Antenna Holes
 

Antenna Holes

Started by peterbylt, May 15, 2017, 09:20:43 AM

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peterbylt

I knew there were at least two broken off antenna bases, but when I got up there while I was replacing the Marker lights I counted nine places where antenna had been mounted at one time or another. When they needed a new antenna rather than remove the old base they just drilled another hole and mounted a new Antenna.

All in the area around the driver's seat.

I want to remove all these potential leaks and repair the holes. My first thought is to remove all the old bases bring it down to bare metal and weld in the holes, second choice remove all the old bases and fiberglass glass them.

Any suggestions?

I suppose I could just use them to mount solar panels.



Peter
Tampa Fl,

1989 MCI 96A3, 8V92TA

Iceni John

Quote from: peterbylt on May 15, 2017, 09:20:43 AM
I suppose I could just use them to mount solar panels.



Peter


No!   PV panels need very sturdy mounts to withstand their windload driving down the road at 70 MPH.   You should attach them to or through the roof ribs, not just to the skin.

John
1990 Crown 2R-40N-552 (the Super II):  6V92TAC / DDEC II / Jake,  HT740.     Hecho en Chino.
2kW of tiltable solar.
Behind the Orange Curtain, SoCal.

lostagain

Clean up around the hole. Then rivet a piece of aluminum sheet, after caulking real good with Sikaflex or similar. Then a dab of caulk on top of the rivets too.

JC
JC
Blackie AB
1977 MC5C, 6V92/HT740 (sold)
2007 Country Coach Magna, Cummins ISX (sold)

gg04

When we first got ours home we soda blasted to clean aluminum and welded every hole and crack... caulk on a roof will finally always leak..rdw
If you personally have not done it  , or saw it done.. do not say it cannot be done...1960 4104 6L71ta ddec Falfurrias Tx

PP

Quote from: lostagain on May 15, 2017, 10:13:54 AM
Clean up around the hole. Then rivet a piece of aluminum sheet, after caulking real good with Sikaflex or similar. Then a dab of caulk on top of the rivets too.

JC

This is also what we did when we first got our bus almost ten years ago and still no leaks. Just don't use any cheap latex caulking that you find at the hardware store. One of our holes was 4" diameter, so this method does work.

buswarrior

As you clean each one, a simple bolt and washer might do the job with little muss or fuss?

Use good quality caulk... do NOT use a silicone product... nothing else will stick, it won't take paint, and it will leak again...

happy coaching!
buswarrior
Frozen North, Greater Toronto Area
new project: 1995 MCI 102D3, Cat 3176b, Eaton Autoshift

Oonrahnjay

Quote from: buswarrior on May 16, 2017, 09:42:51 AM... do NOT use a silicone product... nothing else will stick, it won't take paint, and it will leak again...

buswarrior 

     Yes.  do NOT.
Bruce H; Wallace (near Wilmington) NC
1976 Daimler (British) Double-Decker Bus; 34' long

(New Email -- brucebearnc@ (theGoogle gmail place) .com)

eagle19952

Quote from: Oonrahnjay on May 16, 2017, 11:29:44 AM
     Yes.  do NOT.

it is only good for ill fitted Formica kitchen counter tops..oh wait...not even for that...it mildews :)
Donald PH
1978 Model 05 Eagle w/Torsilastic Suspension,8V71 N, DD, Allison on 24.5's 12kw Kubota.

PP

I forgot to add that we also put snow white roof coating on every 2-3 years after giving it a good cleaning. That keeps direct sun and the elements off the seal jobs.
HTH

peterbylt

Thank you for all the great ideas.

First I am going to try and weld them up with some round pieces and the Tig Welder.
If that proves to be beyond my welding abilities I will sikaflex 252 and rivet patches.

I need to get these holes repaired before the Spray foam insulation gets applied in the near future.

I would like the repairs to be as permanent as possible.

The Sikaflex 252 worked really good attaching the panels over where the windows were removed.

A good cleaning and a white roof coating, most likely Kool Seal are in my future.

Peter

Tampa Fl,

1989 MCI 96A3, 8V92TA