Fuel line nut wrench - options?

Iceni John · August 08, 2015, 10:17:12 PM

I'm looking to buy the wrench to undo the fuel crossover lines so I can get my Jakes off to rebuild them. The Kent-Moore wrench is a J-8932-01, but it seems it's no longer available. I've found what may be two alternatives - are they the correct size (I think it's 1/2")?
Snap-on Tools M3503B
Mac Tools SC167
Are there any other wrenches that will work, and hopefully not cost too much? I only need it for this one job, I hope.

I got my Jacobs 0.059" feeler gauge yesterday, and my Pacbrake tune-up kit is due here next week. I also need to get some O-rings for the crossover tubes, but I haven't found anyone local who has Viton size 008 in stock; I don't really want to buy a bag of 100 of them from Grainger or McMaster-Carr!

Thanks, John

zubzub · August 09, 2015, 05:34:06 AM

I'm not familiar with that wrench or its application but when I need a special wrench in a one off situation I often cut and bend something in my box of spares. For line wrences I will cut a a slot in a closed end wrenvh and then heat and bend the handle if needs a special twist for access.. Not as good as a line wrench, so sometimes a pair of needle nose vise grips have to back them up. PS really need to use a a six point wrench for this.
And for that DD fuel line wrench I would chop up a 6 point deep socket...the same as snap shot on does by the looks of the tool marks on that "special" tool

luvrbus · August 09, 2015, 05:44:48 AM

John, send me a address I will loan you the socket just please return it and you can buy the o-rings from P C Industries in WY (aftermarket) I have never used anything but DD o-rings and they are $.80 each, fwiw the numbers for the Mac and SnapOn socket are correct,change the K/M number to J43168 that is the one they make now and I don't care for it

harpold700 3 · August 09, 2015, 08:56:24 AM

As long as you own a Detroit Diesel that wrench/socket should be in your toolbox.

Iceni John · August 09, 2015, 10:53:51 AM

Quote from: luvrbus on August 09, 2015, 05:44:48 AM
John, send me a address I will loan you the socket just please return it and you can buy the o-rings from P C Industries in WY (aftermarket) I have never used anything but DD o-rings and they are $.80 each, fwiw the numbers for the Mac and SnapOn socket are correct,change the K/M number to J43168 that is the one they make now and I don't care for it

Thank you for your very kind offer. However, I just found a used Snap-on M3503A on eBay for only $15.00 so I bought it. I hope it's functionally the same as the B model - if it isn't, it's only $15 and I'm sure I can find a use for it somewhere else! (I like accumulating weird tools!)

I'll check into the O-rings from P C Industries. If I get them I'll know I'm getting the right ones - generic O-rings make me slightly nervous for something as important as the fuel tubes. Besides, a dozen of them is about the same price as a bag of Grainger's, and I wouldn't have any use for the other 88 in the bag!

Many thanks, John

luvrbus · August 09, 2015, 11:00:40 AM

Order 24 that is what it takes for 6v92 you ordered the right socket the B is just taller

Iceni John · August 09, 2015, 11:02:27 AM

Yes, that Kent-Moore J43168 looks like something I could make from some old cut-down socket and a piece of scrap steel brazed together! The Snap-on looks nicer, and it's slimmer so it should fit easier.

OK, thanks, 24 it is!

John

luvrbus · August 09, 2015, 11:16:05 AM

Quote from: Iceni John on August 09, 2015, 11:02:27 AM
Yes, that Kent-Moore J43168 looks like something I could make from some old cut-down socket and a piece of scrap steel brazed together! The Snap-on looks nicer, and it's slimmer so it should fit easier.

OK, thanks, 24 it is!

John

Isn't that terrible for a $$ K/M tool nobody is making that socket anylonger when they are gone they are gone.

The o-rings are probably the same but I don't chance it either for a few extra bucks difference

bevans6 · August 09, 2015, 02:14:46 PM

FWIW I made a socket out of a extra deep 1/2" socket I had lying around, and an angle grinder to cut the slot and hollow out the recess. It worked fine, then I found my snap-on one and it seemed a lot better, but didn't work for an odd reason. For some reason there was an internal recess that made it so it wouldn't quite fit deeply enough over the O-ring type nut. It would have fit fine over the tapered type nut but it just grabbed the very top of the hex of the O-ring nut, and rounded off the corners of the nut. I drilled out the obstruction and it fit fine after that.

Brian

Iceni John · August 09, 2015, 03:04:15 PM

I had thought about making my own, but for only $15 for a "previously enjoyed" Snap-on it's hardly worth it! I'll bear in mind what you needed to do in case mine doesn't fit right. Always a challenge, isn't it? (And we do this for fun?)

I completely revamped my Jakes' electricals thinking that was why they weren't working well, but even after doing that they're no better. Thus the need to get into their inner workings and see what's wrong - I suspect it's probably only some leaking O-rings. Both solenoids click, so I hope they're OK. One potential challenge was to remove the driver's-side exhaust pipe so I can get that valve cover off - I thought I would have to fight it off, but it separated as soon as I undid the clamps. I'll also need to partially drain some coolant so I can remove a coolant crossover hose that prevents the valve cover coming off. I'll do the passenger-side Jake first because I can reach it easier.

I've been reading about folk who've had their Jakes set tighter than 0.059", but for now I'll set them to that spec. Maybe later, depending on how well they work, I may reduce the lash by one or two thous, but I'm nervous about doing that just in case Something Bad happens. Too bad Don Fairchild is no longer in Bakersfield to do his magic on them!

Wish me luck!
John

luvrbus · August 09, 2015, 03:57:31 PM

You are better off not to fool around with the 0.59 adjustment on a 92 series a good tight 0.59 the 92 is not a old 71 series you could use a yard stick on.I have gone to 0.55 on a 92 and could not see any difference

Don is still around in fact I am getting ready to call him he was running between Bakersfield and Vegas he plans on landing in Vegas last time I spoke with him lol he didn't care for the WY winter

Iceni John · August 09, 2015, 04:33:30 PM

OK, 0.059" it is! I would prefer not to dink around with it if there's no benefit. As long as the Jakes work to factory specs I'll be happy. With a 4.1 rear end I should get good Jake performance anyway, plus my bus won't be over about 30,000 lbs when it's done. I suspect that only one bank has ever worked since I bought the bus, and that was good enough to hold me to 35 MPH coming down the southbound Grapevine in 3rd. Having both banks work well will be excellent!

If Don ever sets up shop again in Southern California, I (and maybe several other folk here) would make the trip out to wherever he is to have him do what's needed.

Thanks, John

digesterman · August 09, 2015, 05:16:44 PM

Me for one

luvrbus · August 09, 2015, 05:56:23 PM

You will enjoy the Jake gauge makes life good loosen the adjustment on the housing slide the gauge in tighten the adjustment screw till the Jake gauge stands up and go from there with the final touch quick and easy with the gauge no 2 or 3 feeler gauges making the 0.59

I have the Kastar 3078 go/no set I use also, but I like the Jake gauge best

Iceni John · August 09, 2015, 07:16:47 PM

That sounds easy! I never like to use more than one feeler gauge - too much chance for errors when they're all stacked up. The Jacobs gauge was only $10, NOS from Delaney's Surplus. For the first time I ever do a job I want to have all the right tools - when I become more familiar with jobs I can then use other improvised tools, but that's not a good way to learn how to do it right!

John