Water heater repair?

PP · May 23, 2017, 06:24:02 PM

Our water heater (Atwood 6 gal lp/elect) started leaking this winter. It was a sloooow drip, so I ignored it for a while, planning to replace it when the weather warmed up. I ordered a new replacement on line from some drip in Michigan that never shipped it. Buyer protection, I got my monies back. Unfortunately, I scheduled the swap for this week. Since I didn't have a new one to put in, I pulled the old one and hooked it to pressure and found the leak. After a good sanding, I applied a nice layer of JB weld. Now someone has mentioned that JB doesn't seal well on aluminum. IS THAT TRUE?

I know that I had to at least slow it down, but I'm letting it cure overnight and will turn the water back on in the AM. So, do I get a good night's sleep, or should I be worrying that I spent the time and effort for naught?
BTW- If this doesn't work, it's Scott's (Scott and Heather) fault because I got the idea of JB after he did his fuel tank repairs with it and swore by it.

Thanks in advance for any first hand knowledge being shared.
Will

Geoff · May 23, 2017, 06:37:56 PM

What do you have to lose? I bet it will work, IF you roughed up the whole area with sandpaper or a wire brush before the JB Weld. Also, for your information, there is an epoxy for aluminum.

--Geoff

gumpy · May 23, 2017, 07:03:28 PM

My money is on failure. Water will find a way through it.

But then again, I'm a realist.

Geoff · May 23, 2017, 07:13:27 PM

Quote from: gumpy on May 23, 2017, 07:03:28 PM
My money is on failure. Water will find a way through it.

But then again, I'm a realist.

Well, the JB Weld won't let any water through the putty, the possible problem would be at the surface mating of the putty and the aluminum.

--Geoff

P.S. There IS one product I can swear by, and that is the 2-part gas tank epoxy repair stick. You cut off as much as you need, roll it together with your fingers, and it will stick to a gas or diesel fuel tank that is still leaking; or an oil pan with a hole in it, and actually stop the leak. Amazing stuff.

gumpy · May 23, 2017, 07:53:19 PM

I should have phrased it, "Water will find it's way around it!". You're correct. It won't get through it. It will get between it and the tank.

I think I tried that putty stuff once. Don't recall what it was for, but it didn't perform as I expected. I think it was primarily because I was impatient and didn't give it enough time to cure. I tried the two part JB on the oil pan on my truck. It slowed it down some for awhile, but it's still leaking. Again, I think it's getting between the pan and compound.

DoubleEagle · May 23, 2017, 08:02:34 PM

I used some two-part epoxy to fix a rusted out air tank as a temporary fix back in 1996. It's still there, and holding full pressure. Could be a fluke, but it worked well for me. (Your results may vary).

Iceni John · May 23, 2017, 08:41:16 PM

Does the sacrificial anode need to be replaced? I'm surprised how quickly they erode, so I now always keep a spare on hand. An anode won't completely prevent corrosion, but it slows it to a manageable rate.

John

Utahclaimjumper · May 24, 2017, 12:51:26 AM

Atwood heaters don't use anodes.>>>Dan

Oonrahnjay · May 24, 2017, 05:48:15 AM

What's often a great big part of the "success" of putty/epoxy/stick-on repairs is the preparation of the repair area. Most of those require that rust or other loose or porous corrosion be removed, that the area be cleaned of any contaminants -- especially oil and grease, and some need to have the repair area roughed-up with an abrasive like sandpaper, emery cloth, or steel wool. On the other hand, I've seen people stuck on the side of the road in the rain in 37 degree weather with the back of a vehicle covered in oil; all they could do was slap a half-a-handful of goo on a leak and they got away with it. Kinda how ya hold ya mouth, I guess ...

luvrbus · May 24, 2017, 06:08:02 AM

Way back in my younger days Humble (Exxon) developed a 2 part epoxy to patch the storage tanks when one would spring a leak to keep from draining the tank to weld the leak.

It was Humble Weld 7501 I still have the quart cans of the of the A & B,I have often thought that is where the J & B originated from

PP · May 24, 2017, 06:35:46 AM

Okay, about an hour ago (5:30 AM) I went out and turned the water back on. I had a slow drip from the outlet fitting which was easily fixed. So far, the heater is warm and not leaking. I did sand the heck out of the entire area before applying the JB and I also shook it up and flushed it with a hose as best I could do get out all the crud buildup. I'm going to keep and eye on it for a few days and if it's still dry in there, I'll pack all the junk back on top of it and forget about it again. (There's a slide in shelf over it where I store the towbar and other necessary items.
BTW-I tried that stick stuff too a long time ago on the fuel tank of an old Willys-it didn't work for me. But I was soaked in fuel from literally 'wet' sanding the area first. Maybe it just doesn't work in Minnesota, huh Gumpy?

I'll keep everyone posted on the hopeful success of this fix. Thanks for the encouraging and not so encouraging remarks,
Will

daddysgirl · May 24, 2017, 08:14:19 AM

Just my humble...
Water Weld, covered with Steel weld. Taper the ends after it dries. Best stuff in the world...drinking water safe and made by JB.

uncle ned · May 24, 2017, 08:38:38 AM

In my younger days a long time ago. I had a 47 chev coupe. It was lowered and on a gate crossing I hit the fuel tank and cracked it.

It was before J B days and I was to young to take it and have it welded.

I used Octongon soap to seal it It lasted about a week before I had to replace it

Just scrape the old off and clean and rub some more on.

Lasted till I wrecked the car.

uncle ned

Gary Hatt - Publisher BCM · May 24, 2017, 10:04:36 AM

Bubble Gum will work for a while too.

Everyone should carry a few sticks of Bubble Gum along with their roll of Duct tape. Once a leak finds its way thru metal, corrosion has already begun. If you fix one leak, it won't be long before it finds its way thru another hole as the metal has already been compromised. Rather than fix one leak then maybe another later when it is at the worst possible time, in the middle of nowhere, and you then have water damage, IMHO it is not worth the hassle. Rather than fix pin hole leaks, I generally just replace the entire unit then you will have another 10 years of a worry free water heater. They ain't that expensive to replace and compared to what water damage can do, it is not worth messing with it should be only a two hour job to just replace it and forget it.

PP · May 24, 2017, 12:02:04 PM

Quote from: Gary Hatt - Publisher BCM on May 24, 2017, 10:04:36 AM
Bubble Gum will work for a while too. Everyone should carry a few sticks of Bubble Gum along with their roll of Duct tape. Once a leak finds its way thru metal, corrosion has already begun. If you fix one leak, it won't be long before it finds its way thru another hole as the metal has already been compromised. Rather than fix one leak then maybe another later when it is at the worst possible time, in the middle of nowhere, and you then have water damage, IMHO it is not worth the hassle. Rather than fix pin hole leaks, I generally just replace the entire unit then you will have another 10 years of a worry free water heater. They ain't that expensive to replace and compared to what water damage can do, it is not worth messing with it should be only a two hour job to just replace it and forget it.

Gary, that was plan 'A' that you just suggested. I had to go to plan 'B' as I explained in my OP. I'm sure I will be back to plan 'A' again in the near future. But hey, the holiday is here and I have other things to do besides crawl around in the belly of the beast.

Oh, and then as recommended, there's always bubble gum