rivet gun / rivets

[natepelton]

Hey guys-

The 1983 Prevost LeMirage is still here and now I have money to work on it. First things on the list are change oil/filter, replace driver and door window so I can see again, change out dry rotted tires, chase down power steering leak, and remove some unused roof vents and patch them up.

Looking to order a rivet gun and the right rivets for my bus. I want to get a good one that will last. Any recommendations? Or a used one for sale?
Where do I get the sheet metal to patch the holes?

Anything I am overlooking? The bus hasn't been driven in 2 years, but started and moved every couple months. Batteries are on a Battery Tender (24v).

Thanks-

-Nate

[chessie4905]

   From recommendations here, I purchased a 1/4 inch Harbor Freight pneumatic riveter. I purchased shavehead rivets of appropriate lengths from Blyler Rivet. These rivets have an o-ring on back of head to seal out water. I also ordered a rivet head shaver form them to dress top of installed rivets and remove protruding stub. I replaced the  panel that goes across the front below the windshield. It turned out really nice and was worth the expense of the tools. The rivets are more money than pop rivets but beat using solid rivets hands down. The rivet shaver is somewhat costly but should last a long time. Or you can use heavy duty pop rivets if looks don't matter but cost does.

[Oonrahnjay]

From recommendations here, I purchased a 1/4 inch Harbor Freight pneumatic riveter. I purchased shavehead rivets of appropriate lengths from Blyler Rivet. These rivets have an o-ring on back of head to seal out water. I also ordered a rivet head shaver form them to dress top of installed rivets and remove protruding stub. I replaced the  panel that goes across the front below the windshield. It turned out really nice and was worth the expense of the tools. The rivets are more money than pop rivets but beat using solid rivets hands down. The rivet shaver is somewhat costly but should last a long time. Or you can use heavy duty pop rivets if looks don't matter but cost does. 

    Yeah, I think Chessie has it right.  I purchased really good quality hand-riveter (the kind like a pair of channel locks on steroids) for the places that the air riveter wouldn't reach -- it works great but I've found myself using the air gun just about everywhere.  The issue of water sealing is important - the rivets that Chessie talks about have the mini-O-ring but they're also made to seal inside the rivet.  Even on a vertical surface, you'll get important water leaks without the sealing and you DON'T WANT to think about the leaking you'd get from an unsealed rivet on the front of your vehicle or on a slanted/upwardly facing surface. 
    Riveting is a lot like painting -- prep is important.  You need to get your holes drilled smoothly and with even, correctly-sized bores.  They also need to align properly for what you're doing.  If possible, check for burrs left on the holes on the backside of your drilled holes (a good, sharp drill bit is important here).  Get everything aligned properly, make sure the rivet is in line and seated properly.  It's also important to keep lots of pressure on the head of the rivet to keep the rivet seated and all the pieces aligned.
    I also found it helpful at times to have a "hole finder".  I bought a $4 pair of channel-lock type pliers at the bargain bin at the hardware store.  On one jaw, I welded a 3/4" long tab with a 3/16" stub welded to it (piece of broken bolt I had), this stub points away from the other jaw.  On the other jaw, I welded a similar tab but the stub on it I ground down to a point and that point meets the backside of the stub on the other tab.  If I have a new piece of sheet metal, I cut it to size and lay it in position.  Since the holes under it are covered, I'd just be guessing where to drill matching holes, but with the hole finder, I slip the tab with the stub on it under the metal and with a little "feeling around", the stub falls into the hole.  Then I close the pliers and the point on the other jaw touches the sheet metal at a point that's lined up with the hole underneath -- sometimes it helps to put a little dab from a paint pencil on the point.  Then I remove the hole finder and gently center-punch that point and drill a pilot-hole just to be sure.  If everything is lined up correctly, I drill the final hole to size in line with the existing hole underneath it. 
    The body on my bus is basically a big pile of rivets held together with a few strips of steel and aluminum, so I've had to learn some riveting tricks.  I've also had some aircraft repair experience, and I can second Chessie's point on solid rivets -- they do a wonderful job but they're a total PITA so stay away from them if you can.
     The BIG 3 -- good tools, the right rivets, and good prep.

[belfert]

Don't replace the tires until you are truly ready to drive the bus.  Too many buy expensive tires that dry rot while they spend years on the conversion.  They end up needing new tires again by the time they hit the road.

The Harbor Freight rivet gun and the shavehead rivets are both good.