BATTERY DOOR HINGE

[george_barb]

Where can I get one?  In Zephyrhills, Florida for another month.  Then, how to get it installed?  Have an MCI 9.

Thanks for any input.  George

[Lin]

Assuming yours is like my 5a that uses the same hinge as the bay doors, if you want to go with the rubber original call Luke at US Coach (888 262-2434).  If you want to switch over to stainless steel, call Ed Gallant.

[Frank @ TX]

Hi George ,
The rubber hinge is easy to install.
Take the old rubber part out or the channel in the door.
Also clean up the alun part mounted to the bus.
Clean up the channels very good.
Lube up the channel with WD40 and push/pull it into the channel.
Luke has the right part.
About every third year I have to do this , it's not so bad.
Frank

[lvmci]

Hi George, like Lin & Frank said, only I spray wd40 or silicone spray when removing old one too. Some people clamp the channel down, open this up for a clean slide out, the rubber hinge is shapped like an I beam, I think the more shallow end faces outwards, are you sure its a rubber hinge on a 9? Call Luke, he knows! Lvmci...

[RJ]

WD-40, being a petroleum product, will eat away at the door hinge rubber, causing an early failure.

Far better to use liquid dishwashing soap (keep it wet), the yellow stuff electrician's use for pulling wire, or even K-Y Jelly (of which you can have fun with the left over!)

Larger portion of the "I" goes on the body.

Easily done, best with a helper.  Slide hinge material onto coach first, then, holding door horizontal to the ground, slide on door.  Keep the lube wet while doing so!

As others have said, give Luke a call for the hinge material. 1-888-262-2434.

FWIW & HTH. . .

[Lin]

I have done this with the bay doors several times alone. It is not hard.  I do not know if it would be different on a different model.  What I do on my 5a is first, with the bay door closed use a razor knife to slit the hinge in half.  The door tilts out but does not fall.  Then I lift the handle which releases the door and put it on the ground.  Next I unscrew the molding holding the upper portion of the rubber.  It is usually longer than the door, but that does not matter.  There are screws with large heads at intervals.  Usually, the rubber pieces are easily pulled from the channels.  I then take a wire brush and clean the channel well of all dirt and corrosion.  Next, slip the rubber into either the door or molding channel.  Whichever you do, you then slip the other channel onto the other side of the molding.  Most times, it does not require any lubrication.  Of course, since we live in a desert, there might not be as much corrosion as some others may have.  Anyway, with the rubber attached to both pieces, I lift the door back into place and close the lock handle.  Now, simply slide the molding into its proper position and put the screws back.  It's about a half hour job.

Be sure to remove any attachments that there might be from the door to the bus (like air shocks or holders) first.  Then put them back when everything else is done.

The battery compartment door is much easier since it is so light.

[Van]

I like RJ's KY jelly idea    Vegetable oil will work as well 

[Lin]

Sorry Van, vegetable oil breaks down rubber.

[Van]

Damn those Veggies!

[Dave5Cs]

Van just doesn't t want to give up the KY

Dave5Cs from Galaxy S III

[Van]

Dave. Seems to me I've heard Bob Evans ( BOTN) mention using "WEASEL SNOT" quite a few times in past posts, Anyone got a weasel (NO This Is Not a Political Jab! )  they would consider loaning out? LOL! 

[Jriddle]

Dave. Seems to me I've heard Bob Evans ( BOTN) mention using "WEASEL SNOT" quite a few times in past posts, Anyone got a weasel (NO This Is Not a Political Jab! )  they would consider loaning out? LOL! 

Van
Weasel snot is probably easier to get than Monkey Piss. LOL

John

[bobofthenorth]

Dave. Seems to me I've heard Bob Evans ( BOTN) mention using "WEASEL SNOT" quite a few times in past posts, Anyone got a weasel (NO This Is Not a Political Jab! )  they would consider loaning out? LOL! 

Actually my preferred expression is "weasel piss" which, when you think about it, makes it a pretty rare commodity - they're a very small animal after all.  Lately its been hard to get genuine weasel piss, what with PETA and other do gooders interfering with the free flow of commerce in rodent urine so I have been settling for PBlaster.  Its almost as good.

As far as lubrication for rubber hinges I would go with dish soap.  And as someone else has posted, clean the tracks out well before starting reassembly.  I like the idea of cutting the old key as a starting point but often by the time I get around to changing mine they are so rotten that they more or less fall apart anyway.

[Don4107]

A hint from Master Luke.  Cut a couple inch long piece of the new hinge and use it as a test sliding it through both hinges until it will slide easily.  One of my hinge channels was dinged and would never have worked until I fixed it.  Use no petroleum products. 

On our 5B I loosened the hinge screws from the body, more at the starting end so there is a slight angle away from the body.  Installed the hinge in one side with set screws or it will bunch up. Used a 2x4 cut to the right length to help support the door and slid them on.

Good luck

Don

[luvrbus]

For lube I use Murphy's tire mounting soap on the rubber hinges