Battery Relocation?

[mcidave]

I would like to relocate the batteries to the engine compartment while keeping the other batteries in the stock battery compartment for house batteries and thus a feed to the inverter due to the 270 amps coming from the engine generator feeding that compartment...
My plan is to increase the power to the starter by relocating the batteries closer to the engine than stock. Also, I want to use the 50D generator amps to power a 24v inverter located in another compartment from the existing battery compartment.  The battery disconnect is in the existing battery compartment where I guess I will have house the inverter battery bank.  Do I even need a battery bank if I am only using the inverter while running down the road A/C?  Use as much of the existing stock wiring as I can to keep cost down and still separate the batteries from the inverter for safety.
Does anyone have a diagram for me to effectively accomplish this easily?

Thanks

[jjrbus]

Unless something has changed, yes you need batteries with an inverter. Everyone doing a conversion does it uniquely, so you may have a problem finding a schematic. Might want to rephrase your question.   HTH   JIm

[FloridaCliff]

Dave,

I have done , sort of what you are planning.

I use the old main disconnect to separate the house system from the start batteries.

Both systems are in parallel from the 50DN and the main disconnect is only put in the OFF position when dry camping.

Everything but the starter runs off of the house side, and they can be put together if needed by the disconnect.

There are fuses in line to protect either battery set from a short or massive overload.

Cliff

[mcidave]

Thanks that info is what I needed.

[bevans6]

While I left my start batteries where they are, I did connect my house batteries to the DN50 and to an inverter.  If you do move your start batteries, the stock battery compartment is an ideal place to put the house batteries.  You should have a suitable size of battery connected to your inverter along with the DN50, only because the batteries can be used to maintain inverter function if the DN50 output is interrupted for some reason (engine stalls, low current at idle, that sort of thing).  You can use the start batteries for that purpose, you don't need separate house batteries.  The reason most people add separate house batteries is to be able to use the inverter when the engine is off, and to make sure the start batteries aren't drained when the inverter is in use.

My own setup uses a 24v inverter to run my rooftop AC unit while driving.  I have a cross-tie cable from the start batteries (actually I used the stock cross-tie on the MCI to the AC electrical panel in the front bay) that I have fused at an appropriate level for that cable size.  I have the stock battery disconnect switch to disconnect the start batteries, and I have another disconnect switch that can disconnect the house batteries from the inverter, or tie the house system and the inverter to the start batteries and the DN50.  A better approach will be to upgrade that with solenoids for automatic switching, but I haven't done that yet.  It all works perfectly and powers my AC unit with no issues at all.  I pull 12v from the center tap of the house batteries with a Vanner.

Brian

[Dave5Cs]

Mine are in the back  right inside the side door 4 on a rack up high enough to put a few gallons of antifreeze and oil under them protected by sheet steel.

Dave

[Ed Hackenbruch]

Ok, bear with me here as electricity is not my forte.   The idea is to move the batteries back to the engine area to provide more power to the starter. Makes sense at first glance, however.......doesn't the juice now have to travel from the back up to the switch and then back to the starter now? Instead of traveling only 35-40 some feet doesn't it now have to travel twice as far as before?  Seems to me like you would have less starting power not more. 

[rwc]

No Twice the distance gives the electrons longer to build up speed so they hit the starter at higher velocity. This in turn spins the started twice as fast.   Devil made me do it. Rod

[bevans6]

If you move the batteries you should move the disconnect switch too.  The wiring should be battery positive to disconnect switch to starter motor stud on the firewall to starter motor.  The alternator feed comes over to the starter motor stud on the firewall.

Brian

[Ed Hackenbruch]

Rod,.......I like it!!!!

[FloridaCliff]

Ok, bear with me here as electricity is not my forte.   The idea is to move the batteries back to the engine area to provide more power to the starter. Makes sense at first glance, however.......doesn't the juice now have to travel from the back up to the switch and then back to the starter now? Instead of traveling only 35-40 some feet doesn't it now have to travel twice as far as before?  Seems to me like you would have less starting power not more. 

The battery switch is the solenoid on the starter, so the distance is decreased.  The starter button or key just engages the solenoid.

Cliff

[belfert]

Why did MCI put the batteries so far from the engine anyhow?  It would seem to be better for the starter to have the batteries at the engine.  Dina puts the batteries immediately in front of the engine behind the tag axle.

[Ed Hackenbruch]

Ahhhh, got it Cliff, thanks.       I still like Rod's answer though