Electrical connections

belfert · September 04, 2015, 05:46:58 AM

Quote from: Zephod on September 03, 2015, 08:12:15 PM
Yay. Got a power connector for the buys http://www.ebay.com/itm/271909878145 $15

What are going to do about covering the inlet? Also, I doubt that is designed for exterior use. A Marinco or similar inlet has a locking ring that helps weatherproof things and keeps the full weight of the cord from pulling on the contacts inside the outlet.

These on usually put on the exterior of the bus where they are exposed to the weather.

kyle4501 · September 04, 2015, 07:13:46 AM

I don't like electrical connections exposed to rain, so I didn't want multiple cords if I could avoid it. I also wanted 50A service to my coach.

So, I got one of these for mine. Good quality & flexible. Hard wired to coach & to store it, I just wrap it around the cord brackets in the power entrance compartment. When camping, I only use what I need, but at home I need every inch.

ebay # 271506870461

I also have a 30A extension cord & some adapters, but I hope I never need them.

Do what works best for you. If you are like me, you will want to change/ improve it after a couple of uses. . . . .
Have fun !

LuckyChow · September 04, 2015, 12:20:38 PM

I stopped buying power cords off of Ebay after I bought a 50 amp cord that was so stiff in the winter, I could hardly coil it. The covering was made of some plastic that wasn't very flexible when cold, unlike the cord it was replacing. I can't tell the difference between them in pictures.

Zephod · September 04, 2015, 08:05:50 PM

What I'm doing is getting it sorted out to reregiser the bus as A motorhome. I might just have to build a box to house the socket.

I'm aiming now just to install two 110v sockets - one for the fridge and one for the microwave.

Zephod · September 04, 2015, 08:12:50 PM

I'm aiming for 30 amps but building the system to handle 50 amps. I'll try to sort it so I can run off 15a too.

eagle19952 · September 04, 2015, 08:53:11 PM

Quote from: Zephod on September 04, 2015, 08:12:50 PM
I'm aiming for 30 amps but building the system to handle 50 amps. I'll try to sort it so I can run off 15a too.

just buy an extra female cord cap/plug and use it as a "cover"...

chessie4905 · September 05, 2015, 04:17:17 AM

What make and model bus do you have? You need to list it on your signature.

Oonrahnjay · September 05, 2015, 07:19:33 AM

Quote from: Zephod on September 04, 2015, 08:12:50 PM
I'm aiming for 30 amps but building the system to handle 50 amps. I'll try to sort it so I can run off 15a too.

With most modern inverters, you can set a "maximum input amperage" through the control panel. That way, if you are stuck someplace and the only plug available is 15Amp (like visiting a family member), you can set it for 12Amps (I'm conservative -- I'd always set about 20% below "theoretical") and not take a chance on tripping a breaker. You can't run big A/conditioners or water heater, but you'll have enough power for your fridge and essential things. By "load-shedding", you can run pretty much anything you want to for short periods (i.e. shut off everything else while you run your coffee maker or "The Management" uses her hair dryer -- but get her one with a max of 1200Watts).
The very best is a "load sharing" inverter. If you need 16Amp, it will pull 12Amp off the wire and 4Amp for a short period of time from your battery bank, then recharge the batteries when the load drops.

Zephod · September 05, 2015, 07:24:52 AM

Quote from: Oonrahnjay on September 05, 2015, 07:19:33 AM
With most modern inverters, you can set a "maximum input amperage" through the control panel. That way, if you are stuck someplace and the only plug available is 15Amp (like visiting a family member), you can set it for 12Amps (I'm conservative -- I'd always set about 20% below "theoretical") and not take a chance on tripping a breaker. You can't run big A/conditioners or water heater, but you'll have enough power for your fridge and essential things. By "load-shedding", you can run pretty much anything you want to for short periods (i.e. shut off everything else while you run your coffee maker or "The Management" uses her hair dryer -- but get her one with a max of 1200Watts).
The very best is a "load sharing" inverter. If you need 16Amp, it will pull 12Amp off the wire and 4Amp for a short period of time from your battery bank, then recharge the batteries when the load drops.

Neat! I didn't know such things existed. Now if the same setup could be used to charge the batteries while just the fridge is running, that would be perfect. It'd reduce the need for expensive solar panels.

Zephod · September 05, 2015, 10:59:51 AM

Quote from: eagle19952 on September 04, 2015, 08:53:11 PM
just buy an extra female cord cap/plug and use it as a "cover"...

I blundered and bought a sub panel with no main breaker. Then I realized it was a strength because now I can put a small main breaker box underneath the bus! Bonus its a 2 breaker box so if I put 15A breakers both sides, I switch one off when I'm on a 15a supply.

My internal wiring is all 10-2 which will handle 30A so there's a good margin of safety for my 15A sockets.

Each socket (there are 3) has its own breaker set at 15a. The sockets are 20a. One socket is riveted to the side of the breaker box as that's what the fridge plugs into and the fridge is in front of the sub panel.

There's room on the panel for 8 breakers so plenty space for expansion.

Wiring from the inlet to the underbody breaker will be 55a. Wiring from the underbody main breaker to the sub panel will be 55a too. The underbody wiring will be in steel conduit.

chessie4905 · September 06, 2015, 05:43:29 PM

You might want to consider liquid tite flex conduit. Although more costly, it will be easier for routing and metal conduit does not like water or salt if you get inti it.

Zephod · September 06, 2015, 05:55:16 PM

It's just something squirrel proof that I need. This is what it all looks like so far..

chessie4905 · September 07, 2015, 03:38:23 AM

Make sure to install a connecter where any wires go into box to protect them, although you probably already know that.

Zephod · September 07, 2015, 05:46:32 AM

Quote from: chessie4905 on September 07, 2015, 03:38:23 AM
Make sure to install a connecter where any wires go into box to protect them, although you probably already know that.

I thought about it but don't think they'll get enough jogging to damage them. I might look for one along with cable fasteners on my next trip to Lowe's.

Right now I'm concentrating on getting the electrics to a point where I feel I can apply to reregiser my bus as a motor home.

belfert · September 07, 2015, 06:37:11 AM

You absolutely need a cable clamp going into the panel. Take the 15 minutes to do it right now, or you will eventually wear through the insulation and ground out the positive. You'll be thinking you should have fixed it right in the first place when you realize you have to replace the entire run of wire after it wears through.