Time for new AC units? Let's talk options - Page 3
 

Time for new AC units? Let's talk options

Started by andyps, August 21, 2015, 04:23:45 PM

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andyps

Quote from: Darkspeed on August 24, 2015, 04:48:02 PM
My AC engineer buddy swears the Fujitsu are the best brand for mobile mini splits and they are good at removing moisture from the air. If you are running your split system exclusively off of a 120v/240v power pole, then there is no big seer advantage. It matters to me because sometimes I will be running off of a battery bank backed up by a small generator.

The OEM 4106 had about R3 worth of insulation in the walls, none in the floor, single pane windows, and no form of thermal isolation, so you are fighting mother nature.
Easiest thing to do to combat heat is a bright white roof. Im using Liquid EPDM on mine as it also makes the entire roof waterproof and hail resistant. > http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003K9XGTK/ref=pe_456950_140776490_em_1p_0_im


I was looking around today and found some 48v mini splits that can run off solar. I think they were around 12000 BTU. Have you seen those yet?

Also do you know if anyone has ever hooked into the buses OTR vents that run the length of the bus windows? Any reason not to? Would that be hard to do with a fujitsu slim duct unit?

Darkspeed

48VDC vehicle AC units are a known and proven item. I am going to use a 48VDC compressor to drive my Vintage Air ( dash air ).

The 48VDC (Solar) Mini split is a relatively new item. From what I understand they are using the high efficiency Inverter AC compressor and just not adding the normal 120/240AC to 48VDC power converter that most inverter mini splits have.

Solar Mini Split is kind of misleading. If you have a huge solar array and battery bank ( wont fit in your bus ) you can do it. If your bus was maxed out with solar panels on a sunny day you would only be able to run the AC for a few hours until you were looking for a power pole or starting your generator.

I am keeping an eye for any positive / negative results from them.

I think the people who have the mini split problem are buying the $599 craptastic brand and not doing a correct install. We built a bunch of mobile medical clinics ( like MRI trucks ) and they all have minisplits and there has never been a problem.
4106 6V92TA MUI + V730 8" Lowered Floor & Polished > http://www.busconversions.com/bbs/index.php?topic=24673.0 QuietBox > http://www.busconversions.com/bbs/index.php?topic=29946.0
It's all math and metal...

eagle19952

My A/C is all adapted equiptment made by FirstCo in Dallas TX. The pieces were designed to be used on multi story commercial/condo units
The air handler is in the living space and is about 20x20x32h

MY duct work is almost exactly like yours. "built in" to the cabinets and furniture.
it has been running virtually non stop since 2004 and was installed in the early/mid 90's.
It is 220v, If I am going to the Grand Canyon...I do it in April. Death Valley/Furnace Creek I do it in the winter...
If it is hot hot I park on a pole, If I am driving I use my generator.

http://www.firstco.com/

MAYBE ??/ this one will adapt...only 2T tho...

http://www.firstco.com/Products/Multi-Family-Residential-Products/Single-Package-Vertical-Units/SPXR-A-(cooling-with-electric-heat)

My Condenser 3T with squirrel cage fan... R22


You can see two A/C ducts (small rectangles) upper left
Donald PH
1978 Model 05 Eagle w/Torsilastic Suspension,8V71 N, DD, Allison on 24.5's 12kw Kubota.

TomC

This is simple-roof tops are the easiest, cheapest A/C's. I know many don't like the looks, but notice even on high end motorhomes, roof tops are used. On my bus with huge windows, I have three 13,500btu Colemans. Granted they are not very quiet, but they work extremely well. I installed them in 1994 and haven't done a thing to them, except clean the filters. Course my bus is indoors. I use the bus constantly even when parked-it is my apartment when working on the truck.
Using anything 240v will be a pain. I can run one A/C on a 20amp circuit. Having three is a comfort if one breaks down-I've been lucky since none have broken down. The key to quieting at night, I run the middle A/C on low fan then open the bathroom door blocking off the hallway, but having enough space between the top of the door and ceiling to allow cool air through. Then it is quiet enough to sleep. I have slept boon docking with the gen and A/C on all night, and neither is too noisy to sleep. Good Luck, TomC
Tom & Donna Christman. 1985 Kenworth 40ft Super C with garage. '77 AMGeneral 10240B; 8V-71TATAIC V730.

eagle19952

Perhaps...if you say so, but in 10 years i have not experienced any pain. ;D

any AC repair person who has worked on my system was happy to do it and did so the same day i called, never took more than a few hours...
you don't get that kind of service from roof top repairman, I've been in enough rv parks to know that...

roof tops....are also the noisiest.
Donald PH
1978 Model 05 Eagle w/Torsilastic Suspension,8V71 N, DD, Allison on 24.5's 12kw Kubota.

andyps

Quote from: Darkspeed on August 27, 2015, 03:05:04 PM
I think the people who have the mini split problem are buying the $599 craptastic brand and not doing a correct install. We built a bunch of mobile medical clinics ( like MRI trucks ) and they all have minisplits and there has never been a problem.

One of the ones I'm looking at this:

http://www.thermospace.com/ductless_split/thermocore-t118d-h230-18+18.php

I really like the fujitsu units, but they are $1000-1500 more.

When you say "not doing a correct install" what do you mean?

How do you adapt them for the mobile medical clinics that is different from a residential install?

I'm becoming pretty convinced the mini split route is the best for my case.

andyps

Quote from: eagle19952 on August 27, 2015, 03:44:15 PM
My A/C is all adapted equiptment made by FirstCo in Dallas TX. The pieces were designed to be used on multi story commercial/condo units
The air handler is in the living space and is about 20x20x32h

MY duct work is almost exactly like yours. "built in" to the cabinets and furniture.
it has been running virtually non stop since 2004 and was installed in the early/mid 90's.
It is 220v, If I am going to the Grand Canyon...I do it in April. Death Valley/Furnace Creek I do it in the winter...
If it is hot hot I park on a pole, If I am driving I use my generator.

http://www.firstco.com/

MAYBE ??/ this one will adapt...only 2T tho...

http://www.firstco.com/Products/Multi-Family-Residential-Products/Single-Package-Vertical-Units/SPXR-A-(cooling-with-electric-heat)

My Condenser 3T with squirrel cage fan... R22
http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb468/dphalaska/Image022-1.jpg

You can see two A/C ducts (small rectangles) upper left
http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb468/dphalaska/0295035-R1-054-25A.jpg

Thanks for the info! I looked at that model (and a few others), but I'm not sure they will work for me. The dimensions don't work on most, plus the 2 ton limit worries me.

I really like your install. It's very clean!

Quote from: TomC on August 27, 2015, 04:29:09 PM
This is simple-roof tops are the easiest, cheapest A/C's. I know many don't like the looks, but notice even on high end motorhomes, roof tops are used. On my bus with huge windows, I have three 13,500btu Colemans. Granted they are not very quiet, but they work extremely well. I installed them in 1994 and haven't done a thing to them, except clean the filters. Course my bus is indoors. I use the bus constantly even when parked-it is my apartment when working on the truck.
Using anything 240v will be a pain. I can run one A/C on a 20amp circuit. Having three is a comfort if one breaks down-I've been lucky since none have broken down. The key to quieting at night, I run the middle A/C on low fan then open the bathroom door blocking off the hallway, but having enough space between the top of the door and ceiling to allow cool air through. Then it is quiet enough to sleep. I have slept boon docking with the gen and A/C on all night, and neither is too noisy to sleep. Good Luck, TomC

I really appreciate the feedback on rooftops, but I'm definitely not going that route. I understand all the conveniences of the rootops, but their negatives are enough for me to want to avoid them. Mainly, I won't want them on my roofline and I don't want to duck more than I already do on the bus. Btw, I searched around and found your basement install. That's really nice. Are you still running that?

robertglines1

pic of my install. See busprojects topic.  45XLE   I brought the pictures forward for a ceiling post but further on there are mini-split pictures.  Your next topic needs to be insulation.. Had one member add spray foam on top or roof 5 inches. then rubber type rv roof. I know this install is 5 yrs plus old and many mile/trips coast to coast.   FWIW   Bob
Bob@Judy  98 XLE prevost with 3 slides --Home done---last one! SW INdiana

Darkspeed

Quote from: andyps on August 27, 2015, 11:58:45 PM
One of the ones I'm looking at this:

http://www.thermospace.com/ductless_split/thermocore-t118d-h230-18+18.php

I really like the fujitsu units, but they are $1000-1500 more.

When you say "not doing a correct install" what do you mean?

How do you adapt them for the mobile medical clinics that is different from a residential install?

I'm becoming pretty convinced the mini split route is the best for my case.

A Split System wants a few basic things to be happy, sine wave electricity, not to vibrate to death, be able to drain properly, and be able to get rid of its heat.

1. Upgraded vibration dampeners were used when the condenser and head units were bolted down.
2. Flex adapters were used in the solder connection between the condenser and the line set.
3. The head units were placed on a level wall ( not at a fore or aft tilt )
4. Both drains (at each end) were tired together with a T to a main drain that was larger than specified
5. There were no crazy kinks or turns in the drain line
6. The drain line went out the bottom of the truck then it gently curved toward the back of the truck for a few feet so there was never any positive wind pressure on the end of the drain line.
7. Condenser has to be mounted in a location that it is working with the natural air flow when the vehicle in in motion not fighting it. for example if the positive pressure side of your condenser fan is facing the positive pressure side of the oncoming air from the vehicle being in motion, then your condenser is not going to be able to cool.
8. Line sets were secured to a wall or structure every two feet.

http://www.unisource-mfg.com/products/oneproduct.php?categoryid=50&productid=203

The isolators need to be:
1. Low durometer - soft
2. Captured - so in a hard stop / collision your condenser stays put.

This would be a good place to start on isolators > Extreme-Temperature Bolt-Down Vibration-Damping Mounts on  http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-vibration-damping-mounts/=y3brr6

4106 6V92TA MUI + V730 8" Lowered Floor & Polished > http://www.busconversions.com/bbs/index.php?topic=24673.0 QuietBox > http://www.busconversions.com/bbs/index.php?topic=29946.0
It's all math and metal...

eagle19952

First co does have 2 3/4 T and larger but probably takes up more real estate.

you'll figure it out i'm sure.  ;D ;D
Donald PH
1978 Model 05 Eagle w/Torsilastic Suspension,8V71 N, DD, Allison on 24.5's 12kw Kubota.

luvrbus

Roof tops don't last lol today I turned on 2 Colemans on a Coachmen President a 1985 model the wife bought new, the units haven't been run since 2000 and are original from 1985 would you believe both fired up and are blowing cold air and are working like a charm,these are 30 year old Mach units and never been touched by a service person   ;D 

I wanted nothing on the roof or no vent holes in the side of my X Eagle the Cruisair splits came at a price ( 3x$3000) but were worth it IMO no other Ac on the market can you take a fan speed from 0 to 350 cfm.The top of the line Prevost converter still uses the CruisAir  huh Jon
Life is short drink the good wine first

eagle19952

Quote from: luvrbus on August 28, 2015, 09:11:40 AM
Roof tops don't last lol today I turned on 2 Colemans on a Coachmen President a 1985 model the wife bought new, the units haven't been run since 2000 and are original from 1985 would you believe both fired up and are blowing cold air and are working like a charm,these are 30 year old Mach units and never been touched by a service person   ;D

Don't you wish you could buy that kind of quality today... ain't gonna happen  :(
Donald PH
1978 Model 05 Eagle w/Torsilastic Suspension,8V71 N, DD, Allison on 24.5's 12kw Kubota.

luvrbus

It is funny the MH is 30 amps and in 1985 RV parks had very little 50 amp service so Coachmen had a switch you could run either unit, it would switch automatic between the 2 or could be manually controlled for 1 with the generator it would allow both units to run   
Life is short drink the good wine first

Darkspeed

Quote from: andyps on August 27, 2015, 11:58:45 PM
One of the ones I'm looking at this:

http://www.thermospace.com/ductless_split/thermocore-t118d-h230-18+18.php

I really like the fujitsu units, but they are $1000-1500 more.

When you say "not doing a correct install" what do you mean?

How do you adapt them for the mobile medical clinics that is different from a residential install?

I'm becoming pretty convinced the mini split route is the best for my case.

Andy, that unit in your link is actually a Thermacore http://www.thermocoresystems.com/ =. I dont know them but I would check the reviews on a number of websites first. http://www.amazon.com/Thermocore-Systems/b/ref=bl_dp_s_web_9741779011?ie=UTF8&node=9741779011&field-lbr_brands_browse-bin=Thermocore+Systems
4106 6V92TA MUI + V730 8" Lowered Floor & Polished > http://www.busconversions.com/bbs/index.php?topic=24673.0 QuietBox > http://www.busconversions.com/bbs/index.php?topic=29946.0
It's all math and metal...

andyps

Quote from: Darkspeed on August 28, 2015, 05:54:39 AM
A Split System wants a few basic things to be happy, sine wave electricity, not to vibrate to death, be able to drain properly, and be able to get rid of its heat.

1. Upgraded vibration dampeners were used when the condenser and head units were bolted down.
2. Flex adapters were used in the solder connection between the condenser and the line set.
3. The head units were placed on a level wall ( not at a fore or aft tilt )
4. Both drains (at each end) were tired together with a T to a main drain that was larger than specified
5. There were no crazy kinks or turns in the drain line
6. The drain line went out the bottom of the truck then it gently curved toward the back of the truck for a few feet so there was never any positive wind pressure on the end of the drain line.
7. Condenser has to be mounted in a location that it is working with the natural air flow when the vehicle in in motion not fighting it. for example if the positive pressure side of your condenser fan is facing the positive pressure side of the oncoming air from the vehicle being in motion, then your condenser is not going to be able to cool.
8. Line sets were secured to a wall or structure every two feet.

http://www.unisource-mfg.com/products/oneproduct.php?categoryid=50&productid=203

The isolators need to be:
1. Low durometer - soft
2. Captured - so in a hard stop / collision your condenser stays put.

This would be a good place to start on isolators > Extreme-Temperature Bolt-Down Vibration-Damping Mounts on  http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-vibration-damping-mounts/=y3brr6



Good info!

Is soldering the only option with those flex adapters? Or are their options for using the connections the units will come with?

I don't have any copper soldering experience.

Quote from: Darkspeed on August 28, 2015, 10:07:13 AM
Andy, that unit in your link is actually a Thermacore http://www.thermocoresystems.com/ =. I dont know them but I would check the reviews on a number of websites first. http://www.amazon.com/Thermocore-Systems/b/ref=bl_dp_s_web_9741779011?ie=UTF8&node=9741779011&field-lbr_brands_browse-bin=Thermocore+Systems

Ya, sorry that was confusing. I was saying that I have been looking at that Theramore unit because it looks like a nice unit (better than the ultra cheap), but it was still a lot less expensive than a comparable Fujitsu.

I'm also looking at this Air-Con unit:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Dual-Zone-Mini-Split-Ductless-Air-Conditioner-Heat-Pump-18000-18000-BTU-NW-/321832239517