Clutch adj Eaton autoshift

robertglines1 · December 22, 2014, 01:55:22 PM

reference Eaton medium duty clutch CLMS100. I was under impression that our trans would be heavy duty. After reading this and the key paragraph on page 35 it appears the .500 to .560 is correct but then says: plus additional movement for clutch brake. Sometimes these fine details make my head hurt. Should get my air cyl back from re builder tomorrow so will go for this. So many clutch set ups. This bus building is sometimes challenging. Sharing this info for anyone doing this set up. Bob

muldoonman · December 22, 2014, 04:08:26 PM

Hey Bob, have you started thinking about that 6 speed Allison yet? LOL! You boy's that build and tear into anything impress me in the biggest way. Hat's off.

brmax · December 22, 2014, 04:10:39 PM

You got quite the interesting project there and i thought this may help your adjustments in the future.
For many years i kept 2 worn or smooth hack saw blades taped together this was around .510, and the thickness of 2 seemed to be perfect for the clearance as the slack clearance between yoke fingers and bearing surfaces where you would eventualy put a dab of grease. Not a garuntee but after you mechanicly set it up, you might make something simular for yourself, It was a go to tool for a many dumptrucks i serviced for a good while.
Good day there

ps might be cool to have a cylinder/rod holder that just slipped over your air cylinder rod to check full app or as just a saftey hold device during checks.

Brian Diehl · December 22, 2014, 04:47:40 PM

Bob - mine is set to just under 1/2". No problems for 50,000+ miles. My take on this is that the clearance is not overly critical. Just get it close.

bs4104 · December 22, 2014, 05:27:29 PM

Bob- Just be sure that you have a full stoppage when your on the floor or it will not go in to gear, I had to set mine a @ .45 much like Brian's. Bruce

robertglines1 · December 22, 2014, 05:39:29 PM

The clutch brake is the problem. It will not go into gear unless transmission has stopped rpm (internal). Pg 32 step 4 shows the clutch brake disc being squeezed between case and throwout bearing. Another member and I have similar problem and I used this post to communicate--I do not know how to send pdf to him.. Thanks to all as we figure this out. It's starting to make sense to me. This is completely out of my comfort zone. Talked to Bruce who has been running his for 10 yrs. He has been a tremendous help. Rusty and I arrived the same place in our build at the same time. With same problem. With a Autoshift you use a clutch to start or change directions then the trans does the gear selection from there. Bob

brmax · December 22, 2014, 08:23:35 PM

Bob is it possible to google this as i did earlier - (eaton dana spicer double clutch adjustment)
this seems to come up with a newer pdf than i recall but has the stuff needed and probably same that you mention on page 32 the .010" gauge check, and sorry i cannot seem to copy or paste or send either fwiw
anyway search produces from Eaton CLSM0100-0311.PDF
or use this possibly
http://www.roadranger.com/ecm/idcplg?IdcService=GET_FILE&allowInterrupt=1&RevisionSelectionMethod=LatestReleased&Rendition=Primary&dDocName=RR_CLSM-0200

TomC · December 22, 2014, 10:06:12 PM

The clutch type Autoshift (3 pedals) uses the same clutch as a manual transmission. The manual transmission also has a clutch brake on it so you can put the transmission into gear without grinding. Believe it or not, some truck drivers don't know this fact. First the pedal has to be adjusted, then adjust the clutch brake. Don't adjust the pedal linkage to make the clutch brake work-you'll throw off the free play. It is not as hard as it sounds. Good Luck, TomC

bs4104 · December 23, 2014, 07:12:01 AM

The Clutch brake is not just for the Auto Shift's it's used on most manual truck trans. also.
I was told to used the hinge type brake because in can be changed with out removing the tran. but have not had to change mine so far with 8 years/100K miles on it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=01ZZ820_YM8
Bruce

robertglines1 · December 23, 2014, 08:05:05 AM

That explains/verify allot. I need to measure my clutch brake disc thickness. Without measuring it /as I remember it looks like about .250 thick. Bob

robertglines1 · December 26, 2014, 05:19:25 PM

Amazing what a new piston in a air cyl can change. Need to make final adjustment but IT Works ! Now (with help from members) better understand what is happening. Project 2001 on bus /only 1999 to go. Bob

robertglines1 · January 03, 2015, 12:49:55 PM

Follow up: one thing I did add was a hydraulic stop light switch to trigger air assist cylinder rather than manual activation. A simple electric/air solenoid with the stop light switch to tell it to work when clutch master cyl applies hydraulic pressure to slave cyl --when you release pedal the reverse process is applied. 60 lb air makes a nice pedal touch. Bob

Oonrahnjay · January 03, 2015, 01:06:37 PM

Quote from: robertglines1 on January 03, 2015, 12:49:55 PMFollow up: one thing I did add was a hydraulic stop light switch to trigger air assist cylinder rather than manual activation. A simple electric/air solenoid with the stop light switch to tell it to work when clutch master cyl applies hydraulic pressure to slave cyl --when you release pedal the reverse process is applied. 60 lb air makes a nice pedal touch. Bob

Did you use a quick release valve in the system, Bob?

robertglines1 · January 03, 2015, 02:39:54 PM

The electric air valve dumps when released/power cut from hydraulic stop light switch.I have a manual mechanical over air I was going to use. This just seemed to be simpler. Might prove to be wrong in long run-- so do have plan B. The prevost slave/air combo would have been nice except they jumped from 300 to 485$$ Before I made decision. Bob

Oonrahnjay · January 03, 2015, 03:54:30 PM

Quote from: robertglines1 on January 03, 2015, 02:39:54 PMThe electric air valve dumps when released/power cut from hydraulic stop light switch.I have a manual mechanical over air I was going to use. This just seemed to be simpler. Might prove to be wrong in long run-- so do have plan B. The prevost slave/air combo would have been nice except they jumped from 300 to 485$$ Before I made decision. Bob

Sounds good. A lot of switching valves like that have sorta "fiddly" little interior cavities - they "immediately vent" when they're switched off but sometimes the pressure drop can be slow. With a quick release valve, it's a full release. There were a pair (standard Bendix off-the-shelf parts) installed on the selectable-automatic pneumatic tubing on my British transmission because they wanted to make it impossible for the driver to inadvertently have air applied to two sets of bands at the same time.
But I don't see any need for you to have this in your application. The mechanical part of the installation will have a certain amount of hysteresis which will ease way that it releases the clutch-push and a nice, easy let down from the air is probably a good fit for this. Just wondering whether it was a good idea before but now I've talked myself out of believing that it is.
All your work here sounds like it's come out very well. This 66 year old clutch leg wouldn't want a heavy clutch and it sends congrat to you on a successful conclusion.