle of the pair of batteries that make up the 24 volt, it must be switched/cut-off same as the 24 volt switch, in order to protect the batteries for the style of storage Branderson is following, no source of power available.

It is popular to run a centre tap for radios/CB other 12 volt accessories, however the unbalanced charging rears its head, ruins batteries... the whole world of battery equalizers would muddy this thread.

Shut off isn't shut off if something is still connected, (except the negative to ground).

happy coaching!
buswarrior

Thank you. I have a schematic that shows the 12-volt tap, and my introduction into MC8 electrical systems was a result of that wire. It kills the right battery...quickly.
And having the 2 8D setup (the original) is why the ONLY thing they do is run a 0000 cable from the batteries to the rear stud on the frame. My house batteries aren't connected in any way to the start batteries, but that's just my preference.
I just wanted him to look for the wire. If he has one, that's one issue he can quickly solve. Thanks!

[eagle19952]

You're boondocking on National Forest land when you hear that a wild fire's approaching you, and fast.   Your start batteries are dead.   I don't think I would prefer to be charging my batteries in those circumstances  -  I just need to start NOW and get moving NOW.

OK, that's an extreme situation, but I know what I'd prefer!

John

a good charger will take 5 or 10 minutes...an evac  notice in the event of fire is usually 2-3 days. and i have a toad and insurance. but, to each their own as busnuts are known to do

[Zephod]

a good charger will take 5 or 10 minutes...an evac  notice in the event of fire is usually 2-3 days. and i have a toad and insurance. but, to each their own as busnuts are known to do

Shh.... don't upset the doom mongers. I was once told that it was a silly idea to put tanks under a bus where they could get ripped off by vegetation. At that point my mind boggled as to the kind of terrain I'm supposed to be driving over in a BUS! Clearly more strenuous off roading than I've ever done before and am ever likely to.




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[buswarrior]

I would be more concerned about the poorly wired/home gas fitter/leaking fuel/indoor BBQ installation/dumpster acquired appliance "camper unit" parked next to me bursting into flames, and having to start and move on an emergency basis...

Just to fuel the paranoia?

happy coaching!
buswarrior

[DoubleEagle]

Shh.... don't upset the doom mongers. I was once told that it was a silly idea to put tanks under a bus where they could get ripped off by vegetation. At that point my mind boggled as to the kind of terrain I'm supposed to be driving over in a BUS! Clearly more strenuous off roading than I've ever done before and am ever likely to.

That was good advice for a schoolie. Many of them are used for remote hunting and camping situations where they are used on rough roads because they have higher clearances. (That's why some use paint brushes and rollers for painting, it makes it easier to touch up the scrapes from branches and rocks). A highway bus would not be appropriate for those kinds of situations, unless you drive for Greyhound and are confused as to where you are.