MCI Guys tell me what you know!

travlinman · September 10, 2015, 07:07:48 PM

Hey Guys

We are looking at a 1997 102D that was converted from new, looks like a really nice coach but I know very little about MCIs. Rather than search all over the web I figured I would start here, so point me in the right direction!

Thanks

TM

Scott & Heather · September 10, 2015, 09:06:36 PM

What questions do you have? What do you want to know?

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bevans6 · September 11, 2015, 04:24:30 AM

There is nothing much unique about an MCI. You inspect it like you would anything else. Look for rust in the lower chassis everywhere, and up around the whole front fascia frame above the spare tire. Inspect the engine cradle for cracks. Look for signs of poor maintenance - converted from new sounds good until you think that it probably never got proper chassis maintenance or daily inspections. If you can start the engine from fully cold, all the better. Check for all the normal engine stuff, all the lights, do the wipers work, all of that normal stuff.

Do a complete DOT inspection on it, inspect the air lines, brake slack adjusters, etc. Drain all the air tanks fully, start the engine and air it up, watch the pressure rise and see what happens. Time how long it takes to reach full pressure, note what that is. Observe the low air pressure alarm turn off, note when that happens. Once it is completely full and stable (suspension completely full) turn off the engine and watch the pressure gauge - should drop no more than a Lb over one minute, do the same with brakes fully applied, should drop no more than a single psi over one minute. Start the engine, run on high idle or 1,000 rpm, fan the brakes down to 80 psi on the gauge. Observe the pressure start to rise, measure the time it takes to rise from 85 psi to 100 psi, should be around 15 seconds and no more than 30 seconds. At this point you know the compressor works properly and there are no major system leaks.

Next, go outside and drain all the tanks, starting with the wet tank. Put a piece of cardboard under the air dryer and catch the spray, look for signs of oil in the spray. Drain the dry tank, look for signs of water (should be completely dry). Drain the accessory tank, should be completely dry. Finally drain the parking brake tank. It should retain a full pressure when the rest of the tanks are empty, that checks out the one-way check valve. If you got massive water from the wet tank, or any water at all from any other tank, you know there is an issue with daily maintenance and the air dryer.

Now start the engine, pump up full air pressure. Release the parking brake, drive forward a few feet (basically just get rolling) and apply the parking brake with the push-pull valve only, bus should stop as the rear brakes are applied. Release the parking brake, drive forward again and apply the service brakes with the pedal, bus should stop smoothly.

That is about what I would do before I drove a strange bus that no one had ever seen before. If you can get it over a pit, you need to have all the underside stuff inspected, seals tight, no oil on brakes, brakes in good maintenance, etc.

Brian

luvrbus · September 11, 2015, 04:56:01 AM

That bus has a series 60 and B500 I would ask for records on the engine and transmission maintenance on the engine to see if the antifreeze and fluids has been taken care of over the years.

It may be a low mileage coach but liners will fail in a 60 series if the antifreeze is not maintain with very few miles ? is that the D in Glendora CA they thought was made of gold if so that is a nice bus Steve

I would have DD and Allison check it the D is a good bus with the outward mounted air bags and a complete frame they ride and drive like a dream

skihor · September 11, 2015, 06:27:13 AM

Quote from: bevans6 on September 11, 2015, 04:24:30 AM
There is nothing much unique about an MCI. You inspect it like you would anything else. Look for rust in the lower chassis everywhere, and up around the whole front fascia frame above the spare tire. Inspect the engine cradle for cracks. Look for signs of poor maintenance - converted from new sounds good until you think that it probably never got proper chassis maintenance or daily inspections. If you can start the engine from fully cold, all the better. Check for all the normal engine stuff, all the lights, do the wipers work, all of that normal stuff.

Do a complete DOT inspection on it, inspect the air lines, brake slack adjusters, etc. Drain all the air tanks fully, start the engine and air it up, watch the pressure rise and see what happens. Time how long it takes to reach full pressure, note what that is. Observe the low air pressure alarm turn off, note when that happens. Once it is completely full and stable (suspension completely full) turn off the engine and watch the pressure gauge - should drop no more than a Lb over one minute, do the same with brakes fully applied, should drop no more than a single psi over one minute. Start the engine, run on high idle or 1,000 rpm, fan the brakes down to 80 psi on the gauge. Observe the pressure start to rise, measure the time it takes to rise from 85 psi to 100 psi, should be around 15 seconds and no more than 30 seconds. At this point you know the compressor works properly and there are no major system leaks.

Next, go outside and drain all the tanks, starting with the wet tank. Put a piece of cardboard under the air dryer and catch the spray, look for signs of oil in the spray. Drain the dry tank, look for signs of water (should be completely dry). Drain the accessory tank, should be completely dry. Finally drain the parking brake tank. It should retain a full pressure when the rest of the tanks are empty, that checks out the one-way check valve. If you got massive water from the wet tank, or any water at all from any other tank, you know there is an issue with daily maintenance and the air dryer.

Now start the engine, pump up full air pressure. Release the parking brake, drive forward a few feet (basically just get rolling) and apply the parking brake with the push-pull valve only, bus should stop as the rear brakes are applied. Release the parking brake, drive forward again and apply the service brakes with the pedal, bus should stop smoothly.

That is about what I would do before I drove a strange bus that no one had ever seen before. If you can get it over a pit, you need to have all the underside stuff inspected, seals tight, no oil on brakes, brakes in good maintenance, etc.

Brian

You have the air brake test completely wrong. Refer the federal regs regarding the proper way to perform an air brake test.

bevans6 · September 11, 2015, 06:36:37 AM

Completely wrong? Really? I doubt it. That is how I would start to examine a bus that I had never seen before to see if the air systems were in good shape. Not minimum DOT pass levels. That would catch any kind of major fault and point me towards further investigation. It is biased towards a bus with DD-3 brakes, which I guess a 1997 might not have, in which case I would do spring brake tests.

Brian

luvrbus · September 11, 2015, 06:44:45 AM

The D has the DD-3 brakes,the brakes are a important part of bus buying but a B500 and a series 60 can be big bucks to repair brakes are cheap to repair

A Pro Link will tell you a lot about a B500 and a series 60 it makes it hard for a seller to lie to you.

Steve ask for records it is a 18 year old bus you are going to need to replace stuff like air bags if original great thing about the D no rusted out air beams to worry about

eagle19952 · September 11, 2015, 10:23:54 AM

Quote from: skihor on September 11, 2015, 06:27:13 AM
You have the air brake test completely wrong. Refer the federal regs regarding the proper way to perform an air brake test.

http://www.truckercountry.com/cdl-practice-tests/air-brakes/classic/ab1/

Oonrahnjay · September 11, 2015, 11:28:14 AM

Quote from: eagle19952 on September 11, 2015, 10:23:54 AM
http://www.truckercountry.com/cdl-practice-tests/air-brakes/classic/ab1/

What a mess??!??!?!!!

"1. Brake drums...
A Are bolted to the wheels
B Are located at each end of the vehicle's axles
C Hold the brake shoes and linings
D All of the above"

A? They're fixed to a location on the brake axle or hubs and typically there are bolt or stud-and-nut fasteners holding the wheels to the drums. But "bolted to the wheels"

B? Well, yes, I guess they are but they may be located on hubs on axles or hubs which may not be.
C? "Holding" them? The shoes and linings are inside them but they're "held" by screws and nuts, or studs, or clips, or springs?
D? Depends on the mess above, doesn't it?

moosemanusa · September 11, 2015, 11:34:39 AM

I passed that one at the DMV with 100% - The only test i've ever aced in my life LOL

travlinman · September 11, 2015, 12:01:34 PM

Thanks for the replies here are a few more thoughts..

Scott - Guess I could have been a bit more specific, my bad. I am looking for info unique to MCIs as I have been around just about every other type of bus but them. I see that you own a couple so any thing unique in your experiences would be of great help to us.

Bevans - Thanks for your thoughts a full inspection would be part of our plan.

Clifford - Thanks as always for your thoughts. You are correct that it is the one in Glendale. It sounds like a really good one, one owner, stored inside etc. I would agree that the pice is a bit one the high side, but if it has had good upkeep that can be worth a lot. I have looked at a lot of 4 and 5 owner coaches this year with no history for more than that! I am going to quiz the owner on records and coolant history especially this weekend.

Cheers!

TM

Scott & Heather · September 12, 2015, 08:10:31 PM

I think everyone gave some great advice. Southern coaches are pretty safe bets in the body/corrosion department. Our 102 is a Texas coach so it's clean. Our 9 lived its life in Canada and Wisconsin. Let's just say, it's scary. MCI coaches are workhorses. I love them. Not as pretty as a Prevost or Eagle, but they hold their own and for the most part, parts are easy to come by

sounds like you're all set

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