Webasto DBW2010 tip

[Brian Diehl]

I have a late 90's Webasto DBW2010 (45k BTU) that I've been having problems with lately.  I started having problems getting it to light off in 20 degree weather unless I heated up the air in the bay first.  Then I had problems in 30 and even 40 degree temperatures.  So, I found a local guy who would talk to me about them and he recommended I pull it apart and try to run it while watching what happened. 

IMPORTANT:  Point it away from your body and any other objects for at least 4' around as it will shoot out a long arc of flame when running!

Sure enough I found out that the lighter system was working great, but there was no fuel getting to the spark.  In fact, fuel was shooting out in a near perfect stream for about 2 - 3 feet!  It would not light even when I used a lighter to try and get it to light.  I checked my spark gap and alignment using the provide tool and nodda... nothing would work.  I relayed this information on to the tech today and he recommended I replace the nozzle since it appeared to not be atomizing the fuel enough to get it in a state of fumes for ignition.    So, I went up and got a nozzle tonight and put it all back together after aligning the spark system again.  I turned on the Webasto and it ignited immediately!  It was about 25 degrees out and it had no issues lighting off.  YEAH.  I must have just had a worn out nozzle and by getting a new one (turned out to be improved model) I got the fuel atomizing again correctly for proper ignition.  So, now I can remove the kerosene heater back out of the bus and enjoy a nice comfortable and smell free environment for working on my cabinetry again.  Yeehaw!

The new nozzle is rated at .35 gph while my old nozzle was rated at .40 gph.  They are rated for the same btu output.

-Brian

[Paso One]

Great post Brian  I have the same issues with my old DBW 2010  I Have not taken it apart. I borrowed the electronic tester from the local dealer and it tests one circuit at a time and mine indicated No spark so when I take it apart to adjust I 'll change or check the nozzle.  I don't have the gapping tool what Thickness was it??  thks Paul

[Brian Diehl]

Okay, the correct spark alignment is ~something~ like this:

The tips of the two electrodes stick out 3/32" (in the same horizontal plane) past the tip of the nozzle and they are about 1/4" above the top of the nozzle.  The electrodes are about 1/4" apart from each other.  The little gap setting tool makes it easy as it just slides over the nozzle and if aligned the electrode tips slip right into notchs in the tool.