Engine start question...

[wg4t50]

watching the 16V-92 tractor startup sure needs more than a fuel dain back fix, from the exhaust, it needs someone who knows how to setup the rack/injectors etc. it ain't making full power with that setup. not real far off, but appears to need a proper touch.
Dave M

[Geom]

Thanks all for the replies. It sounds like this is fairly common behavior for a cold DD during startup. My situation is no where near as pronounced as the one in the first video and the engine starts fine, so I don't think it's a fuel issue. It just runs somewhat rough for a few seconds then runs fine from there.

I would love to get a block heater on this, but the way some of the lines are run (transmission cooler I believe), doesn't allow room to install a block heater. I'm not certain exactly but it had something to do with lack of space to maneuver one in.

I do try not to stand on the starter switch when starting. I let it turn over a couple of times and if it doesn't catch I let it ago, and try again a few seconds later.

For cold starting this engine came with an ether start kit. I'm not particularly fond of using it a whole bunch, but man it really makes a difference in cold starting. You can crank it a bunch of times and get no start, but one puff of ether and it's roaring to go.

I am curious what the general consensus is on using ether.

[Scott & Heather]

Our coach does this too when Cold.


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[yvan]

For mine it starts almost by just looking at the key, but does the loping idle thing for a solid 15-30 seconds if I don't touch the fun pedal. Is that bad?

[luvrbus]

You can adjust the "roll" out of one it doesn't hurt anything so don't worry about it

[Nineforever]

You really shouldn't be using either to start , find away to get a high output block heater your engine will love u for that 

[eagle19952]

i do not understnd the don't use ether argument ...it's been used for eons and many rigs are fitted with devices to do so...
it won't hurt a thing used properly....avoid pre heaters etc.

[luvrbus]

The either capsules I didn't care for but today's starting fluid is not going to hurt one it has very little either 

[Geom]

The either capsules I didn't care for but today's starting fluid is not going to hurt one it has very little either  

This is a "zero start" bottle. It's white and has a flammability rating of 2.1 (I would think pure ether would be higher but I don't know).

It makes a huge difference during start. Like said earlier, I can crank on it repeatedly without the "zero start" (when it's cold) and nada, but one burst (that's all I've ever had to use and I only hit the button once per cranking session) and she's roaring to go.

I just don't want to cause any harm by forcing it to start. So hopefully the zero start is not pure ether and is a more appropriate starting fluid (like you talk about above)

[luvrbus]

That is good starting fluid
60% Ethal ether
30% Heptane  the rest is mineral oil and Carbon Dioxide

Fwiw a block heater will give you a more even cylinder pressure on cold starts and Cold Start will have one that will work some place on that engine they are big into cold weather starting of all different types and methods

good luck

[eagle19952]

if you have a place to put it past the aircleaner WD-40 will work too.
Some Detroits i have worked on had a little snap cover to flip and add ether at the air horn.

[Geom]

That is good starting fluid
60% Ethal ether
30% Heptane  the rest is mineral oil and Carbon Dioxide

Fwiw a block heater will give you a more even cylinder pressure on cold starts and Cold Start will have one that will work some place on that engine they are big into cold weather starting of all different types and methods

good luck

Thanks luvrbus.
Yeah I really want to get a block heater on there. We'll be spending winters in cold Midwest climates for a while to come, so it will definitely be good.
When I take it in for service next, I'll have'em look at it and see what they think about what it would take to work around this line blocking the way issue.

Maybe we'll plan a trip to AZ and swing by your place

[lostagain]

We used to use the capsules. About the size of your thumb. We always had a few kicking around the bottom of our briefcase. Once in a while one would break and make a mess of the paper work in there: M27 forms, time sheets, etc. Ah the memories... -20 or -30 in the dark early morning, looking for an ether pill or two with a flash light on the dash or in your briefcase, and pressing it onto the pin in the cup on the intake horn, with frozen fingers which got even colder, like white with ether on them... Then once the old Detroit fired up, it was all the diesel fumes you could breathe... Now when it is that cold, I don't usually have to start anything... 

JC


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[MightyThor]

If you don't have a port to spray the ether, you can easily add one by drilling a hole in the air intake system and installing one of those threaded tire valve stems with the valve core removed.  spray the spray in the stem, install the cap and start the engine.

[TomC]

When cold starting, everytime you stop to let the starter rest, it is extremely hard for the starter to get the engine turning again compared to letting the starter lope the engine over-it takes very little power to keep the engine turning over compared to stopping it several times. But, on the other hand, continuous starter isn't good either because it doesn't give the compression heat time to soak in. I have found the best is 10 seconds crank, 10 seconds off, etc. Good Luck, TomC