What gauge and what material to skin with?

[jav9956]

I have been looking at filon: http://www.rvpartsnation.com/exterior/rv-fiberglass-siding/arctic-white-rv-fiberglass-filon-siding/

It looks like a great economical way to go. I got to see an eagle with similar siding and very much liked the way it looked. Trying to go a cost effective yet structurally sound route. It would be nice to go with a continuous sheet which is one of the perks of the filon.... a continuous sheet 102" wide and 35' long is about $700 and I haven't shopped around for cheaper prices yet.

My question is what gauge and what material is suggested for skinning the sides of the bus?

[PRZNBUS]

After the roof raise this spring, I'm using 18 gauge steel plug and seam welded so no rivets.

Bruce

[jav9956]

After the roof raise this spring, I'm using 18 gauge steel plug and seam welded so no rivets.

Bruce

What is your thought behind this? Are you using cold roll or hot roll? My biggest concern with using steel would be corrosion, the price is obviously much better than aluminum.

[dvrasor]

I used 5052 .080 thick no wrinkles.fwiw.

Dave Rasor

[kyle4501]

Steel is gonna be heavier for a given thickness. However, if you use aluminium, you can go 3 times as thick for the same weight, Thicker means fewer wrinkles.

Rivets will allow slight a slight amount of flexing without over stressing things.
Welding will be difficult to keep the panel wrinkle free . . .

I suppose if you heated the panel as you went it would shrink tight . . .

What ever you choose to use, I would recommend using something that accepts paint well.

[luvrbus]

Was the Eagle you saw the red one that belongs to Art and Cindy it turn out good covered with Filon

[jav9956]

Was the Eagle you saw the red one that belongs to Art and Cindy it turn out good covered with Filon

Yes! It was Art and Cindy's red Eagle. There were some waves in it but honestly I don't mind it at all. I just don't know whether I want to go the aluminum or Filon route.

I think if I go aluminum I will just go thin, I should be able to get a 4' x 8' sheet of 5052 .08 thick for $100 bucks. I could probably get a 4' x 12' sheet for a little more.

Just have to decide the cheapest solution that will work, if it looks nice that is OK too 

[Scott & Heather]

Bjorn, if you want thin, your best bet is steel. You can't go thin with aluminum, it will oil can a lot. Aluminum has a linear expansion coefficient twice that of steel. So the general rule of thumb is that if you want to go aluminum, you have to go thick to prevent oil canning.


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[jav9956]

What do you guys think of this stuff:
http://losangeles.craigslist.org/lgb/mat/5476354002.html

It is an interesting concept and pretty darn cheap.

I think I am just going to go with .08" aluminum sheets. I think I can get 4' by 12' sheets for around $120 from a local supplier but still contemplating all of my options.

[TomC]

Most commercial truck freight boxes are now taped with no rivets. And most use .030" or .040". I used .063" aluminum panels 3M taped to the 1.5" square tubing. The two sided 3M tape is so strong, the suggested way to remove a panel is with an air chisel! Just another way. Good Luck, TomC

[jav9956]

Most commercial truck freight boxes are now taped with no rivets. And most use .030" or .040". I used .063" aluminum panels 3M taped to the 1.5" square tubing. The two sided 3M tape is so strong, the suggested way to remove a panel is with an air chisel! Just another way. Good Luck, TomC

I was looking at 3M VHB #5952 which is the double sided panel tape you are referring to. I am seriously considering using this. for the application, I am just not sure how it will work towards the top and bottom of the sheet. If we go with aluminum we will likely just leave the sheets that are already installed (below the window); I am not sure if I would be able to use the VHB and still get everything to sit right if the bottom portion is riveted and I am not sure if it would look right? Who knows. When you installed it how did you attach the bottom and top of the panel? I am assuming that the top was tucked under the roof panel with a small amount of overlap and the drip rail was installed over it, but did the double sided tape provide any difficulty with this installation? I am just afraid that the tape will cause it to sit higher and therefore cause complications.

[brmax]

Seems like if using tape on the uprights you might have to use it at the top front to back also or a wave action might be visible.
That may be something to consider, I know they are really using adhesive and tape in mfg. now days with great results. I might use a sealant on the bottom overlap edge possibly, have to think on that a bit.
good day there
Floyd

[jav9956]

As long as the tape is applied to all of the tubing possible oil canning should not occur... the tape is supposed to provide flexibility to the system and almost float the panels.

Also appealing is that enough VHB can be purchased to do the whole bus for $200. I found a site that sells a case for that price (1 case = 2        1" wide x 36 yards long). Being that this replaces rivets, adhesive glue, and drill bits, not to mention the time involved with installing, it seems like a pretty sweet deal.

I just can't picture how to attach the top and bottom with the thickness of the tape preventing the panel from sitting as flush as possible. I am going to have to look into this further.

[Beesme]

I just finished Re skin and windows . I used .063 aluminum sheets. 1800 rivets used were blind sealing aluminum 1/4" dia by 1/2" long. I've only driven it a few miles but center windows were skun over with same material for years with no wrinkles. I'm guessing the whole sides will withstand but time will tell thanx . I just checked out your build, very nice!

[TomC]

With truck boxes, there are support moldings at the top that the roof attaches to, and at the bottom where the molding is the floor support. On my box, there are moldings covering up the top and bottom. Good Luck, TomC