mc9 back wall framing
 

mc9 back wall framing

Started by mike802, July 03, 2011, 01:57:29 PM

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mike802

Today I finally finished insulating the side walls on the mc9.  I have some video to show everybody, but I have to wait for my son to put it all together.  In the mean time I will be starting on the rear wall.  Today my wife and I pulled out the AC and removed the fiberglass wall panel and all the old fiberglass insulation.  I did a search trying to find some examples of what others have done in this area without much success.  Anyone have any pictures or descriptions of just how they went about framing and insulating the back wall? 
Mike
1983 MCI MC9
Vermont

mike802

I went ahead and started working on the back wall, I used 2x3 lumber.  Framed it off by running 2x3's up the side wall, one across the top and the studs down to the back sheet metal 16 inch on center. Screwed everything together and screwed the studs into the sheet metal.  I then made relief cuts in a 2x3 so it would bend to the ceiling contour, screwed it to the ceiling framing and added some short studs to tie it all into the frame work.  I then installed 2" pink board, I have room for another 1/2 inch and will add it later.  Right now I am leaving it all removable to I can get access to install the back up camera.  I then cut out and installed 1/2'' plywood.  I don't know if this what others do, but It is what I did and it all was sturdy, the only thing I think I will change is when I install the back up camera I will add some strapping behind the wall studs just to make sure the pink board does not vibrate out from between the studs, back there with all the engine vibrations going on. If anyone has some ideas or tips I am all ears?  I got some video, will be posting it soon, I hope.
Mike
1983 MCI MC9
Vermont

Melbo

Mike

Do you have a cap or roof raise??  My bus had a roof raise and rear cap so it is not anywhere near stock framing BUT what I did is frame out a spell and then had the bus spray foamed and installed "Boxes" through the framing and made them into closets with doors. So my framing was about 14 to 16 inches out from the back just even with the fan housing and pretty much straight up and down. Then the spray foam was put in and the boxes that are now closets are flush with the inside of the fan compartment.

I hope this makes sense

Melbo
If it won't go FORCE it ---- if it breaks it needed to be replaced anyway
Albuquerque, NM   MC8 L10 Cummins ZF

mike802

Yea Melbo, I think I know what you are talking about.  My bus is stock without a roof raise, but their is a lot of room behind the wall I just studded up.  I did not go right straight up from the back seat platform, instead I went straight up from about  20" up, so my back wall has a slight kick out, but not as much a it did in stock form.  I was thinking of a way to use that extra space, but I haven't come up with an idea that works with my floor plan arrangement. you sure could pack in a lot of foam back there.
Mike
1983 MCI MC9
Vermont

Ralph7

        1st took down roof, to the fiber glass, added 1x3  red oak stringers lenght of bus 4in. wide cross bows of 1/4 plywoood ,not all the way the sides. On walls 1in. styro n back slant n "step" -- made certain ALL accesss holes are openable! covered all with 3/8 or 1/2 plywood.. over head I cut a 3/4 in. x4x8 sheet of plywood---now I cut a 60in. wide at the bottom went straight up did a radius with a 5 gallon bucket  bottom, and at sides cut openings for small closets (no need to frame) for doors..... added cleats to walls and roof,,,,,,bottom of ply is about 22in. from slanted back,,,,,,,,,Oh top center of ply is about 14in. cut 2 holes bout 24in. long with bout 6in. between those openins......rounded top of ply to fit roof line....... made cleats on ply and have 3piece foor up there. ....... the top shelf(where water tanh was I left the up/down brace in place-------on my bus I used 1/2in ply, 18in wide with a 3in. wide face red oak board ( keeps up there n reinforces shelf......... on step n front of step with 1in. styro an 1/2in ply then added 2x8 primiter for bed but on step I made a 10in. wide red oak shelf full width of bus....... made end tables on each side with both doors n removable tops.....tables are super long front to back,????????? I would try to show pictures BUT my puter skills need help which I have had but memory slow

travelingfools

Mike,

Any pics of the back wall removal ?
John P, Lewiston NY   1987 MC 9 ...ex NJT

mike802

Sorry John, my wife took it out while I was installing the side wall panels.  It was just a molded fiberglass panel held in with rivets.  She drilled out the rivets and it came right off, then she removed the screws that held in a AC unit and we both carried it out.  I do have some video of the wall after the panel was removed, including the progress of framing, insulating and installing plywood.  As soon as my son edits it for me I will post it.
Mike
1983 MCI MC9
Vermont

travelingfools

K...thanks. Thats the only part of my bus I hadn't planned on doing anything with yet. Im sure a lot of heat and noise migrate into the bus from there while Im going down the road. I guess I should look into pulling it and replacing it. I was originally planning on framing over it.
John P, Lewiston NY   1987 MC 9 ...ex NJT

BJ

gentlemen,  when adding that back wall "do not seal off or enclose the floor excess to the generator, etc.. seen this happen with much regret later.

Melbo

The rear access panels are important when you need to replace the air compressor on an 8V71 and for something else I forget.  I had an L10 put in and everything is MUCH easier to reach now but I still left both access  panels however don't count on them being sealed with normal methods. I used a silicone and latex caulk to seal the edges with a thin film and then covered with metal duct tape. If you have any infiltration from the engine compartment it is easy to see the black residue.

HTH

YMMV

Melbo
If it won't go FORCE it ---- if it breaks it needed to be replaced anyway
Albuquerque, NM   MC8 L10 Cummins ZF

jmblake

I don't have any pictures of how I framed it up, Just of the finished area but my headboard is the wall of the radiator and fan housing then it steps back for a shelf and the mirror is hinged and there is about 8"-10" of space behind it where I can get to the rear lighting and backup camera wiring. Then the bed and night stands cover the first hump in the floor and the bed hinges up to get access to the service holes in the floor. Jason


mike802

Wow Jason, that looks great.  Cant imagine mine looking that good at this point, I like the hinged mirror idea for access to the wiring.  I will have to change my stud work, but I think it will be worth it at this point to incorporate something similar in my bus.  what did you do for insulation behind the mirror?
Mike
1983 MCI MC9
Vermont

jmblake

Thanks Mike, We had our hole bus spray foamed and that made everything realy tight and sound. Jason