New Member Huntsville TX - Looking at a GMC 4905A and a MCI 102A3

[ScharpeStGuy]

All, here is a picture of the paint bubbles on the 1990 MCI 102a3 at Sawyers Bus Sales. What do you all think? Just the paint bubbling or is it indicative of rust underneath? Sawyers said the panel appears to be Galvalume or Galvanized Aluminum. The paint on this coach is one of the big items against it as the clear coat is pealing off and the bubbling occurring on both sides in the same areas of the coach.

Any recommendations for Paint work that is affordable? I have read about Navarro's paint shop across the border from Yuma, anyone closer to Houston Texas or Virginia?

Thanks

[uncle ned]

Poke a hole in it and see.  best way to tell.

just a thing to tell me to check a lot of thing for rust.

uncle ned

[DoubleEagle]

All, here is a picture of the paint bubbles on the 1990 MCI 102a3 at Sawyers Bus Sales. What do you all think? Just the paint bubbling or is it indicative of rust underneath? Sawyers said the panel appears to be Galvalume or Galvanized Aluminum. The paint on this coach is one of the big items against it as the clear coat is pealing off and the bubbling occurring on both sides in the same areas of the coach.

Any recommendations for Paint work that is affordable? I have read about Navarro's paint shop across the border from Yuma, anyone closer to Houston Texas or Virginia?

Thanks

It is corrosion under the paint, probably white aluminum oxide. It will take stripping, sanding, sandblasting, and chemical treatment to be ready for painting. That will up the cost of a good paint job. If it is a good coach otherwise, use this to get the price down $10-15,000.

[ScharpeStGuy]

Here is another pic I found looks like it may be the "white aluminum oxide" you referenced DoubleEagle.

[eagle19952]

It is corrosion under the paint, probably white aluminum oxide. It will take stripping, sanding, sandblasting, and chemical treatment to be ready for painting. That will up the cost of a good paint job. If it is a good coach otherwise, use this to get the price down $10-15,000.

Really ? .... So haggling a $15K discount on a $20K bus.... I highly doubt that is going to happen....

[luvrbus]

Really ? .... So haggling a $15K discount on a $20K bus.... I highly doubt that is going to happen....

LMAO

Where do live in Houston I plan on letting the convicts at (TCI) Ellis Unit in Huntsville do mine when the time comes  they work cheap

[jackhanow]

It's best to look at the front under the drivers seat. Check that area. It's either good or bad. Trust me. Look at the back wall of the rear compartment and check the bottom of the walls where they are rivited to the floor braces. If the aluminum is eaten then the steel is worse. The stuff outside is not the problem it's on the inside that tells all. Look under it make sure the support on the bottom aren't sagging or flattened. make sure the sides are smooth even and not krinkleing especially above the rear axel. Bulging rivits are a bad sign as well. Look at the brackets that attach the sides to the main support beam under the floor. Check at the floor from underneath at every place you can look. If you can spot heavy rust at the easy places to look then is probably worse where you can't look. I knew this bus had rust issues but I bought it anyway because it's been worth the things it's taught me to look for as I decide my next bus. This one drives great. Even in a cross wind. Most 2 strokes leak oil. Especially when idling or from idling. Auto is the way to go. Especially in traffic. Check tread wear look for cupping or side wear. The blower gear box is probably just over full. They stop leaking when the level get back to normal. Hard to see when filling it and the level plug don't come out easy so they just dump some in for good measure. They think when it quits leaking it's out of oil. Sometimes sight glasses play tricks too. You look it's full, you go back the next morn says empty but you can't find the leak. You stop at the next truck stop, get the lube, open the door and it's full. This happens on both my buses so now I don't believe them and just keep an eye on stuff. Best just start looking at buses you see around you. Just to get a feel of what to look for. Be picky. It's a large machine with a lot of moving parts and they are big as well.

[Scott & Heather]

That's most certainly going to be white aluminum powder...ours had that. We had to replace panels cause of it. In fact we had our bus down to the frame to fix the rust, so yeah, try to avoid that if you can...was this coach ever in fleet service? If not, it may not be too bad at all, but if so, please do crawl under the drivers seat/spare tire area. If you like what you see, go for it.


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[DoubleEagle]

Really ? .... So haggling a $15K discount on a $20K bus.... I highly doubt that is going to happen....

The asking price for the bus in the picture is $30,000, not $20,000, and yes, haggling can occur when you point out the cost of deficiencies. A bus is only worth what someone in their informed mind thinks it is worth and is actually going to pay for it. It is a buyers market currently, and if a sale is going to happen, sellers need to be flexible. You might not get a $15,000 discount, but it is prudent to try every bargaining angle possible. It will be a lot of work to get that coach's paint looking good whether it is done by prisoners or over the border (or both).

[DoubleEagle]

So is it a worth while bus, was the question. I believe these folks were just trying to get some advice on a big decision.

Yes, that is the main question alright, but when evaluating a bus you should not be deceived as to what model bus you are getting or what year it was originally manufactured in. If indeed a Model 05 bus built in the 1970's is being presented as a 1980's Model 10, the buyer should know that. The current condition is critical, but there should be no misconception of what it really is. Someone new to getting into buses can be easily tricked, and it is not responsible for us to not say something about it.

[DoubleEagle]

It's best to look at the front under the drivers seat. Check that area. It's either good or bad. Trust me. Look at the back wall of the rear compartment and check the bottom of the walls where they are rivited to the floor braces. If the aluminum is eaten then the steel is worse. The stuff outside is not the problem it's on the inside that tells all. Look under it make sure the support on the bottom aren't sagging or flattened. make sure the sides are smooth even and not krinkleing especially above the rear axel. Bulging rivits are a bad sign as well. Look at the brackets that attach the sides to the main support beam under the floor. Check at the floor from underneath at every place you can look. If you can spot heavy rust at the easy places to look then is probably worse where you can't look. I knew this bus had rust issues but I bought it anyway because it's been worth the things it's taught me to look for as I decide my next bus. This one drives great. Even in a cross wind. Most 2 strokes leak oil. Especially when idling or from idling. Auto is the way to go. Especially in traffic. Check tread wear look for cupping or side wear. The blower gear box is probably just over full. They stop leaking when the level get back to normal. Hard to see when filling it and the level plug don't come out easy so they just dump some in for good measure. They think when it quits leaking it's out of oil. Sometimes sight glasses play tricks too. You look it's full, you go back the next morn says empty but you can't find the leak. You stop at the next truck stop, get the lube, open the door and it's full. This happens on both my buses so now I don't believe them and just keep an eye on stuff. Best just start looking at buses you see around you. Just to get a feel of what to look for. Be picky. It's a large machine with a lot of moving parts and they are big as well.

Good advice. I would add that the corrosion under the dash can lead to a lot of air leaks that will keep you hotter in the summer and cooler in the winter if they are not repaired or sealed. The outside appearance is not as important as the guts of the bus, but it does have importance in pride of ownership and what your non-mechanical spouse thinks of the bus, and then there are those snooty campgrounds that decide they are filled for the night when they are not.

[eagle19952]

The asking price for the bus in the picture is $30,000, not $20,000, and yes, haggling can occur when you point out the cost of deficiencies. A bus is only worth what someone in their informed mind thinks it is worth and is actually going to pay for it. It is a buyers market currently, and if a sale is going to happen, sellers need to be flexible. You might not get a $15,000 discount, but it is prudent to try every bargaining angle possible. It will be a lot of work to get that coach's paint looking good whether it is done by prisoners or over the border (or both).

will you haggle for the buyer 

[ScharpeStGuy]

LMAO

Where do live in Houston I plan on letting the convicts at (TCI) Ellis Unit in Huntsville do mine when the time comes  they work cheap

I live very close to the Ellis unit actually. Found this link on the Bus Refurbishment that TDCJ offers however it appears it's only for city/county/government and select non-profits. See link here: http://www.tci.tdcj.state.tx.us/services/bus.aspx

[luvrbus]

If they are not busy they work you in I have a friend they painted his bus damn good paint job looks like the prep work was well done.
I drove 65 miles each way from Magnolia to the Ellis in 1983 for 6 months when we were building the Ellis Unit

[ScharpeStGuy]

Jack, Great pointers and things to look over. Thank you.

DoubleEagle Eagle19952, do you want the job?!!!

DoubleEagle, great points and thank you for your contributions.

Any chance any of you are located close to Christiansburg, VA (MCI 102a3) or Phoenix, AZ (two GMC 6905's)? If so I would be ever so grateful to have a second set of eyes looking over a bus and we can discuss payment for your time.

Thanks everyone