Recovering From Dirty Oil

[NutherNewbie]

The 6-71 I'm working on has had poor maintenance.  The previous owner isn't available and no records came with the bus.  The bus was last licensed in 2009.  The PO's son was sure the engine had been rebuilt in the sorta recent past, and he seemed like a competent and trustworthy person (but no info was available).

I've only run it once for 15 minutes, then took an oil sample.  The analysis showed "elevated levels of Silicon and Aluminum ... and wear metals".  One oil bath air cleaner
had a bit of dirty oil in the bottom, the second had some oily clumps of dirt, and the third is rusted in place and I haven't been able to free it up yet.  The bus was in AZ every winter, the engine's covered with dirt and grit, and it sounds like a lot of dirt got sucked into the engine.

I drained the oil with the engine cold, not wanting to run it again with the dirty oil, and let it drain for a couple days.  The drain plug magnet is covered with metallic powder and lots of sharp shards of metal, 1/16" to 1/8" long.

I've got 7 gallons of 40wt Delo 100 and a NAPA (Wix) oil filter, but thought I'd ask the experts before using it.

I'm new to diesel engines.  What's the best thing to do?  Run the engine with cheap oil and a Fram filter for a bit, then change both?  Put the Delo 100  and Wix filter in and just change the filter again after running the engine for a bit?  Fill the engine with kerosene and run the engine for 5 minutes then drain and fill with oil?  Or

In about 2 weeks I'll need to drive the bus 80 miles to a new storage spot.  I'd really appreciate any good advice, and sorry for the long post!

Thanks,
Doug

[luvrbus]

I would go to tractor supply and buy their house brand 40w it's a lot cheaper than 100 drive it the 80 miles sounds like you are going to need some engine work the aluminum is probably coming from the blower or pistons, the metal shard bad news that will be the lower end bearings and the silicon is drop out from the wrong antifreeze and never being changed, gaskets,sealer or a bad head 

good luck

[TomC]

As Clifford said, with the metal, you'll probably need an engine overhaul. If you'll be keeping the bus for a while, having the engine overhauled will be peace of mind. Not cheap, but cheaper then a new engine. Good Luck, TomC

[bevans6]

I've never had an engine with metal in the oil so bad you can see it do anything but get rebuilt.  They never somehow come back to life.  In your case what I would do is put the cheapest 15W40 you can find in it, get the batteries nice and freshly charged and spin it on the starter for 10 minutes, drain that and put some SAE 40 or even 50 in it for the 80 mile drive.  And I would buy Coachnet before I left.

Brian

[chessie4905]

   Put the cheaper oil and filter on it and run it. They are pretty durable, even in crappy condition. See how it does, since you are only going to park it again for who knows how long before you really plan to run it regularly. Watch your temps and run it somewhat easy, watching gages. not lugging it nor flat out against the governor.

[NutherNewbie]

Thank you all for your opinions.

I've read that 6-71's (and Detroit 2 Strokes in general?) can take a lot of abuse, so with some luck this engine will run okay for a while longer.  I'll fill it with cheap oil and carefully drive it to the new storage spot then drain the oil and see what it looks like.

I have some money in savings so can afford to rebuild this one or buy a good used engine, if this one goes out quickly.

I'll try to remember to update this thread a few weeks from now.

Doug

PS  I'll be looking into Coachnet soon 

[Oonrahnjay]

    I wish you the best of luck, but you're not recovering from dirty oil, you're trying to recover from a damaged engine.  Reminds me of when I worked in a funeral home when I was in high school -- when we were moving caskets, the owner made us cover the corners with out hands (we had to have one person at the front and rear).  He'd tell us "I'm not worried about the skin on your knuckles, that will grow back; the paint on that corner won't!"  Unfortunately, damaged engines won't grow back, either.
    Here's hoping you can get the miles you need out of it (and running it hurt doesn't extend the damage and make whatever repair that's needed more expensive).
    Unfortunately, you're just in a bad place.   Bruce H   NC   USA

[luvrbus]

I would pull the pan and change out the bearing it is not that big of a deal.The 6-71 are tough but the thrust washers wear and you get to much end play they break the crankshaft plus parts are not that expensive for the lower end less than a 100 bucks for some peace of mind

good luck

[lostagain]

I don't get the "run cheap oil in it for now" thing. Why go from bad to worse? Up around here, a pail of Wall Mart 40W CF2 is as good as any and about the same price as the 15W40 next to it.

JC

[luvrbus]

I wouldn't run the 15/40 myself the cheaper 40w I would, I was in Tractor Supply yesterday they had the old formula Shell Rottela T1 40 w on close out for 9.98 a gal thats pretty cheap oil

[bevans6]

My theory was put cheap and thin oil in and not run it, but crank it to flush out whatever can be flushed out.  But I have changed my thoughts to be in line with Clifford - pull the pan and have a look-see.  Also pull an air box cover off and look in there.  My old engine was run with dry oil-bath filters, and the dust put oily, gritty sludge almost 1/4" deep on the floor of the air box.

Brian

[Seangie]

Brian - I used to do that with my vehicles back in the day. Dump the oil, run tranny fluid in it for about 5 minutes...dont even let it get warm.  Then dump that and refil with fresh oil.  I learned that from a pit crew chief back in college.  He said they do it on the race cars all the time (we are talking short track back country here...not nascar) My oil was always clean when I changed it.  1st couple times the tranny fluid came out blacker than the oil.  Not sure how that would work on Detroits.  I know my ford explorer got over 200k miles with the 4.0 engine.

If that works on the Detroits Id do it in a heartbeat.

-Sean

Fulltiming somewhere in the USA
1984 Eagle 10S
www.herdofturtles.org

[HB of CJ]

Lots of good info on how to get the old girl home.  How about turning a negative into a positive.  Sounds like at least the engine is going to require a complete tear down and look see?  Anybody who could show or help you on pulling that mighty Detroit out of your new Bus Conversion and take it all apart for a complete inspection?

I find such stuff fun, but then I am crazy.  You might find that all the Detroit needs are new bearings, seals, blower seals, gaskets, rings, a valve job and replacement injectors.  A "Freshening".  Same thing with the rest of the Bus Conversion.  If you are willing to learn and do the work yourself, you might just discover a new hobby.

HB of CJ (old coot)

[uncle ned]

On my first 04 on the first trip out. I was going to bike week in Daytona with a group.

My old 04 started to heat and I had to stop often to put water in her.

Made it there just fine. Pulled the dip stick out and water ran out.

removed the oil plug and let it drain all week. Then filled it back up and fired the old girl up and drove her home.

She got a new head and a set of bearings and she still runs fine when i driver her.
Just prefer the auto in Huggy.

I would fill her up with fresh oil and take off.

uncle ned