Water Manifold System.

[TomC]

I was resting on the bed of the bus when I heard the water pump click on for a short burst every couple of minutes. This means-leak somewhere. I lifted the bed where the water tank, water pumps, water manifold and water heaters are. Sure enough there was one of the fittings leaking. It was for the exterior shower-and since we use it rarely, just turned the ball valve shut-problem solved for the moment.
If you don't have a manifold system-mainly a separate valve for each water use-you run the risk of something blowing and disabling the entire plumbing system. I have been very happy that I spent the time to install the manifold system when I built the bus. Am putting in the same system in the truck. Good Luck, TomC

[Brian Diehl]

Agreed!  I did the same thing and would do it again if I ever had to.

[Lostranger]

When I was assembling my manifold, I posted photos and description on my build thread. I was surprised by several negative comments. The gist, as I remember, was that one does not need a separate valve for each supply branch in such a small space. One commenter said something to the effect that it looked like I was having fun. I believe the implication was that he thought I was "playing" with expensive ball valves.

Our old bus did not have a manifold. I would not consider building any conversion without one. I've had the same experience you did, Tom. A leaky fitting was cycling the pump. A quick quarter turn of the valve and everything else worked perfectly until I could find time for the repair. Also makes it easy to turn off line from pump to house system. Sometimes the pump wants to run while I'm filling the tank. May be a function of shore water pressure. Quick and easy to close pump discharge valve.

Jim H

[belfert]

I used a Manabloc manifold in my bus with home runs to each fixture.  It cost me less than $100.  One problem with a manifold, bus or house, is that you can't take a shower and then get immediate hot water at the faucet.  Each line has to be purged of cold water separately.  For a house I would probably put in a separate manifold in each bathroom.

[pabusnut]

Ditto on the Manabloc.  I also used red and blue PEX for quick ID of lines---and it's purtier!

Steve Toomey

[TomC]

I will be using the Pex Manabloc manifold also. It is so cheap in comparison to brass ball valves. I'll also red for hot, blue for cold, white for warm up lines. What is a warm up line? At the shower, bath sink, kitchen sink, I'll plumb in a T to the hot line with the line leading to a ball valve in a cabinet near the hot line with a return line to the fresh water tank. Then when I want hot water, I just turn on the ball valve, wait until I feel the ball valve get warm, turn it off, then instant hot water. I don't know if I'll even wrap the hot water lines. Then with the return to the fresh water tank, won't waste water warming the lines. Sean had the same thing, except he used electric solenoid valves that needed maintenance periodically. Good Luck, TomC

[Iceni John]

I'm also a firm believer in valved manifolds for everything.   I have an 8-branch for cold water, a 5-branch for hot water, a 5-branch for propane, and every separate DC and AC electrical circuit will have its own breaker.   I made my cold manifold from PVC  -  it's not leaking, but I've noticed some hairline surface cracks in some of its Tees so I'll rebuild it in brass, just like my two other manifolds.   (Besides, brass just looks good!)   McFadden-Dale Industrial Hardware in Santa Ana has low enough prices for their brass plumbing fittings that I can well afford to custom-make each manifold instead of buying ready-made ones.

I have unbroken continuous PEX and CSST lines from the manifolds to each appliance, and this will eliminate the chance of leaks along the way.   The fewer the joints, the better.

John