Grab bars - kinda OT
 

Grab bars - kinda OT

Started by happycamperbrat, December 01, 2010, 09:30:41 AM

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happycamperbrat

I need to install some grab bars in a shower that is in my mobile home (not motor home, hence the OT part). The shower is all one piece fiberglass. The question for you gurus is after I find the stud in the wall and mount the grab bar and fasten it down, will the fiberglass crack and leak there? Will just a washer to distribute the force of tightening the fastener and then pulling on it when it use be enough? It doesn't seem to me that it would be, but I haven't done this type of thing before and would appreciate some insight. Thanks!
The Little GTO is a 102" wide and 40' long 1983 GMC RTS II and my name is Teresa in case I forgot to sign my post

Jeremy

It's a length-of-string question (how thick is the fibreglass? how much force?), but the way to avoid the problem altogether would be to use a spacer on the bolt or screw, to avoid the tightening force from squashing the fibreglass in the first place.

The spacer could be something like a small-but-thick washer, or simply a small off-cut of any piece of material which you have lying around which happens to be the same thickness as the fibreglass, or a fraction thicker. Ideally the spacer wants to be as small as possible, as the hole in the fibreglass needs to be big enough for the spacer to fit within it - so that when the bolt or screw is tightened, the tightening force goes on to the spacer itself, and not the fibreglass around it. Make sure that you use plenty of sealant when assembling everything, and you should be fine.

Jeremy
A shameless plug for my business - visit www.magazineexchange.co.uk for back issue magazines - thousands of titles covering cars, motorbikes, aircraft, railways, boats, modelling etc. You'll find lots of interest, although not much covering American buses sadly.

KozyCade

First you'll have to precisely locate the vertical studs. Most grab bars have three screw holes in each mounting flange, but you'll only be able to anchor two of the three screws into a typical 1-1/2 in. wide stud. When you've located what you believe to be the center of the studs, confirm the stud locations and find both edges by probing with a nail above the tub enclosure and using a level to extend the edges where you need to drill. Mark the studs and grab bar mounting holes. Then drill a 1/8-in. hole at one of the marks located over a stud. If you miss the stud, adjust the grab bar location accordingly and drill new holes. In most cases, the unused hole will be covered by the mounting plate on the grab bar. Be sure to caulk the back of the grab bar mounting flange with tub-and-tile adhesive or silicone caulk.

Use a plastic anchor for the third screw. As long as these screws penetrate at least an inch into sound wood, the grab bar will meet or exceed the 250-lb. load rating required by the government for public buildings. More important, it will be plenty strong to support you even in a fall. Even a solidly anchored grab bar is useless if it's in the wrong place. What location is best depends on the particular situation. If you're installing the bars for a person with a disability or injury, have this person help you decide which location will be most helpful.

Place an 18-in. to 24-in. long bar vertically at the tub edge to assist in getting in and out of the tub. The bottom of the bar should be 32 to 38 in. above the floor. Position the bar so it can be anchored to a wall stud. Mount a bar at an angle between two wall studs on the long back wall of the tub. The bottom of the bar should be about 6 to 10 in. above the top of the tub. For studs 16 in. apart, a 24-in. long bar provides a nice angle. A person can use this grab bar to help lower himself and get up again. If this bar will be used primarily by a person sitting in a bath chair, raise the bottom to about 18 in. above the tub. Mount a bar horizontally about 36 in. to 38 in. above the bottom of the tub as a convenient handhold while showering.
Most importantly, use the special anchoring hardware for hollow backer tub enclosures. The Solid Mount solves the fiberglass shower problem. Fiberglass tub and shower enclosures present a unique challenge. You must mount the grab bar to a stud, but the space between the stud and fiberglass must also be filled with something or the fiberglass will bend as you tighten the mounting screws. These anchor systems will support the grab bar in spite of the void behind the enclosure.

Hope this helps.

Tenor

I have seen some medical supply places selling suction cup grab bars that do a great job if you have a smooth surface vs say small tile.  FWIW

Glenn
Glenn Williams
Lansing, MI
www.tenorclock@gmail.com
2001 MCI D4500
Series 60 Detroit Diesel
4 speed Spicer

Dave5Cs

Teresa;

Just make sure there is a solid surface to bolt to such as a stud and if you can still get inside the wall( not you but to put something in it (:>}) Put two pieces of 2X10 or 6 between the studs so it is flat to the back of the surrounds for screw or bolt backing. then you can put them anywhere you need. She will thank you later for it!

Dave
"Perfect Frequency"1979 MCI MC5Cs 6V-71,644MT Allison.
2001 Jeep Cherokee Sport 60th Anniversary edition.
1998 Jeep TJ ,(Gone)
Somewhere in the USA fulltiming.

Brassman

There is a product made for mounting grab bars to a fiberglass shower stall. You use a hole saw, insert the thing, tighten a few screws, and that's it. It's gasketed for water proofing.

I went to Lowes, and it is there in the grab bar section.

Suction cup bars are considered a no-no in the home care business.

Runcutter

Teresa, this one got me curious, so I tried some Google search terms.  Found this device, which may help.  It looks like, essentially, a stand-off that fills the space between the stud and the fiberglas.  Looks like $30/set, perhaps a bit pricy for a couple of pieces of plastic, but also looks like quite a time saver.  You still have to find studs, and size the bar so it fits between studs - but that should be easy if you slant the bar.

http://www.backtobasics.net/faq.htm

Arthur
Arthur Gaudet    Carrollton (Dallas area) Texas 
Former owner of a 1968 PD-4107

Working in the bus industry provides us a great opportunity - to be of service to others

happycamperbrat

Thank you gentlemen. Unfortunately the person I was going to install this for had to go to the hospital today, and it doesnt look very promising that she will be coming out. Im sorry.
The Little GTO is a 102" wide and 40' long 1983 GMC RTS II and my name is Teresa in case I forgot to sign my post

cody

Teresa, keep us informed on her progress, I know she is a very special person and we'll keep her in our prayers.  One thing to concider in regards to the mounting of the bar, when you drill and insert the screws make sure they are off center from each other, they'll be stronger if they arn't in the same grain band, sometimes one screw will send a small crack for a short distance along the grain of the wood, you don't want that crack to meet and weaken the hold of the next screw.  Again keep us informed please and if we can do anything, let us know.