Need some ideas for eliminating side windows.

[Mex-Busnut]

Dear Friends,

I know this is a controversial subject to some, but several of my sliding passenger windows are in real bad shape, as far as hardware is concerned. I am planning on eliminating two on the driver's side, which would be blocked anyway by the kitchen and shower/toilet area, and one on the curb side, which would be covered by the fridge and pantry and a closet.

My thinking is that these poorly-functioning windows will be sources for water leaks when it rains, if I leave them there, and may be hard to repair when needed.

I am planning on adding also at least one structural brace in the center of each window hole and then cover the outside with sheet metal. This  would require insulating the inside. I also plan on doing the best possible job of sealing them from rain.

What grade of metal sheets do you use? #16?

I am open to any other tips or ideas.

Thanks in advance!

[robertglines1]

I use 16 ga steel   many use alum.  Your choice as each has it's plus and -   Bob

[bevans6]

keeping in mind that you are basically covering up a hole in the side of the bus, structure is not an issue.  you need to worry more about fastening it to the side of the original construction in a way that is sound, won't corrode, and won't leak.  16 ga steel is pretty heavy but stands alone well, needs little reinforcement.  16 ga aluminium is much the same but has different corrosion issues.  Stainless steel is interesting but heavy and expensive, fiberglass is light and perhaps harder to fasten...  Lots of choices, your bus and your vision of it will guide you.

Brian

[Oonrahnjay]

I use 16 ga steel   many use alum.  Your choice as each has it's plus and -   Bob 

     Yeah.  What metal are your window frames and supporting structure made from?  Mine is all aluminium (at least all the metal that sheet metal would touch) so I used alum sheet.  If you're joining to a lot of steel, then sheet steel would probably work best.  Also, my bus is "different" so I can't give you much info on the best way to attach the sheet metal.

[Mex-Busnut]

Thanks, guys!

The walls and structure at the window level are all steel. It is only stainless under the window level.

Bruce: Is your bus right-hand drive? If so, it must be hard to drive in the U. S.!

[Lin]

I have not done this particular job, but I seem to remember something about heating the metal before fastening it to help avoid bowing.

[Oonrahnjay]

(snip) Bruce: Is your bus right-hand drive? If so, it must be hard to drive in the U. S.! 

    Yeah, my bus is RHD but it's not particularly hard to drive.  I like being able to lean out the window and talk to wimmins on the sidewalk!

[TomC]

I was lucky with my bus-from the outside edge of the inside window flange to the outside edge of the bus was exactly 1.5".  I cut two 3/4" pieces of plywood-the outer slightly larger then the inside to fit inside the window frame.  The inside piece I screwed to the inside window flange, and the outside piece I glued and screwed to the inside piece.  Since my bus is skinned in .060" aluminum, I had the sheets cut to my dimensions then glued (with Dupont spray 90 contact cement) the aluminum skin to the plywood.  Then used pop rivets to duplicate the pattern already on the outside skin (mostly for looks).  Has held up without coming loose (two large and one small window) for 16 years.  Then I screwed 1x2 fir strips horizontally to the inside of the plywood, had the spray insulation installed, then 1/4" plywood over that.  After the spray foam was installed, you couldn't tell where the windows had been.  Good Luck, TomC