Any ideas?

[ruthi]

The new bus has been doing great. We were on the road for a long time, doing well. Today, went to head out again, and the bus is running hot. It stopped once, but we unloaded the toad, and made it to our store, but still running hotter than normal. All the hoses are ok, and the fan is turning ok. Maybe the radiator is clogged? Any thing else we need to ck? Thanks

[Dave5Cs]

Are your thermostats stuck closed or maybe one of them? Check for hot spots with heat gun. Is your water pump moving water or not?

Dave

[robertglines1]

first time out in really hot weather?  water level?

[luvrbus]

What are you calling hot the 60 series usually run around 200 or 205 for the norm,check the turbo for boost pressure low turbo boost will make a 60 series run hot   

good luck

[demodriver]

Check the hoses on your turbo and intercooler if applicable. 

Im not a detroit guy but love my cummins and have had a intercooler hose cause me problems before.

Good luck!

[ruthi]

Thanks for all the ideas. Working tonight, will ck out later. It was running 220 to 230.

[rv_safetyman]

Ruthi, I was going to start a thread the other day to ask if you guys were still on the face of this earth .  Glad to hear that things are going well.

As I recall, you had heating problems when you left Arcadia.  What did you do to get past that problem?

Next, I am embarrassed to ask what you are using for a temperature gauge.  I can't recall if I sold you a SilverLeaf or not.  If you have the SilverLeaf, it is giving you good data.

If you only have a dash gauge, I would check to make sure that it is correct and not giving you a bad reading.  

Many buses have a mechanical gauge in engine compartment.  If you do, check it against the dash gauge.

Next, get yourself an infrared gun and start exploring.  First look at the radiator and do a sweep to make sure that it does not have any "cool" spots.  Check inlet and outlet temperatures to make sure you are getting a good temperature drop.  Infrared guns don't give you accurate absolute temperatures (main factor is emissivity issues), but it will give you good relative data and will be fairly accurate on the radiator since it is a "black body".

Jim

[rv_safetyman]

Ruthi, your reply came in while I was typing mine.

I really do not think your engine is getting to 230*.  The ECM would shut the engine down before it got that hot.

Sure sounds like you may have a gauge problem.

Jim

[robertglines1]

original post said it shut down!  so we assume it did either over heat or sensor thought it did.Then unhooked toad and continued on but still running hot. Maybe seals around rad ?

[luvrbus]

Jim, they have a ProDriver should be fairly accurate temperature reading

good luck

[rv_safetyman]

Clifford, the ProDriver should give them the temperature that the DDEC sensor is seeing and, as you point out, should be accurate and should be what the ECM uses as input to control functions and shut the engine down.

That said, I am confused.  I thought that the ECM would shut the engine off at something like 220 or 225.  Anyone know what the shutdown temperature is for ddec?

It will be interesting to see what they did to resolve the problem earlier this year.

Jim

[luvrbus]

Overheat code is at 217 F shutdown is 220 F

good luck

[rv_safetyman]

Ruthi, when you get a chance, would you update us on what you found?  I would like to store this problem and your findings in my "data bank"

Thanks

Jim

[James77MCI8]

Do not forget about a restricted air intake. Does the stack have a bird screen on it?

[robertglines1]

bump